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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Finishing princess seams in doubleknit dress ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Finishing princess seams in doubleknit dress
Want a flat appearance from the front
LindsayT
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LindsayT
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Date: 10/13/08 3:27 PM

Hi all... I am making an LBD in black doubleknit. It has princess seams in the front and back, and will be lined. Right now I have 1" princess seams that I have pressed open, using a tailor's ham, and they look great.

My question is this: How do I keep the seams lying flat and open? I don't want to topstitch them open, because that will make the dress look too sporty, IMO. I fear that stitching 1/4" away from the seam and then trimming will create too much bulk. Anyone know how princess seams would be handled in a case like this? Thanks!

Rosebeee
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Rosebeee
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In reply to LindsayT


Date: 10/13/08 4:04 PM

The problem, I assume, is that once the lining is in place you won't be able to get to the seams to re-iron them flat.

Maybe some sort of fusible web would work? That should keep the seams as flat as the day you ironed them. :)

That's the only thing I can think of, if you don't want to do any top-stitching.

I like to make garments with princess seams (easier for me to fit), so I'm eager to see what other folks suggest.

------
Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

loohoo44
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loohoo44
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In reply to LindsayT


Date: 10/13/08 4:40 PM

Hmm, I'd like to see what other people have to say too. Because it is a doubleknit, I'd be tempted to try what Rosebee suggested with the fusible, like stitch witchery or steam a seam. There might be enough bulk to hide it. Otherwise you'd either have to try catchstitching them, or covering them with a lining and hope they stay. I think I usually just zig zag them together and press to 1 side, but I agree the look of a pressed open seam is much better.

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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In reply to LindsayT


Date: 10/14/08 3:07 PM

Are the seams staying flat and open now? Are you worried about the seam allowances twiddling around when you wear the dress or when you wash it?

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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

Marji
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Marji
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Date: 10/14/08 5:48 PM

And while we're at the questions, why are you lining a wool double knit?

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Marji
http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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In reply to Marji


Date: 10/14/08 6:19 PM

Quote: Marji
And while we're at the questions, why are you lining a wool double knit?


I was wondering the same thing.


As far as the princess seams, I have used the very light Steam-A-Seam to make armhole princess seams stay flat at the bust area.
CathrynR
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CathrynR  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/14/08 6:55 PM

A wide catch stitch ((from the middle of the sa, (between the seam and the edge of the sa) to the garment)) made with extremely fine thread (heirloom silk) made by catching only the topmost fibers of the garment fibers and worked loose enough not to pull at the garment, might work. I noticed on one of my RTW skirts that had a really invisible hem that that is how it was done. To keep bulk down I have used #50 silk thread to overcast/zigzag my seam allowances. You do not have to use the same type/thickness of thread throughout when making something. Different areas may require different thread types.

LindsayT
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LindsayT
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Date: 10/14/08 8:37 PM

Ok, the lining has been eliminated after an offline conversation with Marji. I used Lite Steam-a-Seam to tack the princess seams down and that is doing the trick. Thanks, all!

Luckylibbet
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Luckylibbet
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Date: 10/15/08 0:45 AM

OK, inquiring minds want to know...

The last wool knit dress I owned was in in 1986 - pre-marriage, pre-childbirth - it was the best dang fitting dress I EVER had, after going through professional alterations at Macy's SF (where I worked as an executive at the time, so maybe they gave me extra help).

It was lined.

It cost me $650 (WITH my discount.. without would have been $800 or so). Considering inflation - that's probably $1200 today. Dang! I knew! that was an expensive dress. But fiance, now husband of 21 years, LOVED it. Worth the investment.

The lining made it tolerable for me. I hate wool. It itches and scratches, even really good quality. Even cashmere bugs me. I get rashes all over.

So if I were making ANYTHING out of wool, it would get lined.

So what are the reasons not to line a wool knit?

Like I said, enquiring minds want to know.

------
Suo ergo maledicto

Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary. - Steve Jobs

Doris W. in TN
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In reply to Luckylibbet


Date: 10/15/08 0:53 AM

Quote: Luckylibbet

So what are the reasons not to line a wool knit?

My line of thinking is that the knit stretches, lining fabric does not. Why use a stretchy fabric with a lining that has no 'give.' I would definitely line a woven wool dress.
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