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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Drafting a lace overskirt

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Drafting a lace overskirt
Am attempting to draft a lace overskirt for a theatre costume.
Snoo

Snoo
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Mississippi USA
Member since 5/2/08
Posts: 66
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Date: 8/30/08 7:39 AM

Hi~
I am creating a costume for a play that is set in 1910. The dress itself is constructed of taffeta and is flat-lined (interlined) with a thin cotton for extra body and comfort. It is two pieces - bodice and 6 gore skirt. I thought about drafting the lace overskirt pattern after the same skirt pattern, only leaving out the gores - only side seams and center back seam. I need it full enough to pull up hem of center back about 15" or so.

Here's my question. Would I cut the lace skirt quite a bit fuller than the taffeta underneath? Would I catch the lace into the zipper - or just let it loosely fall open about 8" after I sew it into the waist seam? If the lace is cut fuller, I would have to gather it some for it to fit into the waistband.

If anyone could give me some direction on this, I'd really appreciate your advice. Thanks !

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Snoo


Date: 8/30/08 7:59 AM

Seeing a pic of the dress would help. I've done lace overlay on quite a few dresses. Mine were usually simple "shell" dresses for evening wear. One of my patterns calls for the lace to be stitched directly on to the taffeta(or under dress)and sew the two as one. Another one has me make a second dress, almost a tunic, out of lace and wear it over the "under dress". Have you already made the dress? Does it have a separate bodice and skirt? If it has a separate bodice, you can treat that as one(stitching the lace to the side, neck and waist seams), then for the swishy look you could just cut the skirt lace a little larger and gather it onto the skirt waist. I wouldn't make it a lot bigger, but like I said, without a picture of the dress, it's hard to know what this is suppose to look like.

Snoo

Snoo
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Mississippi USA
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In reply to JTink


Date: 8/30/08 8:59 AM

I'm sorry that i don't have a photo. I have looked at many photos in archives and just came up with this idea. Since the lady I am sewing for is quite large and very short (4'10") - maybe size 26, I have had to draft a pattern using a basic dress pattern as a guide and add to it.
I like the idea of the separate lace overskirt. I think it might hang better if it was hanging free. - then maybe make a few thread catches at the side seams - like you make a thread belt loop only at each side to keep it attached lightly. (With me here?)
The skirt and bodice are separate. I will add a lace cumberbund.
Thanks for your reply, Tink.

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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Ontario Canada
Member since 7/16/07
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Date: 3/9/12 2:56 PM

I hope you worked this out!

Bumping this up because I'm doing a similar thing to dress up a plain skirt for a wedding tomorrow. I haven't road-tested my overskirt yet, so to speak (lol)... I haven't quite finished it. But I'm using the same pattern as the skirt but making the seams a tad smaller so it won't cling to the skirt. I hope it works -- I'll let you know! The overskirt is a beautiful black (yes, I said black) sheer embroidered polyester, going over a simple grey skirt. This is my last-minute rescue, since the original skirt I was making caused me some problems. The bride is totally fine with the black sheer overlay, by the way. One lady at the fabric store almost wouldn't permit me to buy it, lol. I had it in my hand, already cut, and she marched me around the store telling me what I should buy instead. Oy.

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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Ontario Canada
Member since 7/16/07
Posts: 10520
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Date: 3/12/12 11:05 AM

The overskirt idea worked brilliantly -- it's so pretty! I'm going to do this more often. There are so many nice sheer fabrics out there right now that would make lovely overskirts. Making each of the four seams of the overskirt about 1/8" narrower than the skirt was a good inspiration, too.

I like the idea of making the overskirt separate, too, so I can mix it up with different skirts (or linings) underneath.


-- Edited on 3/12/12 11:07 AM --

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

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