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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Altering Pants Pattern

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Altering Pants Pattern
A course in Physics
woggy
woggy  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/27/07 12:30 PM

I never took Physics but I do know there is a principle in Physics which goes something like this, "For every action there is a reaction." Altering a pant pattern convinces me that it is not Geometry or Algebra but Physics.

I have spent most of this past year's weekends modifying and altering various pants patterns. I have read every post on this site about this subject, as welll as some other websites. And re-read and re-read. I have purchased a few of the recommended books and studied those. I finally figured out what alterations (I am on my third bolt of muslim from Jo-Ann's due to all the experimenting of pant making) would work.

Well, last night I did the Sandra Betzina's "flat butt" alteration which is to cut below the crotch line and lower the upper part of the pattern over the leg portion according to the measurements I pinned out but no more than 3/4 inches should be removed. I also added a tad bit back on the inseam below this alteration - I trued the inseam.

I sewed one leg together and put it on to test. I was thrilled until I sat down and realized that I had lost width from my thigh area. How could that be? A smidgen was lowered and I lost enough thigh width that I knew it wasn't going to work.

I placed my copy over the original pattern and was surprised to see how much the inseam had been narrowed - about 1/2 inch was missing. And this narrowed seam was a few inches long - below where I had trued the inseam.

So for you Physics and math majors out there - can you explain how this "slight" alteration managed to mess up about 5 or 6 inches of my inseam?

It has been written a few times on these boards that one alteration will cause another problem somewhere and last night proved it to me!

Thanks for your insights and responses.

Woggy

BJ1400
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BJ1400
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WV USA
Member since 10/29/03
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Date: 6/27/07 1:06 PM

I don't have an answer to your question, but I'm also working on fitting pants. I don't know how many pairs I've made recently & how much stash I've used. I tired of working on the, but I can't seem to stop. I've become obsessed with this! I know I am overly critical too & that has also made me more critical of the fit of RTW.
I'll make a pair of pants that fit pretty good & change 1 thing; but like you said that affects something else! I've read & read my books. And some of the things they say to do just do not work. But I'll just keep trying.......

------
Beverly.

Sewing Makes Me Happy

http://bjsewmuchmore.blogspot.com

So So
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So So
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UNITED KINGDOM
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Date: 6/27/07 4:45 PM

SNAP! Same here. I have been drafting mad! Made another draft tonight. On here for a rest. Now wondering if i have changed too much. Will cut it out tomorrow as a muslin. Have a feeling the better fit will be somewhere between this draft and the previus one. Hence halted progress for tonight. Keep going we will get there eventually. Sorry can't explain your physics question. I have to admit i am very much trial & error. And if I do finally manage to get it right , I only hope I remember how I did it! LOL

utz
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utz
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IL USA
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Date: 6/28/07 9:00 AM

Here's a tip I read somewhere on this board a while back and I used it with my 3 week muslin fit, tweek, when I had the 'Pants for Real People' book open - adjusting everything accordingly, 'reading the wrinkles' that point to the problem:

safety pins. Those curved ones they sell for quilters. I would pin accurately long seam lines and play until things progressed. Took many times, but at least I wasn't baste stitching and removing all the time. I did use muslin with really big seam allowances. And I pinned, and I scooped crotch (using pins) etc etc. The results weren't perfect, but it did tell me the general issues I needed to know.

One thing I did learn that if you make adjustments - start small. 1/8 in even. Very little changes can make big differences. Pants fitting is draping cloth over an irregular surface so it hangs straight. No mean feat. (To see this, hold up a cloth dishcloth at its corners so that it hangs straight. Now lower one edge 1/8 in and see the diagonal folds. And that's a simple rectangular piece of fabric, pants are complicated.) Good luck! And maybe try Burda pants if you're not.

------
'Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.' Oscar Wilde

gramma b
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gramma b
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Date: 2/2/14 4:06 PM

Re-boot this discussion:
Physics majors!
Anyone discovered new Easy alterations for flat butt to make
capris for summer? Prefer half-elastic waist as it's covered anyway, but don't want those extra waist gathers to look poufy.
If I pinch out a bit just below the waist at center back, it takes out the sag, but then how to translate that to the other seams? I need the crotch length for talls.


**Any favorite patterns available locally?
I want some dressier like linen blends, stretch twills, instead of usual denim.


-- Edited on 2/3/14 6:54 AM --

simplystitches
simplystitches
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 2/2/14 7:44 PM

When you slide the top down you're bringing it down to a spot at the inseam/back thigh that's narrower than where it was originally and it's going to be narrower for quite some distance. In other words it's narrowing the back thigh while maintaining the same crotch shape, depth and length.


You wouldn't think you were removing that much width in the thigh when you slide it down but you do!


Debbie

gramma b
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 2/3/14 6:57 AM

Translate that?!

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to gramma b <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 2/3/14 9:10 AM

LOL, sure.

Think of the shape of the back inseam. You have the crotch point and the inseam has a gradual curve and gets narrower down the leg. The alteration Woggy did takes a wedge out which brings the inseam down to a narrower part of the inseam thus narrowing the back thigh.

Make more sense or as clear as mud?

Debbie

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