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resizing a princess seam dress.
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Pink35

Pink35  Friend of PR
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AUSTRALIA
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Date: 5/13/09 7:21 AM

Hi there I am working on M4490 [view D] a McCall's Costume pattern in a size 14.

The problem:
I am a size 12 from neck to chest {including bust}. From chest down I am a size 14.

If I make the dress as it is, the pattern the top from the chest up will be too big. And from the chest down will fit perfectly.

Please tell me what I should do to the pattern?

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Fabric addiction can take over your lounge room if you let it. Just sew more to get rid of your stash. Then your wardrobe will end up just as fat.... it goes around in a circle......around...around .....

KathySews
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KathySews
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Date: 5/13/09 7:36 AM

Is the pattern by chance a multi-size pattern? I suggest you trace the pattern so you maintain the original pattern if you need it. Trace size 12 on top and morph to 14 as you move down. Measure the actual pattern pieces, the ease may be enough that you only need to add a small amount on each piece. 1/2 inch by 6 pattern pieces (12 sides) really adds up.

Making a muslin (test dress) will help you work out where to make the changes. The most important fit is the shoulders and top.

Rosebeee
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Rosebeee
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In reply to Pink35


Date: 5/13/09 9:56 AM

Link to pattern: m4490

Looks like the size 12 and the size 14 are in two different envelopes.

When tracing out the pattern I'd trace it so that the chest and up are about 1/4" to 3/8" smaller all over.

On your 14+ multi-size pattern look to see how far apart the lines are for the different sizes, then based on that draw your own "size 12" line.

Definitely do some tissue fitting or making of a muslin.

So you know, in this kind of style (and most other dresses) it's MUCH more important to buy a pattern size that fits your neck & shoulders. It's a LOT easier to adjust a pattern larger (or smaller) at the bust/waist/hips, than it is to adjust a pattern at the neck & shoulders area.
If you can, I'd go back to the store and buy this pattern in the smaller envelope size that has the size 12 your neck/shoulders/bust needs.
-- Edited on 5/13/09 9:58 AM --

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Becca
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Pink35

Pink35  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/8/08
Posts: 34
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In reply to Rosebeee


Date: 5/15/09 4:54 AM

Thank you Rosebee this has been helpful. I am on a tight budget and can't afford to by another copy.

Cheers.

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Fabric addiction can take over your lounge room if you let it. Just sew more to get rid of your stash. Then your wardrobe will end up just as fat.... it goes around in a circle......around...around .....

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
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New Hampshire USA
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Date: 5/15/09 11:02 AM

You can use this tip of mine to grade down the bodice portion one size.

RobinMCPA
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RobinMCPA  Friend of PR
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In reply to Pink35


Date: 5/15/09 1:31 PM

I would question whether you actually need to change the sizing on the bottom, as that bottom section looks pretty "flowy". The other thing I do sometimes with princess seams is either sew the top part with 5/8" seam allowances and morph into 3/8" further down in larger areas - or I'll sew the side seams with 3/8" seam allowances (all the way down from top to bottom) and sew some of the other vertical seams with 5/8" seam allowances. Seems goofy, but it works for me.

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