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Derriere fit question
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GorgeousFabrics
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Date: 6/18/03 7:15 AM

Hi Folks,

In a comment on one of my tips, JB asked the following:
6/17/03
Have a question for you. I have heavy tummy and big hips. MY skirt rides up in the back and makes the front slag . I have altered for heavy tummy and hip, but I could use some help on this issue. I have used several altering tecchniques but havent been satisfied with them.

My response was:

JB, usually (and I would have to get a look at you to tell if this is the case) skirts riding up in back are a sign of a protruding derriere. Actually, I prefer to call this "J. Lo butt" - it sounds much sexier :). It means that you need to add height at the center back. There's a good example of how to do this in Sandra Betzina's book "Fast Fit". I prefer to use the seam method of alteration, which is shown in the tips section on the home page. I'm also going to copy your question to the Pattern Modification section of the message boards and see what the experts say.

Any other suggestions, possibilities or ideas?  Thanks! -Ann

MaryBeth
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MaryBeth
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Date: 6/18/03 8:54 AM

I'll be watching this one closely:  I'm not used to the extra pounds I'm carrying right now. :0
Having instituted a slanted waist didn't give a look that I like so my fix so far has been to make sure the waist is tight enough to hold the garment in place.   But that makes using a faced waist instead of a waist band ineffectual.  
And I really wish I could say it was a J Lo but sadly it's not.  What she's got behind her has moved to my sides....

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Georgene
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Georgene
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Date: 6/18/03 11:48 AM

I have to confess to being a little stumped by JB's skirt riding up in the back.  Here's one of those "a picture is worth a thousand words" situations!  I have to mull this one for a while.  My first thought is:  If the skirt actually fits around the hip, why would it ride up?  It would only ride up if the hip wanted more room, which it was finding below the hip point.
Are we talking straight skits or A-line skirt for the skirt that is riding up?  Need more info!  
I know that 'J.Lo butt' or the calipygenous shape has its own fit issues, and darts may be part of how to deal with it.  I imagine that one would use the size of the hip measurement and make double darts in place of single darts to create the 'shelf' aspect.
Anyone else dealing with this successfully? Please let us know.

Dale C
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Date: 6/18/03 12:53 PM

??? Hmmm... I do think we'll need a little more explanation or pics.  Big hips (at the side) and flat behind? or protruding behind?  I agree with Georgene...

Anyway, what you may want to do first is find out exactly where the best place for your waistline is.  For many of us, it slants quite a bit, but patterns are created for a basically "perfect" (or nearly straight) waistline.  Try tying an elastic band around your waist, leave it on while you go about your daily chores and then do the measurements to find out exactly where it falls.  Then knowing where your waistline is, you can check Center Front and Back to make sure there is enough length.  

As Georgene states, the skirt should remain in place if you have enough room around the hips.  However, if you have a sway back (which could cause the riding up skirt) you may have to cut-out a wedge along the CB waistline to shorten it here.   This will sometimes change the way the skirt falls and you may have other alterations to do in addition.  My problem is a slightly protruding rear, and slight sway back.  I do the cut-out wedge and have to add a little bit of extra space to the CB and side seams to make the garment fall straight.  So for a fitted garment to fit well, I always need to have that CB seam.  

Try tracing the skirt pattern and paper fit it to see what the problem is.  It could be a sway back, protruding butt, high hip.  I'm sure we can figure it out with a little more details.

Good luck!
Dale

:)

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els
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els
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Date: 6/18/03 6:06 PM

Quote
 Anyway, what you may want to do first is find out exactly where the best place for your waistline is.  For many of us, it slants quite a bit, but patterns are created for a basically "perfect" (or nearly straight) waistline.  Try tying an elastic band around your waist, leave it on while you go about your daily chores and then do the measurements to find out exactly where it falls.  Then knowing where your waistline is, you can check Center Front and Back to make sure there is enough length.  

How to do the measurements:first of all you can not measure yourself,you need somebody who will do this for you and it does not matter if he or she does  not know anything about patterns.When you have the elastic band on your waist for a while it will go where your smallest part of your body is , not exactly where you think your waist is or was.Now let somebody else do the measurements with a tape measure:put the shoes on which you are going to wear with your outfit which you are planning to make.The measurements goes 1":from the floor up to the elastic band at CF, CB, Left side and Right side. 2 : Measure from the floor up to the hight where your skirt hem will be at centre front. 3 : Deduct those inches from your taken measurements and you excactly have the needed lenghts for your skirt.For adding a waistband deduct the needed lenght with 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
Now with your correct measurements you can alter your skirt pattern, add, or deduct (or reduce ) the amount of the lenghts which your body need at CF , CB , L ,R .
It helps when you take the measurements with a led tape measure,the led part will automaticly let the tape hangs down and the led part hits the floor and all you have to do is read the inch at your elastic band at the different sides.If you do not have a led tape measure you can make one,by using a piece of led bought at the fishing store or DIW store.Important is when you attach the piece of led , measure the hight of the led because you have to measure from the floor up and you start with the zero side at the floor.For example if the led part is 1 1/2 inch do not attach yout tape above the led without deducting the 1 1/2 inch,otherwise your skirt becomes 1 1/2 inch too short.

What does the "front makes a flag "mean?I looked in my dictionary the word flag, but flag was not something that gave me a hint in which way to wonder about the fitting problem.

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Dale C
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Date: 6/18/03 10:07 PM

Wow els, that was good instructions for measuring.  I've been making lots of pants lately and completely forgot that the process for measuring crotch front and backs are different than for skirts!

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els
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els
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Date: 6/19/03 4:13 AM

For measuring the crotch lenght :measure the lenght from the elastic band from CF till CB. now you have the total lenght you need, but it is important that you know how much lenght you need for the front and the back of your pants crotch.So while the tape measure is still on your body you know now where the front crotch ends and where the back crotch starts .Write it down and also write the total lenghts of your crotch .Now you can alter your pants pattern if your crotch lenghts need some alterations.If you do not have another person to help you with this measurement try the following:
put a  non elastic band or ribbon on your waist  take another band or ribbon and knot that band at CB, from the CB bring it till the band at your waist at CF and attach it at CF.Be aware that the waist ribbon must not move downwards,mark the crotch ribbon with a pen at CF.where it is attached and mark the crotch ribbon at the inseam leg part.Cut the waist ribbon at CF and drop or step out of the ribbons.Measure now the crotch lenght total and measure the front and back crotch.I hope that you can visualise what I tried to explain in probably not so correct english.

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MaryBeth
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MaryBeth
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Date: 6/19/03 8:08 AM

Quote
I hope that you can visualise what I tried to explain in probably not so correct english.
 Your English is not perfect but who needs perfect English when your descriptions are so clear and easy to follow.  You are doing wonderfully well, better than some who have English as a first language IMHO.   :)

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GorgeousFabrics
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Date: 6/19/03 10:01 AM

There is also a fantastic article on measuring in the April/May 2003 issue of Threads.  It uses lots of pictures to demonstrate.

els
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els
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Date: 6/19/03 3:17 PM

Thanks MaryBeth for your nice compliment.

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