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Message Board > Fitting Woes > back pants wrinkles ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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back pants wrinkles
JuliaS
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JuliaS
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UT USA
Member since 3/29/04
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Date: 3/8/07 8:08 AM

I have been spending a lot of effort in past months working on pants fitting. I've really learned a lot and made great headway, and I think I'm down to my last major issue. I always get diagonal wrinkles under my butt, like this:
Burda WOF 07-2004-138
or this:
Loes Hinse European Pant

I don't think it is from too-tight thighs or general bagginess in back. I have a very curvy and proportionately full behind; I am always having to pinch out 1"-2" darts at the CB waist. I am also big from front-to-back compared to my hip measurement; I am always having to extend the front and back crotch points. I have made a measurement of my crotch curve using a flexible ruler. I THOUGHT I was lining it up correctly with the pattern pieces and adjusting them for my crotch shape but the fact that I still have this issue makes me second-guess that.

In my last review, Karla Kizer suggested that I need more length at the side seam and recommended that I pull down on the waist to see if that makes the wrinkles go away. It does; if I pull the waist down so that it is very low on my hips, the wrinkles are gone and the back crotch feels comfortable but then the front crotch hangs really low. Not very attractive. :)

So am I missing something about the side seam idea? Is there some other adjustment I would make with that besides just adding length? My current thought is that maybe I am very low in the back crotch and need to lower the back crotch extension compared to the front one.
-- Edited on 3/8/07 9:48 AM --

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/8/07 9:43 AM

Since Karla's suggestion works then maybe when you pull your pants all the way up your butt is stopping the CB seam from coming up as far as the side seams. I have this type of problem too. I think you do need a lower back crotch than front, that is pretty human and normal for women. Also, to get some length in the side seam you could try this:



If you cut the pattern right at the hip line which is that horizontal level where the CB seam starts to become the crotch curve, and spread the side seam edge open maybe 1/2 inch, you will get more length in the side to go over your curved side. The extra length in the front side seam just gets added to the top. Pants seams need to be somewhat like our bodies in order to hang politely to the hem.

Make sure your back darts start where you are smaller in the waist and point to and end just short of your fullest part. Darts can be anywhere you need them. Just taking in the back seam isn't always the solution even if pinching it out there seems to fix things at the moment. Look at the vertical stripes in the fabric to help you decide how you want the pants to hang. Do you really want the stripes to angle in that much at the CB? Could it be better if you shaped the back with darts along the waistline instead? Just offering sample questions to ask.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

Nancy K
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Date: 3/8/07 9:46 AM

Ok, if you do the wedge insert you won't increase the crotch depth, only the outside seam. Put an elastic on you waist and then lower the waist until the wrinkles disappear, then measure between the bottom of the elastic and th top of the pant and use this as the measurement for the size of the wedge at the seam line.
An old article in Threads talks about the fact that a woman's crotch tilts down toward the back, but that patterns mostly don't do this. In fact I have never seen this. But you can easily do this on your pattern 1/4" at a time. It gives you a longer crotch lengnth but it is not just the length that you need but the crotch shape changes which is where you need the extra room. If you line up the inseams for about 4" from the crotch point down the leg, the crotch should tilt down towards the tush.
-- Edited on 3/8/07 9:51 AM --
-- Edited on 3/8/07 9:52 AM --

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

slanden99
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slanden99
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Date: 3/8/07 10:10 AM

Those wrinkles remind me of the Built By Wendy pants I made last fall. The problem is that there wasn't enough sitting room built into the crotch curve. To solve that you need to scoop out the crotch curve until the wrinkles dissapear, then add to the back side seams to make up for the lost width (from the scooping).

BJ1400
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BJ1400
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Date: 3/8/07 10:39 AM

Boy, making a pair of pants that fit correctly can be quite an ordeal! I worked on that all day yesterday. I have the Kenneth King pants cd. Last year I worked thru it & got a pattern that fit pretty well and made 1 pair of shorts. But then I laid it aside & somehow I lost it. So I made another pattern & made a shorts muslin. The first one wasn't right. They were too short thru the back crotch. So I added a wedge at the back crotch that narrowed to nothing at the side seam. That fixed that problem, but then there were other problems. It's surprising when you fix 1 problem how much it can affect anther part of the pants! And not how you might think it would. So I altered the pattern & made another pair of shorts. The 2nd pair fits pretty well. Well enough that I finished them & will wear them. But I still need to tweak the pattern more. Even though my KK pattern doesn't fit perfectly, it much better than any pattern I can buy. I traced a Burda WOF pants pattern & then used the pattern I created to made changes to the back crotch.

Good luck, Julia, on your pants.

------
Beverly.

Sewing Makes Me Happy

http://bjsewmuchmore.blogspot.com

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
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NH USA
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Date: 3/9/07 8:56 AM

Do you have knock-knees, by any chance? I do, and I was getting wrinkles like that until I used the knock-knee alteration from SB's Fast Fit. It's basically a wedge like Sewliz drew, except it's at the top of the inseam (front and back) to add extra length to the inside leg. It's not obvious at all that you need to add length there, but it worked for me.

After that, I still had some wrinkles which were helped by lowering the crotch curve. That still left some, which I'm convinced are caused by having the pants very fitted over the hips. A little more ease can help the pants drape more evenly.

Kathi R
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Kathi R  Friend of PR
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CA USA
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Date: 3/9/07 11:17 AM

I had the same problem and the solution was to cut all the way across the back, similar to the wedge suggestion, but on both sides at once. I was surprised that an inch added in the CB, tapering to nothing at the side seams solved the problem. Good luck - fitting pants is more difficult than engineering a bridge and anyone who is successful should be applauded.....I solved the problem in my bum, but I'm still working on the waist fit.

------
2012 : starting stash 386, net additions 206, used 164, ending stash 428...I'm never going to get in front of this pile of fabric!

Mlle Laura
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Mlle Laura
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FRANCE
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In reply to JuliaS


Date: 3/11/07 5:43 AM

I have exactly the same problem, so I'd be really interested to see how you solve it! I wish I had some tips, but I don't...Do keep us posted!

sewitfitsyou
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sewitfitsyou
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Date: 3/11/07 1:32 PM

I posted this in your review: I had the same problem in every pair of pants I've ever made. The solution is more side seam length as someone else said. Split the pattern horizontally around the low hip area and spread the side seam edge about 1", tapering to nothing at CF and CB. I finally found this adjustment in The Minott Method pants book. See page 29, problem #20 - "Wide hips can pull the pants legs to the outside. Solution: Reposition pants leg towards center of body."

One easy way to tell that this is the problem is to look at your striped pants. The low hip line is your horizontal balance line in fitting, ie. it should be parallel to the floor. That line in your low hip area slants down from the side seam to the CB.

A way to test the theory without sewing, similar to what you have already done, is to just pull the waist down at the side seams - leave CB and CF where they are as you say you like the way those areas fit now.

Additionally, my back crotch curve needs to be lower than my front crotch curve. So I lined the front and back pattern pieces up along the inner thigh seam for the first 3 inches or so. Then I drew the crotch curve so it slopes down front to back. This might help you as well.

Although I think I am bigger than you, the photos look exactly like what I was experiencing and finally solved. Good luck with the fitting.

JuliaS
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JuliaS
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UT USA
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Date: 3/11/07 2:58 PM

Thank you all so much! I think I am going to try two things in my next pair: make the back crotch curve lower than the front and add side seam length. We'll see how that goes...

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