Date: 5/1/09 7:00 PM

Hi everyone,

I am drafting a dress pattern for a contest using a sloper I bought from pattern.stringcodes.com. I bought the misses size 12 sloper. String Codes Design adds a small amount of ease to allow movement (I've compared the sloper to their body measurement chart and I believe they add 1 to 1 1/2" ease). For my traditional fitting dress, I would like 3" ease at the bust, but I am not sure how to do this. I've searched through my sewing how-to books and my pattern drafting book and I am still perplexed.

If anyone can direct me to a source on how to add ease to a sloper or give me a brief list of directions here, I would really appreciate it!

Thanks very much!
Becky

Reply to RebekahAnneF
Date: 5/1/09 9:08 PM

Do any of your resources have info on grading a pattern? I think that might be what you're looking for.

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Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

Reply to RebekahAnneF
Date: 5/1/09 9:11 PM

A good question. In dozens of sources I have never seen this answered. They will tell how to make a sloper, but not explain exactly how and where to add to get "designer ease". They will explain how to get various styles, but not just a simple garment. Until I get a specific answer---and hoping to get it on this board---I will do what I have done in the past.

I just add the amount (1/4"-1/2") to each side seam and the seams of the sleeve.

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OH NO! You've done it just like I told you!!!

That's GEE ell, not GEE EYE

Reply to Rosebeee
Date: 5/2/09 8:06 AM

Rosebeee,

Yes, the book I am using to help me along in this process, Make Your Own Dress Patterns by Adele P. Margolis, shows me how to grade a pattern, but grading isn't what I am aiming to do. I don't want to move up a size, I want to add, as Glbutterfly said, designer ease to the sloper. Specially, I want to add 1 1/2" ease at the bust and 1" ease at the waist.

Here is a response to my question from another forum, tell me what you think about it:

"I know the easy way but I don't know if it is the correct way or not. First you want to draw a line across the apex from center front to the side seam. This is your bust line. To add 1 1/2" to the bust, you divide 1 1/2" with 4 = 3/8", then add 3/8 to the bust line at side seam. Do this to the back as well (back and front bust line are the same level). Last step you will need to re-draw the armhole line. You might keep your shoulder lines or extend them as well. Do the same thing to the waist and re-draw the whole side seam from bust to waist."

Is this the right procedure?
Becky
-- Edited on 5/2/09 8:07 AM --

Reply to RebekahAnneF
Date: 5/2/09 8:26 AM

The Bodice Muslin class I took here on PR says to add to the side seam if you want to add ease. You take the amount of ease you want to add, in your case, 1 1/2 inches in the bust, and divide that number by the number of side seams; in your case, 4, (which is left side front, left side back, right side front and right side back). This is what you add to the side seam on your pattern.

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"Well-behaved women seldom make history"--Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
Living life vicariously with seven sewing machines...and counting...

Reply to Miss Fairchild
Date: 5/2/09 9:29 AM

Beth gave the answer that my drafting class instructor and Marji gave me.

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Cidell
www.missceliespants.com

Reply to Miss Fairchild
Date: 5/2/09 1:16 PM

Hi Beth Pierce and everyone,

Gosh, is that all I have to do? THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR INPUT! You wouldn't believe all the forums I posted this question to, it is so good to have finally figured out this problem. I'm really new to pattern drafting so don't be surprised to find me back with more questions. Thanks again!

Becky

Reply to RebekahAnneF
Date: 5/4/09 11:54 AM

I just found a link to a website that has very well written instructions on how to add ease via the seams and via the slash and spread method. Check it out here.HERE

Becky

Date: 11/2/09 2:33 PM

It is also possible to add ease with the pivot or slide methods, especially if ease is not needed in the sleeves or armscye. I found Nancy Zieman's 'Pattern Fitting with Confidence' very thorough on the subject. I use both methods, whichever seems the best way.
Sue