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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Broad, Square, Forward shoulders

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Broad, Square, Forward shoulders
How to alter a one piece raglan sleeve?
Dusky
Dusky
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BC CANADA
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Date: 1/3/09 3:18 PM

Hopefully someone can point me in the right direcction with some shoulder alterations. I have square, broad, foreward shoulders, I have tried doing these alterations on a T pattern and they really helped. Now I am trying to fit a pattern with raglan sleeves. The books I have consulted all give the alterations for darted and two peice raglan sleeves One book surguested that fitting alteration wouldn't be nessesary, in a one piece sleeve, however my fleece pulls at the shoulder and the neck gaps a bit at the back and the front is trying to choke me! I think I need the foreward shoulder alteration as a mimimum. Can anyone help?

Julia C
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Julia C  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/3/09 7:10 PM

I would also like to know. I'm trying large upper arms & broad back on a raglan Tee (Ottobre 5/2008)

goodworks1
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goodworks1  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/3/09 8:03 PM

My guess would be that the main alteration would be to relocate the opening for the neck (and possibly lengthen the sleeves)

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Stitchology

Stitchology
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In reply to Dusky


Date: 1/4/09 9:04 AM

You will probably have to do this in stages to see which components work. Start with adding a wedge at the back seam, with extra on the sleeve and back pieces. Start at the original line at the top, widen out towards the center, then taper to nothing at the underarm. Subtract a similar amount and shape off the front seam on both pieces. A quarter inch at the widest point will make a big difference. If you need more added and removed go up by quarter inch increments.

If the back neck still gapes try removing at the top end of the back seam so that your taper goes from less at the top, to more at the middle and nothing at the underarm. You could use a curve tool if it's hard to free hand a smoothe curve.

Cut your pieces to begin with from the next size up in back and your size in front so you have extra seam allowance to work with. Draw your new stitching lines on your muslin and loosely baste your trial seams. When you find the right combination draw it with a marker for your final pattern.

This is an adjustment I always have to make to raglan sleeves and a little extra or less to each seam makes a big difference. Once you have it figured out it's easy to draw it on other patterns by adding and subtracting the same amounts in each place.

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Dusky
Dusky
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Date: 1/5/09 0:45 AM

Thank for the suguestions. I'll try that next version. Good idea leaving extra seam allowences I may not need to remove as much at the front as I add to the back because of the broad square shoulder issues.

Marilly
Marilly
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In reply to Dusky


Date: 1/15/09 2:28 PM

I have this fit issue too and am currently trying out a software draft of a raglan to try fixing it. One thing I know for sure is..I will do better if I use a dart on a one piece sleeve due to the shoulder squareness. I did battle with Kwik Sew 2874 last year and could not get the neckline to lie flat at the sides without adding one.

Vonnevo
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In reply to Dusky


Date: 1/15/09 4:21 PM

Dusky, the book from Singer "The Perfect Fit" has shoulder adjustment instructions & diagrams for raglan sleeves on page 64/65.
Square Shoulders, Forward Shoulders & Broad Shoulders.
Ebay and Amazon sell this book at a very reasonable cost and it is often "worth it's weight in gold".



HTH's
Vonne

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Vonne šOš Brisbane Australia
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Laughter is timeless, imagination has no age and dreams are forever.
We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing.

Rosebeee
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Rosebeee  Friend of PR
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In reply to Dusky


Date: 1/16/09 10:19 AM

Quote: Dusky
my fleece pulls at the shoulder and the neck gaps a bit at the back and the front is trying to choke me!

Try looking up a Forward Neck adjustment.

That sounds more like what you're experiencing.

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Becca
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So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

FloraNature

FloraNature
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Date: 8/15/09 7:19 AM

I have square, forward shoulders, and this is how I would do it. I would angle the sleeve (raise it up) so it matches my shoulder slope, and raise the bodice underarm point by the same amount. Then I would redraw the bodice seam to match at the new points. I would then raise the back neck and lower the front neck. It helps to have a sloper or a moulage as this will show you the angle of the shoulder slope - or you can get someone to trace off your body shape while you stand against a wall.

-- Edited on 8/15/09 7:25 AM --

Nancy K
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In reply to Dusky


Date: 8/15/09 8:55 AM

Looking in Fitting and Pattern Alteration, a multi method approach, there it is, all laid out.
I don't think that I can actually describe this to you, as it is fairly lengthy, so if you can get a copy of this book, I would. I got the best fit on my last jacket, a raglan sleeve, with the opposite of your problem. Narrow, sloping forward shoulder, from this book. I had used FFRP in the past, but the results I got with this book were really excelllent. FFRP doesn't deal well with this alteration.
You will need to adjust both the body of the garment at the seam and the sleeve at the seam for the square shoulder, and then deal with the broad shoulder issue, and then the forward. It is not hard or even complicated, but too hard to write it without illustrations.

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