Date: 4/26/09 0:12 AM

Someone posted a question about understitching, and it got me thinking.

A little understitching (that's done less than a half inch from the seam) has *never* been enough to keep a 1.5" to 2" wide facing from flipping out to the right side of a garment.

Why are the facings always so large? What's the point/purpose?

What other options are there?

This curious mind wants to know! :)

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Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

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Date: 4/26/09 7:24 AM

Quote:

A little understitching (that's done less than a half inch from the seam) has *never* been enough to keep a 1.5" to 2" wide facing from flipping out to the right side of a garment.

Of course not. That is not why you understitch. Understitching (less than 1/4 inch from the seam is best) keeps the seam, not the facing from rolling to the outside of the garment. To keep the facing inside you have to tack the facing at the seams or topstitch.
And if you cut the facing wider than most patterns suggest it is less likely to flop out -- especially if it is tacked down.
To get a nice crisp turn at the seam, press it open before you press it lightly toward the facing and understitch on the right side.

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Date: 4/26/09 10:58 AM

I agree with Vie -- facings usually aren't wide enough to prevent flipping out. I'm sewing a Burda dress for DD and even they had stupid overlapping facings on a sleeveless empire dress. I ignored them and cut the bodice pieces twice and, hence, fully lined the bodice top. It looks better and isn't annoying. Sorry to sound so peevish but I had expected better from Burda! ;-)

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Patti

R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success

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Date: 4/26/09 10:58 AM

If you don't like facings, you can use bias binding turned to the inside and hand stitched down or top stitched.....or you can remove the seam allowance and use a french binding (cut from bias stirps) or fold over elastic. When I use facings I sometimes cut them a bigger than the pattern suggests because nothing says Becky HomeEcky to me more than skimpy facings.

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2009: bought 140 yards, used 184 yards, net increase in volunteer fabric 44 yards ... total stash 385

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Date: 4/26/09 11:00 AM

Wow! I would've *never* thought to actually make the facings *wider*!

I'll definitely have to try that.

The bias binding sounds like a nice option too!

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Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

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Reply to Vie
Date: 4/26/09 11:19 AM

Vie, did you mean to say to under stitch from the wrong side, iow, interior of the garment? I'm a bit confused and probably reading this wrong. I mean, I understitch with the right side of the fabric facing up but I understitch on the facing side rather than the side that faces out. Also I don't butterfly press that seam first as a matter of course except in circumstances dictated by the fabric behavior.

Another reason facings won't lie flat on the underside (in addition to needing tacking) is that the facings are too big (not just too wide) to roll neatly to the inside of the garment. Facings should be smaller than the neckline. In Armstrong's second edition (which I have), I think it showed facing and neckline to match evenly. Someone sent me scans from her fourth edition, and this time she shows to make facings reduced by 3/8" per side. eek!

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http://fashion-incubator.com
Lessons from the sustainable sewing factory floor

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Reply to Kathleen Fasanella
Date: 4/26/09 12:14 PM

I'm trying to picture this (no spatial ability)..when the facings are smaller..do you mean lengthwise? If the facings are reduced by 3/8", you would then have to stretch the facing to match the neckline. Would this work with all fabrics? I can picture a wool or a knit, but would this work with a stable cotton for instance? Or am I completly confused and not understanding what you mean?
thank you,
jan

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2009
Fabric in..45.5 yds/??????
fabric sewn..Stash Contest 41 yds
After contest Stash sewn 35.75 yds
New Fabric sewn 17.50 yds
Fabric Donated 12 yds

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Date: 4/26/09 2:54 PM

jannw - Yes, I think that is what she means. The idea is to have a smaller circle (the facing) inside the larger circle (the garment) it is more likely to stay inside because it is smaller. At least, that is what I'm understanding.

But 3/8" per side? That seems like a lot. Over what type of length? What size? 3/8" per side could be interpreted as 3/8" on each end of each section (back, right front, left front - so 6 times) of a size 6 crew neck top. Or it could be interpreted as 3/8" from each end of the entire facing (so twice for the entire neckline) of a size 24 wide shoulder v-neck. The proportional difference between the neckline and the facing vary rather dramatically between those two scenarios.

In other words, I don't get it either.

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With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.
Fabric = clothing (some assembly required) (from Re Becca's DH)

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Reply to Kathleen Fasanella
Date: 4/26/09 3:01 PM

Quote: Kathleen Fasanella

Another reason facings won't lie flat on the underside (in addition to needing tacking) is that the facings are too big (not just too wide) to roll neatly to the inside of the garment. Facings should be smaller than the neckline.

::light bulb goes off::

That makes perfect sense!

It's kind of like the whole turn of cloth concept, isn't it?

Facings (especially necklines) go over a curved area... if you have two pieces of fabric (both the exact same size) laying over, say, a bowl... the fabric on the bottom will peek out from underneath the fabric on top... The fabric on top has to travel ever so slightly further.

I'm going to try trimming down my facings next time I have a project that has them!

You know, this is exactly why in the P/P m5630 pattern I'm just finishing up they had a 'pro tip' to trim the uninterfaced collar and collar band slightly smaller than the interfaced versions so that they'd curve & lay properly!

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Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

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Date: 4/26/09 3:46 PM

Ann, you're right. 3/8" would be too much for a thin fabric, but may be perfect for something thick. It's hard to make a hard and fast rule since we are talking about something that is going inside of something else. You'll need to determine how much smaller your fabric will need to be.
-- Edited on 4/26/09 3:47 PM --

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and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

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