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Finding grainline
Lost grainline in pants pattern after altering
Diane English
Diane English
Intermediate
North Carolina USA
Member since 7/11/06
Posts: 3
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Date: 8/1/07 5:49 PM

Hi All, I wonder if anyone can help me? I have made several alterations to the front and the back of a pants pattern. Now the grainline is distorted. I can't figure out how to reestablish a grainline. I don't have any line that I know for sure is correct, so I have nothing to use in drawing a perpendicular line.I drew In a crotch line and a hip line, but how do I know if they are straight across? If I could find any line that I know is correct and square, I could use my quilting rulers to establish the perpendicular. Are there guidelines for establishing a grainline in pants? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance. Di

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Diane English

Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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California USA
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Date: 8/1/07 7:24 PM

To establish your grainline, you fold the leg in half lengthwise from the knee level down. Anything above doesn't have to match. The crotch points will, of course, not meet. If this line isn't straight up the center of the upper portion, don't panic. That's just how your body is. The important thing is that your grainline be straight up the center of the leg.

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

Diane English
Diane English
Intermediate
North Carolina USA
Member since 7/11/06
Posts: 3
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 8/1/07 8:08 PM

Sherril, Thanks you sovery much! I'm off to work on my pants! Have a great evening. Di

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Diane English

oracle
oracle
Intermediate
Ontario CANADA
Member since 8/26/04
Posts: 2
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Date: 8/16/07 5:20 PM

I've been struggling over the same question all day. What a relief to see a good answer here! I've been doing a flat seat alteration based on Option 2 in Fast Fit, where, on pants back, one uses (or draws, if nec., and then uses) a line from crotch point to side seam. This line, of course, is established at right angles to an *already established* grainline. Then one cuts from inseam to outer seamline, leaving a hinge. Then, overlap at inseam by up to 1/2" so that back inseam will be 1/2" shorter than front inseam (to pull in excess fabric under seat). All fine and good, but now the grainline is distorted. Unfortunately, in Fast Fit, the instructions for checking the grainline just say to draw a straight line (again, in this case) from crotch point to side seam; measure it; mark at X at half-way point (or move that X 1" toward side seam if altering pants back); and then draw a line through the X perpendicular to the new crotch line you've just drawn. But I had the same problem Diane described above: How do you know that your first new (i.e. crotch) line is straight in the first place? Basically, in Fast Fit instructions it seems that one just eyeballs it. But in comparison to what? I've been going nuts trying to find out what the correct pants grainline is supposed to relate to in the first place, to give me a place to start. Thanks, Sherril!

oracle
oracle
Intermediate
Ontario CANADA
Member since 8/26/04
Posts: 2
Send Message

      



Date: 8/16/07 5:20 PM

I've been struggling over the same question all day. What a relief to see a good answer here! I've been doing a flat seat alteration based on Option 2 in Fast Fit, where, on pants back, one uses (or draws, if nec., and then uses) a line from crotch point to side seam. This line, of course, is established at right angles to an *already established* grainline. Then one cuts from inseam to outer seamline, leaving a hinge. Then, overlap at inseam by up to 1/2" so that back inseam will be 1/2" shorter than front inseam (to pull in excess fabric under seat). All fine and good, but now the grainline is distorted. Unfortunately, in Fast Fit, the instructions for checking the grainline just say to draw a straight line (again, in this case) from crotch point to side seam; measure it; mark at X at half-way point (or move that X 1" toward side seam if altering pants back); and then draw a line through the X perpendicular to the new crotch line you've just drawn. But I had the same problem Diane described above: How do you know that your first new (i.e. crotch) line is straight in the first place? Basically, in Fast Fit instructions it seems that one just eyeballs it. But in comparison to what? I've been going nuts trying to find out what the correct pants grainline is supposed to relate to in the first place, to give me a place to start. Thanks, Sherril!

Sherril Miller
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California USA
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Date: 8/16/07 6:51 PM

You're welcome.

------
Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

bunz
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bunz
Intermediate
Virginia USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 2728
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 8/16/07 9:51 PM

Triple thanks, Sherril. I've been "fudging" the grainline on all my muslins (sttill no pants :devil:) because all the books say "redraw grain line"!! LOL!!

So now you've told us how to re-draw the grain line! So easy, and yet so elusive.

Nina

Mufffet
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Mufffet  Friend of PR
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Vermont USA
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Date: 8/17/07 9:32 AM

Sherril, that is so helpful - I too had this dilemma and got out the original pattern and placed it over the pants leg and I think ended up with the grainline corrected, but now I know a better way!! Thanks again!

muffet:)

------
"Be kind whenever possible. It is always possible."
--Dalai Lama

I have sewing machines

OP Gal
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OP Gal  Friend of PR
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Kansas USA
Member since 10/14/03
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 8/17/07 1:25 PM

Gee, I wonder if the grainline on the pants muslin that I'm working on is true. I haven't checked it, but I will now. Thanks, Sherill, for being around, for being such a font of knowledge and being willing to share that knowledge. I don't know what I'd do without those of you who share your knowledge and experience with the rest of us.

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If I sewed any slower, I wouldn't be sewing at all. -- Kellie R.

BeckyC
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BeckyC  Friend of PR
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Minnesota USA
Member since 5/8/04
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 10/9/07 8:22 AM

Thanks Sherril! I just wanted to bring this post to the top to thank you for your expertise. My pants pattern has so many alterations that I thing my grainline is so chopped up it's going in every direction! Every book that I've referenced each has their own way of establishing grainline. I trust your method most because of all the great patternmaking classes you have taken. So Thanks again!

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I feed my soul by the stitches I sew.



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