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Forum > Fitting Woes > Do the raglan twist! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Do the raglan twist!
Or..sleeve twist issue with KS 2874
Marilly
Marilly
Advanced Beginner
Oregon USA
Member since 7/9/06
Posts: 763
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Date: 11/12/07 3:01 PM

I just made up KS 2874 raglan sleeve top , view B and am getting twisting in the sleeve. The drag lines run diagonally from my upper arm and point down to the underarm and inner seam.
I do have a forward shoulder and had flattened out the sleeve front and added a bit to the back to try and fix it after the first muslin. The shoulder looked better but the twisting in the lower arm is still there. The lines disappear when I move my arm out and back, which opposite the way your arm usually hangs..weird.
Perhaps the problem lies in the way the shoulder connects underarm seam? I looked at how the sleeve was divided ( drew a line perpindicular to the sleeve hem all the way up the pattern piece) and noticed there's a lot more in front above the under seam than in back. It's sort of confusing since 2 other raglan sleeve patterns I looked at were practically symetrical.
Did anyone else who made KS 2874 have this issue? I'd like to knock this down to a couple of drag lines which I figure are part of the style, vs. the twisties that are happening. This is a pic of what I'm seeing.

Tom P
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Tom P  Friend of PR
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In reply to Marilly


Date: 11/12/07 3:34 PM

Quote: Marilly
The lines disappear when I move my arm out and back, which opposite the way your arm usually hangs..weird.

This makes it sound like the pitch of your arm is different from the pattern. I have this also; my hands are closer to the front of my body than the pattern makers had in mind.

For a set in sleeve, I'd suggest that the sleeve be rotated in the armscye slightly, by moving the top of the sleeve back 1/2 - 1 inch, and moving the other marks accordingly. Can you remove the sleeve, and try to baste it in like this to see if it removes the wrinkles?

I guess the seamlines may not match at the neckline or the underarm, but it would be nice to nail down the problem. I guess the underarm seams don't need to match perfectly, anyway.
Lady_Mame
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Lady_Mame
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Washington USA
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Date: 11/12/07 10:08 PM


Maybe altering the pattern piece like this would help?

-- Edited on 11/12/07 10:09 PM --

------
Needle Needle Straight and Slim, Dust and Sweep the House for Him! --Grimm Fairy Tales

mastdenman
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mastdenman  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/12/07 10:42 PM

click here Here is a copy of a computer generated raglan tee pattern using my measurements. I have forward rounded shoulders also.
-- Edited on 11/12/07 10:43 PM --
-- Edited on 11/12/07 10:43 PM --

------
Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

Mandolin82
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Mandolin82  Friend of PR
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thumbsup 3 members like this.



Date: 11/12/07 11:32 PM

Marilyn, I don't have any answers but I am very impressed with your sketching ability!

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/13/07 10:32 AM

It looks like a forward shoulder problem to me, too. I'm in the middle of a raglan sleeve jacket with the same problem, because I wasn't sure how to rotate the sleeve forward on a raglan sleeve - but thanks to mastdenman, I do now!

For set-in sleeves, I've been moving the sleeve cap over as per this tip. In mastdenman's link, you can see that the raglan sleeve cap has been shifted forward, too. Of course, my pattern has a seam all the way down the center of the sleeve which is a little more work (I can be incredibly lazy when it comes to alterations!). But I've found that moving the sleeve cap over really does the trick. You're supposed to move the shoulder seam over, too - sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. Either way, my sleeve notches are always off.

Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to mastdenman


Date: 11/13/07 12:59 PM

Very cool altertion illustrations!

Lady_Mame
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Lady_Mame
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In reply to mastdenman


Date: 11/13/07 2:42 PM

I think I see what happened here, but could you describle what was altered from the orig. pattern so I can better understand? I think it's a less severe modification than what I posted, but I'm not sure.

------
Needle Needle Straight and Slim, Dust and Sweep the House for Him! --Grimm Fairy Tales

AnneM
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AnneM  Friend of PR
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In reply to mastdenman


Date: 11/13/07 8:39 PM

Quote: mastdenman
click here Here is a copy of a computer generated raglan tee pattern using my measurements. I have forward rounded shoulders also.

Which program? Great illustration on how the shoulder was shifted forward on the raglans sleeve.

Marilly, I'm also impressed w/ your sketching ability.

------
With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.

Marilly
Marilly
Advanced Beginner
Oregon USA
Member since 7/9/06
Posts: 763
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Date: 11/13/07 8:46 PM

Thanks for the ideas, all.
So far this is where I'm at with my dissectioning of the sleeve pattern after taking in the info. The goals I wanted to acheive were to widen the sleeve ( I have leg o mutton arms and theorized this might help since fabric was getting hung up on my upper arm), bring the shoulder forward 1/2 in.( hope the cut was far down enough ), and then usual shortening. Does this look like it'd work? I did walk the shoulder seams and they will match up so that's a good sign, right?
Ps...the pattern doesn't have a shoulder dart. but I was toying with the idea of adding one. ;)

-- Edited on 11/13/07 8:53 PM --

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