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Skirt split
Reinforcing slit in skirt front.
LiZ
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LiZ  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 7/31/03
Posts: 435
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Date: 5/8/04 2:19 AM

My friend's daughter has an "expensive Designer" skirt with a front split. The stitching has come undone a number of times and she would like it reinforced with triangular satin stitching.If the stitching is too thich the fabric tears.  Does anyone know how to do this? I have seen this on RTW a long time ago and from memory it was made up of 3 small triangles to make a larger triangle probably about 1/2' each side.
Thanks
Liz

LiZ
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LiZ  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/8/04 2:27 AM

By the stitching being too thick I meant backstitching so it dosnt come undone the fabric tears. She has already returned 1 skirt because of this. It is part of a suit.
Liz

els
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els
Expert/Couture
International NETHERLANDS
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Date: 5/8/04 6:51 AM

Hi Liz I would suggest to redow the seam where the stitches are tears. Use a staytape, fusible or not.First fuse a straight of grain piece of interfacing with pinked edges at the seam , or use a piece of other non fusible fabric like silk organza or lining baste it in place and sew the seam again.The stitches are now in the middle of the staytape.You can reinforce the slit at the inside by sewing an eye from the hook and eye just above the slit at the seam allowances,or you can sew an arrowhead tack at the outside of the skirt slit as described in the book Vogue sewing.Online you can also see how this is done but it is called
The Sprat's Head Stitch and The Crow's Foot Tack see

 this link

I always reinforce slits by sewing a rectangle piece of lining fabric over the seam allowances just a hairline under the beginning of the slit. Finished wide is 1 inch and the length of the both seam allowances add a bit extra to turn under, press the extra under the part and sew that piece like this
l----------l-----------l
l----------l-----------l

Explanation sew the left side of the lining piece at the left seam allowance in a rectangle by folding the skirt to the right side of your hands, start at the left side of the seam allowance ,pivot at the end sew till a hairline away from the skirt slit seam , pivot and sew next to the skirt slit seam till you reach the upper part of the lining piece, pivot and sew the upper part of the lining piece, pivot again and sew a few stitches over the start sewn piece. Do the same at the right side of the seam allowance for the lining piece.

------
http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/

sewserious1

sewserious1
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South Carolina USA
Member since 10/31/02
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Date: 5/8/04 6:52 AM

There are many ways to do this in addition to the triangular stitching.  One trick is to take a long, skinny 'eye' part from a hook and eye set and sew it over the edge of the slit on the wrong side.  This will stop the split from tearing. Also, a tiny, thin chain can serve the same purpose.

The bartack is called an arrowhead bar tack.  I have the directions for sewing one by hand in my Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.  I could not find any directions for doing this by hand on the internet but someone else may know where to find it.

Oops, Els found it on the 'net.  We must have been posting at about the same time.

This can also be done on the machine by using a wide zig-zag stitch set to very short stitch length and gradually narrowing the stitch width to nothing.

LiZ
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LiZ  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/8/04 5:00 PM

Hi Sewserious and els, Thankyou very much for your help. Everyone here is a wealth of information. After the mishap with the first skirt, my friend had already reinforced the skirt with interfacing and resewn the seam before her daughter wore it. The arrowhead tack is exactly what I wanted to know. I have the Readers Digest Book, I was just looking in the wrong section of the book.
Thanks again,
Liz

GorgeousFabrics
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GorgeousFabrics
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Date: 5/8/04 5:58 PM

Another method that works well is to center the eye part of a small hook/eye on the seam, and sew it to the skirt on either side of the seam.  The kind of eye I mean is the small skirt one that is straight, not the "curliecue" type.

Is that clear as mud?

Ann

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