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Forum > Fitting Woes > Jeans vs Pants and Trousers ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Jeans vs Pants and Trousers
Crotch curve difference?
RMJ
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RMJ  Friend of PR
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Subject: Jeans vs Slacks and Trousers Date: 7/21/07 12:50 PM

Hi,
I've actually (after about 10 muslins) gotten slacks/trousers to fit. But now I'm thinking I'd like to try making jeans. I know they have less ease all around (and thus less room for error/poor fit), and the crotch seam will be closer to the body. But I've read posts where people say the crotch curve is a different shape. Can someone please explain how and why the crotch curve is different when my body is still the same shape (pictures would be wonderful)? It's just not making sense to me.

(Not actually a fitting woe yet - this is a pre-emptive strike!)

Thanks,
Ruth

(edited to use correct terms, thanks to Belinda's post)
-- Edited on 7/21/07 9:21 PM --

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/21/07 2:31 PM

Something like this. Please excuse my smeary drawing.



Trouser in black. Trousers are cut to look good standing up with the feet close together. The back curve skims the buttock but the leg part does not cup under it.

Pants/slacks in blue. These are cut for more movement, sitting and bending and placing the legs in a straddle position are easy and the whole cut is closer, the back leg area cups under the butt a little. Pants look wrinkle free if you stand with your legs apart about 18 inches and stick your butt out a little, just like the models in the catalogs do to make the pants look good. The crotch point is a little higher than the trouser, sorry my drawing isn't showin that.

Jeans in red. Classic jeans are cut close to the crotch and upper thigh and have an angled CB seam that acts like a big dart so you can comfortably sit on a horse or squat like a cowboy at the campfire. Jeans like this will look wrinkle free in the butt when you squat down as if you are riding a horse.

RTW makes everything imaginable in this spectrum of cut and calls the result anything they want. For example, some "jeans" really have a trouser type cut with the topstitching and pocket style of true jeans.

HTH

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

RMJ
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In reply to Sewliz


Date: 7/21/07 2:41 PM

That was exactly the sort of information I was hoping for! Thanks so much.
Ruth

CSM--Carla
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CSM--Carla  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sewliz


Date: 7/21/07 7:32 PM

"Pants look wrinkle free if you stand with your legs apart about 18 inches and stick your butt out a little, just like the models in the catalogs do to make the pants look good."






Thanks for this thorough explanation, Sewliz.

I've often thought that I could skip the "clown butt" alteration on my pants by standing in this way.

Sew4Fun
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Sew4Fun
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In reply to RMJ


Date: 7/21/07 8:07 PM

The "perfect" pair of wrinkle free pants will almost always have a rather straight CB seam. This means the back is cut on the straight of grain and will hang nicely from the waist. If you still want to sit down though the crotch needs more room, as the fabric has no give (due to being cut on the straight grain). Trousers are the best example of this type of pants. Straight CB seam, longer crotch extensions and generally longer crotch length overall.

Jeans on the other hand are very fitted. The crotch length is a lot shorter, including the crotch extensions to achieve the close fit. Because of this jeans are cut with a much more slanted CB seam, meaning the back is cut on the bias grain. It's the bias grain which allows you to sit and bend in jeans. Jeans have "give" built into them. The down side is because of the style and the way jeans need to be drafted you are less likely to ahieve the "perfect" wrinkle free pair of pants.

Slacks are in between the two.
Pants is a term used to describe all three styles.

HTH

-- Edited on 7/21/07 8:09 PM --

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Vonnevo
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In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 7/21/07 8:19 PM

A wonderful explanation Belinda
Vonne

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Vonne O Brisbane Australia
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AnitaJ
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Date: 7/21/07 9:26 PM

Wow - great explanations! Things are so much clearer to ne now with regard to how to approach altering the different styles. Thanks all for asking and answering this question!

*Pepper*
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In reply to Sewliz


Date: 7/22/07 9:07 AM

Wow. Just . . . wow. Thank you so much for posting that. I never knew what the difference was until I saw your drawing.

*Pepper*
*Pepper*  Friend of PR
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In reply to CSM--Carla


Date: 7/22/07 9:09 AM

[I've often thought that I could skip the "clown butt" alteration on my pants by standing in this way.]


-- Edited on 7/22/07 9:10 AM --


*giggle* If only we could hold a pose so that everything stayed where it is supposed to be. I'm thinking some duct tape might come in handy.
-- Edited on 7/22/07 9:12 AM --

Debbie Cook
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Date: 7/22/07 9:27 AM

In case you missed it, Belinda expanded a bit on this with her latest blog entry, here.

(Thanks Belinda!)



-- Edited on 7/22/07 9:27 AM --

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

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