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Binding on v-neckline
How to manage the tip of the v using a coverstitch and binder?
purplebouquet
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purplebouquet
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Date: 10/13/08 9:13 AM

Dear all,

I have several RTW knit tops with v-necklines that have binding attached to the neckline, applied with the binder attachment of a coverlock machine.

I want to try that, but don't know how to manage the tip of the V? How do I deal with that acute angle using the binder attachment for the binding on my coverlock machine? Can somebody share this technique?

Thank you.

Claudia

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to purplebouquet


Date: 10/13/08 9:39 AM

Take a look at Debbie Cook's website, because I know that she coverstitches her bindings and she has done v necks. here Look at her coverstitch tutorials.
-- Edited on 10/13/08 9:40 AM --

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purplebouquet
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purplebouquet
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In reply to Nancy K


Date: 10/15/08 11:51 AM

Thanks for the link. I knew about Debbie's tutorials, but not her blog. What a great read, I've bookmarked it.

Unfortunately, neither one offers advice of how to bind a V-neck line (or I didnt' search it enough), so I'd still welcome additional input.

Claudia

JudyP
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JudyP
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Date: 10/18/08 12:24 PM

I have used my coverstitch on several v-necks.
What I do is stitch from the back of the neckline stopping as close to the point of the v as possible. I usually turn the wheel by hand for the last 2 or 3 stitches. I then take the garment out of the machine leaving long thread tails( I use Debbie Cook's method of ending a coverstitch). Then I hand sew the last few stitches at the point of the v using the thread tails.

I have never seen any other way to do this and I've looked.

I just realized that you are using a binder attachment that I do not have or use, so this may not be helpful to you at all. Sorry.
Judy
-- Edited on 10/18/08 12:26 PM --

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judyp

purplebouquet
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purplebouquet
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Date: 11/4/08 1:29 PM

I am bringing this back up, in part because I figured out how, in part because I now have a related problem. Anyway, this is how I accomplished it:

Cut out the v-neck and back neck without s.a.
Interface the v with a thin strip of fusible interfacing.
Staystitch the tip of the v in both directions for about 1.5 inches. The staystitching should be within the future binding, so if the finished binding is 3/8 inch, you want to staystitch about 1/4 inch.
Clip the tip of the v almost to the staystitch.
Serge one shoulder seam only.
Set up your binder according to your machine's instructions.
Feed the binding strip and sew about 1 inch. Then start feeding your bodice, right side up.
Stitch slowly. Nudge the binder fabric along--you want to be sure it feeds evenly through the binder attachment instead of stretching.
As you approach the v, gently pull the fabric straight. The clipped seam will allow you to do that easily, so the binding continues without any changes.
Continue stitching until the entire neckline is bound.
Serge the other shoulder seam.
Align your front panel along the edges of the v and "miter" the very tip of the v, so you sew a small dart or lip. It will only show on the left side and is barely discernible. All of my RTW tops with a bound neckline have this tiny "dart."

It is actually easier than I thought it would be. The biggest challenge is setting up the binder attachment so the strip feeds correctly under the needles. If it's off just a hair, the left needle will be off the strip or too far on the right. That requires a complete redo.

Here is my problem now: The bodice fabric along the V puckered after I bound it. It looks as if the bias stretched, due to instability. Should I have interfaced more or not at all here? Should I have staystitched the whole V? Anybody have any ideas?

Claudia

ryansmumAria
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In reply to purplebouquet


Date: 11/6/08 10:24 PM

Claudia, I hope someone answers your question as I would love to know the answer as well. When using a coverstitch binder can you tell me what the formula is to figure out what size to cut out. I have the Janome binder and I haven't figured it out yet. Thanks
-- Edited on 11/6/08 10:25 PM --

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nancy2001
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In reply to purplebouquet


Date: 11/10/08 8:00 AM

Claudia, I recently reviewed a vee neck tee shirt (note that this review covers two different necklines -- a traditonal lapped vee neck and also a crossover neckline) and found it was helpful to reinforce the bodice around the vee with Design Plus Straight Fusible Stay Tape. Note that I have a coverstitch machine but not a binder, so I used the quartering method to attach the band and then topstitched with a 2.0 twin needle. Here's a closeup of the vee.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

purplebouquet
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Date: 11/10/08 10:49 AM

I think, again, I figured out my problem. I watched Sewing With Nancy, Easy To Go Knits (or some title like that), on PBS over the weekend, and she showed how to turn and topstitch a V-neck. Not the binder thing, but close enough. Anyway, she staystitched the tip of the V and then stabilized that part only, not the whole V. So I believe all that stabilizing I did was too much of a good thing. The binding adds a lot of stability in itself, and it was probably not necessary to use fusible interfacing along the entire length of the V.

Nancy, I also used the fusible stay tape you recommended. Great product, but in this case, maybe I should have just used it for the tip.

Ryan's Mom, I don't think a "formula" applies to working with the binder attachment. Are you thinking of the ratio recommended for ribbing, such as 3/4 of the overall neckline? Not necessary with a binder, that's the beauty of it.

Be sure to cut out a strip of fabric that feeds evenly through your binder. You want it quite a bit longer than the area you are going to bind, I recommend 5-6 inches. Practice on scraps first to make sure your binder is adjusted PERFECTLY (see my prior post). Widthwise, you'll want to cut out your fabric exactly the size of your binder or a bit less or a bit more. Thin knit fabrics may require a slightly wider width, but really very little, woven, the exact width, heavier knits a bit less. It depends on the fabric. If it has a lot of stretch or is very slippery, feed it through the binder first a few times without sewing. It really helps adjusting the fabric to the binder so you don't have unwanted stretching when you do sew it. Set the diff. feed to zero. The binder takes care of the rest.

My teeshirt is almost complete, except for the hemline. I am very pleased with the neckline, despite the bit of puckering, and can't wait to try another one.

Claudia

Sherril Miller
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Date: 11/10/08 11:00 AM

I've never done, but somehow this info needs to be added to the knowledge base. You ladies have done a great job describing how to do this.

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and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

Sew4Fun
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In reply to purplebouquet


Date: 11/10/08 5:39 PM

Hi Claudia,
I just found this thread. I've bound several V-neck tops and I did it the same way you described. I interface and staystitch the very tip of the V, plus approx. 1" on either side. I use a separate 1" long piece of interfacing on sides so all my interfacing is on the straight grain. I cut my interfacing wider than the finished width of the binding.

At the V when I straighten the fabric out, I sort of ease the fabric into the binder so it doesn't stretch out. For the rest of the neckline I'm very careful not to let the bodice fabric stretch as I sew. I make sure the fabric isn't hanging off the machine bed and generally watch the fabric to make sure it isn't stretching. When finished I use *lots* of steam. I hold the iron above the neckline, give it lots of steam then finally *press* not iron the neckline.

The first one is always the hardest. After that it's pretty easy.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

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