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I want to start to draft my own patterns
Or at least alter my own patterns
Guest
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Member since 3/16/04
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Date: 7/21/03 5:24 PM

I want to get into patterns drafting either from scratch or tracing clothes to make one.  Or maybe altering a neck line or something from a pattern.

The problem is I have no pattern drafting tools and don't know where to get them on-line.  I have located a few items on-line and they are so expensive.

So if you could lead me to an on-line source where I can get most of my patterns drafting supplies that would be great.  Also, if you have any ideas on cheaper solutions for the more expensive pattern drafting equipment, I would be interested in that too.  I might be interested in purchasing someone's used pattern drafting equipment, if I can afford it.

I have used the ironing board as a place to pin down the clothes to trace and that works but is too narrow.   I use the exam type paper for pattern paper and that works well.  I don' have a pattern tracing wheel so I use a pencil.  I don''t have a french curve, hip curve or fashion ruler so I use a seam guide and a metal ruler.  I don't have a t-square or a right triangle so I use the lines on my ruler to try to line stuff up.

I don't really have a good book on this,

I have been using info in the following books to help me
Making patterns from finished clothes
Every sewers guide to a perfect fit
high fashion secrets

None go into it as I like them to.  If you have a good book to suggest that would help too.   I can't go into stores (allergic to store chemicals) to browse through the books so I end up buying on-line and am often disappointed in the content.

Everyday Sewist
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Everyday Sewist
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Date: 7/21/03 7:46 PM

I do a bit of drafting with very basic designs, and I am on a tight budget too. Here are my suggestions:

A good book to start with: Make Your Own Patterns by Rene Bergh. It's not as detailed as some other books, but it's a good starting point and fairly inexpensive.

Essential tools:

1. An 18" C-thru ruler. This is a gridded ruler available at chain stores such as Jo-Ann, or you might be able to find it at an office supply or art supply. They are also available online. These are not terribly expensive but very versatile. I don't have a t-square and I don't feel that I need one, because I have this ruler. You can also use it to measure curves, because it's flexible. I also use it to mark seam allowances.

2. Curved rulers are expensive. I still haven't gotten around to buying a good set of "real" curved rulers. Here is what I am using in the meantime:

a. French curve: I think the one used in patternmaking is a #17 (?). If you can find a library copy of the book, Patternmaking for Fashion Design, in the back of the book is a traceable copy of this French curve. I traced it on to quilting template plastic, and cut it out very carefully. This is what I use to draft armholes and some necklines.

b. Hip curve: The one to buy is the Fairgate Vary Form curve. If you can't afford it, use that same template plastic to trace a long curve from a favorite pants pattern. Then you can use this to draw less "curvy" curves.

The Fairgate company also sells a "Fashion Designer's Kit" complete with various curves, rulers, and a drafting booklet. I found the kit online by doing a Google search, but I'm not familiar with any of the online stores that sell it. Maybe someone else can recommend a reliable source for finding these tools online.

Georgene
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Georgene
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Date: 7/22/03 11:50 AM

Hi Hermit,
It's great to see your enthousiasm for learning to make your own patterns.  By now you must have noticed that there are many, many different systems for getting there from here.  The main thing to remember is just that....there is no one way, no hard and fast rule.  If something seems difficult or obscure, put it aside and try to find a text that meets your need.  All systems for pattern drafting require doing the work, whether its a computerized drafting program, or instructions for building a sloper measurement by measurement.

Betty's list of tools is great.  If I had nothing else, I would stick with a 2"x18" C-Thru ruler and a Fairgate 24" Vari-form curve (Fairgate tools are not cheap, but you will never need to replace it), and of course a tape measure to go around your neck.  Everything else is gravy.  You can make patterns on old newspaper, or brown grocery bags.  You can work on the floor, if your table is not big enough.  You can work around any number of things.  It helps to have 2 pairs of scissors, one for paper and one for cloth.  Don't mix up the 2!

What you cannot do is work without trial and error, or work without mistakes!  Fitting samples are required, either in cheap muslin fabric, or old sheets from the Salvation Army, or any fabric you have on hand that mimics the drape and hand of your fashion fabric.  After you cut out your drafted pattern and baste it together, the trick is taking your pin fit and transferring the lines back to you paper pattern and altering your pattern.  For this it is good to have a tracing wheel, but it is not absolutley necessary.  You can just take a pointy object, even a straight pin, and jab thru from your new seam line to your paper pattern laid out underneath, and voila, you have your new line to follow.

I don't know how much time you have right now to devote to learning this craft, but figure on it taking months, possibly years, to get to the place where you can translate your vision into a finished garment.  Meanwhile, you can start by adapting store bought patterns, or making ruboffs of store bought garments that you like.  See my rub-off technique tip for a quick way to grab patterns from RTW garments.  I'll post a link here to the tip on the main page.

Georgene
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Georgene
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Date: 7/22/03 11:53 AM

See the Rub-off technique tip on the main PR page.  Also try searching here on the message board for information in various threads on adapting patterns and transferring fit corrections, there's been a lot of different discussions on these topics.

LibraDragon64
LibraDragon64
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/5/13
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Date: 5/26/13 5:34 AM

I've just ordered Pattern Drafting for Fit and Fashion by Vivian Katherine Cizeski. It's expensive ($98 plus P&P) but it looks amazing. You can download the first chapter from the website to give you an idea of the content. It's basically a full pattern drafting course step-by-step. I'll post a review when I receive it.

shajarataddurr
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Member since 4/26/11
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In reply to Guest <<


Date: 5/26/13 8:31 AM

Some are cheaper than others: I'm not sure what you consider expensive but I see a three in one for only $16.

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/26/13 11:15 AM

This topic is ten years old! Still a relevant subject but perhaps the original poster has found the answer to the question.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

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