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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Adding Pocket to Bias Skirt

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Adding Pocket to Bias Skirt
Do I Need to Cut the Pocket Out On the Bias Too?
MelC
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MelC
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North Carolina USA
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Date: 10/31/06 2:38 PM

Hi, I'm making my first bias cut skirt (McCall 4258). The pattern has no pockets but I want to add one on the side opposite the side zipper. Do I need to cut the pocket out on the bias or does it matter?

Any advice would be most appreicated!

Melanie

JenSews2
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JenSews2  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/31/06 3:04 PM

I don't know if you really want to do that and here's my thinking...

Fabric cut on the bias tends to "stretch". Do you really want to put something in your pocket and have the pocket stretch out? I would think you would want to have the pocket keep its shape by cutting the fabric on the grain.

Just a thought.

Jen

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*Jen*
If I stitch fast enough, does it count as aerobic exercise?

MelC
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MelC
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In reply to JenSews2


Date: 10/31/06 3:41 PM

Jen, Thanks for taking the time to reply. I think you make a great point. I would prefer to cut it on grain instead of bias. I just wanted to make sure someone else thought that was the way to go. Thanks again! Melanie

Lisa Laree
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Lisa Laree  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/31/06 9:49 PM

Ok, I have a codependant relationship with pockets...and I wouldn't add a pocket to a bias skirt. If you cut the pocket on the bias, you have the afore-mentioned stretching problems, but, if you cut the pocket on the straight of grain, you'll then be sewing a straight-of-grain edge to a bias edge...and that usually results in ripples (ask me how I know). I think, in theory, anyway, it can be done, but I'd rather be safe...leave the pockets off the skirt and wear a jacket w/pockets in it... ;)

If you try it and it works, let us know!

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Lisa -- so much fabric, so little time!
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carolynw
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Date: 10/31/06 10:33 PM

I agree wih Lisa Laree - no way would I put a pocket in the seam of a bias skirt - you could be getting more trouble than you would expect. Let us know how it turns out

JenSews2
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JenSews2  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/31/06 11:22 PM

Good thought Lisa and clin about leaving out the pockets, though I always like them too! I kept thinking if you HAVE to have a pocket what kind would you make? If it just needs to be small one, I'd almost consider putting a hidden one hanging from the inside of the waistband depending on the view of the skirt and whether the waist would show or your top would go over it. This would work for something thin like a driver's license or a single key, but not for anything bulky.

Just a second thought... I forgot about the bias to straight edge ripple trouble. Couldn't you avoid the stretch if you stablized the bias before you stitched? Like Steam a Seam II Lite or something?

Please do let us know what you do! I hate not having pockets in my skirts. I don't carry a purse, so I put pockets in everything possible!

Jen
-- Edited on 10/31/06 11:26 PM --

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*Jen*
If I stitch fast enough, does it count as aerobic exercise?

MelC
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MelC
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Date: 11/1/06 6:54 AM

I didn't know about the ripple effect of sewing a bias edge to a straight grain edge. That is exactly the kind of info I was looking for before I cut my pocket out. I can believe your experience and not have to find out for myself. I guess I'll have to choose between a bias (stretchy pocket) or no pocket at all.

I was kind of surprised to see a few of you who love pockets. I do too! I have found it very difficult to find patterns with pockets (especially skirt's) and I have seen posts here from people who feel they just add bulk. It's easy enough to add a pocket but I wish the pattern companies would include them and let the choice be up to the sewer.

Judy Williment
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Judy Williment
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Date: 11/5/06 4:25 AM

My thought would be that if you are sewing a patch pocket, the grains really should match, or they'll "fight" and twist and not want to sit flat. If it's to be a pouch pocket just attached to the side seam, then I would cut it on the straight grain and stabilise the side seam before sewing it in. (As you do for inserting a zip). Be aware that that seam will tend to pull down in wear, so try pinning the pocket in place while the skirt is on you or a dressform. It should look a little rippled when sitting flat on a desktop, but will be flat in wear.

It could well be easier to cut the pocket on the bias, and if you could be bothered and had spare fabric, a bit of experimenting never hurts. Good luck!

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There are no sewing mistakes - only opportunites for design features.

My blog: http://everythingjustsew.blogspot.com/

ninaee
ninaee
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SINGAPORE
Member since 12/22/09
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Date: 5/16/13 1:33 AM

I love pockets too and recently added in seam pockets to a bias cut dress.

I cut the pockets on the straight grain because I add pockets to everything and I just did it automatically without thinking.

I managed to somehow avoid ripples in the seam but the dress doesn't flow properly where the pockets are and the pockets stick out at the sides. It looks okay when i'm standing up but the fabric bunches up when I sit down and I have all this loose fabric around my waist.

I don't know if it's just bad positioning (they are a bit on the high side) or because I didn't cut the pockets on the bias.

I thought about trying again with pockets cut on the bias this time. But I've also been looking around for any hints or tips about adding pockets to bias cut garments in case there is a 'right way' to do it. Would appreciate hearing from someone who's managed to do it.

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