Kellie R.

 Intermediate TX USA Member since 7/4/07 Posts: 1651 PR Weekend Volunteer |
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Date: 9/9/07 2:58 PM I'm making Butterick 3721 an historical men's costume. This will be for my husband's butler costume for a school Murder Mystery parent event.
The jacket calls for hair canvas interfacing. I've not heard of this before.
I'd be greatful if anybody can help fill me in as to what it is, where I can find it and whether or not it can be substituted. My guess is that it's a natural fiber interfacing that perhaps is stiff and gives solid structure to a tailored jacket???
Any insight is greatly appreciated!!!!! Thanks! ------ A bad day in the sewing room is better than a good day at the office.
Getting through life, one stitch at a time.
http://when-ladies-dressed.blogspot.com/ |
frame
Advanced USA Member since 2/19/04 Posts: 2040 |
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In reply to Kellie R.
Date: 9/9/07 3:05 PM Hair Canvas is a type of interfacing usually used in tailoring jackets or coats. It's very expensive (I think). I've used an alternate tailoring interfacing depending on the fabric weight.
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Kellie R.

 Intermediate TX USA Member since 7/4/07 Posts: 1651 PR Weekend Volunteer |
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Date: 9/9/07 3:16 PM I'm using 100% wool suiting in a dark charcoal gray.
Woah - that is expensive. I have all sorts of interfacing on hand (fusible and non-fusible), but wondered if the hair canvas has a something particular about it.
At that price, I'll probably use what I have. ------ A bad day in the sewing room is better than a good day at the office.
Getting through life, one stitch at a time.
http://when-ladies-dressed.blogspot.com/ |
Tom P
 Intermediate NY USA Member since 3/16/07 Posts: 888 |
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In reply to Kellie R.
Date: 9/9/07 3:17 PM It's a cloth made of goat hair and rayon. It holds shape well, and is a stiff sew-in interfacing. BA Black and Sons sells it quite reasonably. Their shoulder pads are also good. It's also called Hymo. Not hair cloth. You might think they'd be the same, but they are quite different.
If you want to substitute a fusible interfacing, that can also be done. If he's not going to wear it much, it may not matter. The Singer sewing library book on tailoring has a pretty good parallel description of how Hymo is used and how fusible is done. You can easily use it to figure out how to substitute. |
Kellie R.

 Intermediate TX USA Member since 7/4/07 Posts: 1651 PR Weekend Volunteer |
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Date: 9/9/07 3:27 PM Oh - here's a really useful chart that I just found. It has charts for both fusible and non-fusible interfacing, describing what they are, their applications and care instructions.
There's a lot of good information. Click here for the
Interfacing Guide ------ A bad day in the sewing room is better than a good day at the office.
Getting through life, one stitch at a time.
http://when-ladies-dressed.blogspot.com/ |
mastdenman
 Intermediate CA USA Member since 1/12/04 Posts: 5853 |
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Date: 9/9/07 4:58 PM I'll second for B Black & Sons. Great product and fast service. ------ Marilyn
January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.
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frame
Advanced USA Member since 2/19/04 Posts: 2040 |
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In reply to Kellie R.
Date: 9/9/07 7:41 PM I've used Armo Weft fusible in my tropical worsted weight wools. I live in a desert climate, not much need for heavy wools. I also prefer fusibles for shaping. Just a personal preference, no right or wrong.
I've been able to purchase HTC weft fusible at my local Joann's for less than $4 per yard. I like it also.
That's a handy chart. Thanks for the link. :) ------ "framed" was taken |
Nancy K
 
Advanced NY USA Member since 12/28/04 Posts: 7631 |
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In reply to Tom P
Date: 9/9/07 8:22 PM Thanks for the new source! There certainly is a difference between hair cloth and Hymo. I still have the haircloth I bought by mistake many years ago. If this is a costume I don't see why you couldn't use fusible interfacing except if it is gabardine which doesn't want to fuse. There is a lot more work involved in using hymo including using a method to keep it out of the seams. You also need to pad stitch it. Lots of handwork. ------ www.nancyksews.blogspot.com |
Kellie R.

 Intermediate TX USA Member since 7/4/07 Posts: 1651 PR Weekend Volunteer |
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Date: 9/10/07 1:22 PM Thanks so much for the information - Tom, I didn't see your post as I was looking up that Interfacing Guide...
I've been thinking about this and will buy a sew in interfacing. Because it's for a costume and won't get regular use, I don't want to spend the money on the upmarket, natural interfacings... (when making a nice regular jacket for myself, however, I'd make the investment).
But I don't want to use fusible - I don't think it would look right for the large front pieces of the wool jacket to have the interfacing fused on - it still needs to hang properly on its own.
This has been an interesting learning curve - thanks so much for everybody's help. I hope others find it useful as well. ------ A bad day in the sewing room is better than a good day at the office.
Getting through life, one stitch at a time.
http://when-ladies-dressed.blogspot.com/ |
deeziner
Advanced Beginner MO USA Member since 3/21/12 Posts: 1 |
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Date: 4/3/12 0:44 AM :) Very helpful thread... just wanted to update the link for the Interfacing Guide which has changed...
Interface Guide -- Edited on 4/3/12 0:46 AM -- |