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Louise Cutting One Seam Pants pockets
pocket problem
Pennysews
Pennysews
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 4/11/05
Posts: 13
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Date: 3/12/06 8:30 PM

Hi--I have made three pairs of the One Seam Pants (Louise Cutting), and I had a recent problem with one pair. I made them in tencel, and they were beautiful. I stabilized the pockets with iron-on interfacing and double stitched with a short stitch length, just as Louise recommended. However, after washing them a couple of times, the pockets pulled away from the seam about an inch from the bottom, where the seam is very narrow, and they frayed.

It's not a simple matter of taking out the seams and tucking in the frayed edges. Even though the fabric is sage green, the threads that frayed are black, which is really odd--so the fabric is actually a combination of green with black woven into it. You see the black only when the edges fray.

In any case, even if I didn't have a problem with the black threads, there is no seam allowance to redo. If you've made these pants, you know that elephant ear pocket seam is simply attached to a slash in the side which has no seam.

Soooo I'm trying to figure out how to salvage these pants. The fabric was so expensive, and I love the pants. I am thinking of slashing the entire side and making a seam all the way to the hem. I don't know what else to do--I can't hide the bottom of the pockets. I am also concerned about future pants and how long they are going to hold up. Has anyone else had this problem? I hope this is the place to ask this--I haven't posted before.
Penny

Stitchology

Stitchology
Intermediate
Maryland USA
Member since 1/26/03
Posts: 3678
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In reply to Pennysews


Date: 3/12/06 9:11 PM

Tencel will do this, yes. You could try binding the frayed edges with something sturdier and then attaching the pockets to the binding so there is less stress on the cut edges and you have that extra fraction of an inch in SA from the binding width. Call it a design feature, of course.

------
Buy the best and you only cry once.

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/14/06 9:52 AM

I bought this pattern last week so am interested in this topic.

Would it help to cut some 1/2" or 5/8" strips of fusible interfacing to apply to the underside of the shredding cut edges first to strengthen them, before sewing?

I have not sewn with tencel yet, but will take care in stress points now that I know it's behavioral tendencies.

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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
Intermediate
New Hampshire USA
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Date: 3/14/06 10:15 AM

I haven't made these pants yet, and I've never sewn with Tencel, but I'll still stick my nose in here anyway.

Can you reinforce the area with fusible interfacing, and then sew the pocket seam slightly larger to hide the black threads? Or put some kind of binding or trim around the pocket opening to cover it up? If it's pulling at the very bottom, you could do one of those handsewn triangular bartack things to cover it up - they look pretty classy. If all else fails, adding a seam sounds like an excellent idea. That's on the straight grain in these pants, right? so you'll just lose a little width in the leg and save some nice pants!

Liane M
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Liane M  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/14/06 10:50 AM

I haven't made these pants, but I have the pattern. You may try posting your question on SW. Louise has a thread there and answers questions almost daily. She is a generous teacher and I'm sure she can shed some light on this problem.

Stitchology

Stitchology
Intermediate
Maryland USA
Member since 1/26/03
Posts: 3678
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Date: 3/14/06 10:56 AM

Just FYI tencel will fray along any cut edge. Take extra care with SA's and expect them to be fraying starting when you start cutting.

------
Buy the best and you only cry once.

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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In reply to Stitchology


Date: 3/14/06 12:31 PM

So, , , is it safe to assume that all tencel should be serged along cut edges as soon as it is cut?

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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.

Stitchology

Stitchology
Intermediate
Maryland USA
Member since 1/26/03
Posts: 3678
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In reply to Doris W. in TN


Date: 3/14/06 6:48 PM

Since I don't have a serger that's not an option for me. I kind of think serging would be too much thread density for it and possibly create a new place for it to shred apart. I just run a straight stitch or narrow, long zig zag close to the cut edge. Just something to stop the fraying action.

------
Buy the best and you only cry once.

Irene

Irene  Friend of PR
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 1/4/03
Posts: 946
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In reply to Pennysews


Date: 3/14/06 9:32 PM

Penny, your query prompted me to pull out my OSP with elephant ear pockets. Both pockets are fraying at the bottom, even though I'd already zig-zagged along one seam to catch unraveling threads. (I serged the raw edges and followed all of Louise's directions, but that didn't help . . . the seam is SO narrow).

I would not make a seam all the way down the pants: you'll have to have a somewhat substantial seam--otherwise it, too, will fray. If you run a big seam down the pants and leave the pocket intact, you'll end up with a dart effect that emphasizes fullness at the hip.

I think I'll cover over and reinforce the raveling portion with a decorative reinforcing tack--an arrowhead tack or crow's-foot tack (Threads #78, p. 63 has both, Threads #69 has the arrowhead on p. 8). In the second reference, David Coffin says that he used Ultrasuede triangles fused with Steam-a-Seam to reinforce a cowboy shirt, so that's another option.

Patti B
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Patti B  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/14/06 10:51 PM

Penny, I have a love/hate relationship with Tencel and you have just learned why. Once I finished teaching a class, bent over to pick up my bag and felt a breeze on my tush. Turned out the seam on my skirt had decided that it wanted a divorce from the skirt! Nope, it wasn't tight, it was just being tencel. I had made my daughter a skirt from the same fabric and it did the same thing to her the same week! Very weird!

I have made these pants and pockets in other fabrics and in fact was wearing one pair today. The pockets are still perfect after 2 years.

Is there some way to do a cool self binding? Otherwise your seam-down-the-side is a good save. Do try the pockets again!

------
Patti

R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success

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