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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Drafting pants

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Drafting pants
Crotch curves
Dale C
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Dale C  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/8/03 3:21 PM

:) Hello all,
I recall a discussion some time ago regarding using a flexible ruler for the drawing an accurate crotch curve. Supposedly, you shape the ruler to your own body curves and transfer that curve to the pattern.  I tried it recently and found it didn't work.  
What I found did work well, was to use the flexi-ruler to copy a crotch curve on a pair of old favorite jeans, then transfer it to my draft.  I often keep old clothing that I still like and use it to copy sections from.  I've never thought to use the flexi rule for much (except dart curves), but I'm finding it most useful now.
Has anyone actually had success with the "flexi-rule crotch curve" technique?  How did you make it work?
Dale

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"ACK! I'm having withdrawals! Get me to a sewing machine... NOW!"

AnneM
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AnneM  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/8/03 3:55 PM

Dale, what a great idea!

I tried using the flexicurve on my body to check a curve, and it definitely did not work for me.  I couldn't hold the curve & form it properly.  Perhaps if I had someone else forming it & I just stood there, but I like your suggestion of using an existing pair of pants much better.  

Anne, who still has not gotten around to making a pair of pants but will have to soon since her knee is poking out of her sweatpants

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With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.

Everyday Sewist
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Everyday Sewist
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Date: 3/8/03 8:48 PM

I have used the flexible ruler and I do find it helpful. But I don't really use it to draw pattern lines. I just use it as a general guide, placing it on top of the pattern to help me visualize how the clothes will drape on my body. For example, on a hip curve, the top part will match the pattern closely, but you also have to account for curves created by the darts. And I would not want the pants pattern to follow my own hip curve all the way down the thigh either.

For crotch curves, I did use the flexible ruler once, to figure out how much I needed to "scoop". But I agree, you can't really use it to draw your pattern lines. Maybe just the very bottom part of the crotch curve. (?)

On my most recent pant sloper, I copied the crotch curve from my favorite RTW pants from the Gap store. Which, by the way, is almost identical to the Burda crotch curve.

I recently used the flexible ruler to create a home-made "vary curve." I shaped it to the hip curve of a pants pattern I like, then smoothed it  VERY carefully before tracing the curve onto a piece of quilting template plastic. Then I very carefully cut it out. I'm happy with the result (though I do plan to buy a real vary curve sometime soon).

Karla Kizer
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Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/9/03 4:01 PM

I tried that Flexi-rule idea, too.  Not only did it lack accuracy, I was downright dismayed to see its outline of my abdomen. :(
I like the idea of using it to transfer the crotch curve from RTW much better.  You are 1) using a crotch curve that you are certain works, and 2) you are not forced to confront a reality that you have worked hard to deny.  ;)

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“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



Loreli
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Loreli
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Date: 3/10/03 0:59 AM

Dale I also used the flexiruler for the crotchseam and although the pattern looked very akward, the pants was hanging perfect in the back. It is like Betty say to use it only for the rounded part down. About an inch after the rounding I went straight  up and after fitting it to my body took in some of the with at the back after the rounding. You must ofcourse give the form that you take from the flexiruler seamallowances. It should be a flexiruler that keeps the form till you copy it on paper. After using the Burda oneseam pants with a perfect ctotch for my body I copy all pants that I sew now from this oneseam pants because the pattern witch was made from the flexiruler does look funny.

Dale C
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Date: 3/10/03 2:14 PM

The upper part of the curve, where the waist is and there are darts, isn't the area you trace. Mine looked really awkward because of that.  But the lower area still looked a bit odd, so I scrapped that idea.  When I sewed the muslin, it kinda was droopy and wide.  I'm not sure if I did it wrong, but when I did the copy of the jeans I liked, it came out a bit tighter and got rid of that droopiness.  
Loreli, I agree.  Once you've found a good curve, it's easy enough to make a template and transfer it so other pants you make fit well.  I was just hoping the flexiruler would be a good way to find the curve with clientele.  It seems easier to ask them to shape it to their body than to have them keep trying on a pair till you get it just right.  Sometimes, they don't have a decent fitting pair of pants to copy the curve off of so this would've been a good solution... if it worked.
Dale

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"ACK! I'm having withdrawals! Get me to a sewing machine... NOW!"

Ashford
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Ashford
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/7/13 12:10 PM

I liked the logic about drafting the pant pattern in this blog article.

1. start with a pencil skirt draft to get the correct fit at waist and hip

2. how to convert the skirt pattern to a pant pattern

3. how to convert the pant pattern to a jean pattern

===============
Blog: The Sewing Corner
Author: Sabrina Wharton-Brown
Article: How to Draft Stereo-butt/Non-mono-butt Jeans
Date: Friday, 28 December 2012
===============


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Know, first, who you are; and then adorn yourself accordingly. ~Epictetus

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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In reply to Ashford <<


Date: 10/7/13 8:41 PM

That is an excellent article! I think I'll bookmark it.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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Baja Susana
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Baja Susana  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/7/13 10:15 PM

During the mini wardrobe contest, I made two,pencil skirts that were also wrap. They fit so perfectly I wondered how to make them into pants...now I know.
thanks Ashford for this!

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Baja Susana
www.susansewsdaily.blogspot.com
Sewing on the beach, what could be better?

TessKwiltz
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TessKwiltz  Friend of PR
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/8/13 9:11 AM

I couldn't get past this part

Quote:
To take this measurement with ease included, side on a hard flat surface in your tights/pantyhose and take the measurement from your side waist, over the curve of your hip, down to the surface.


You will laugh, but I own neither tights nor pantyhose Is there some reason this is important? Or is it just for smoothing? I gave up trying to find any that fit around my derriere that didn't have four extra inches of length bagging around my ankles

When I used to live in a cold climate, I used to wear pantyhose under my pants, especially in winter. Can't imagine doing that in Houston. Getting hot flashes just thinking about it

------
Tess

On threadpainting flowers: "How many colors are in a flower? ... How many do you have?" - Ellen Anne Eddy

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