Date: 6/2/09 6:10 PM

I never am sure how to finish the crotch seam allowance in pants. Do you clip the seam allowance above the curve so that you can press the seam allowances open above the curve? Do you serge the seam allowances together? Does it depend on the fabric you are using? I am making pants out of a cotton/poly twill. Should I clip above the curve and trim below? What do you do? I am alwaya a bit leery when it comes to clipping seam allowances.

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Elaine

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Reply to Elaine Dougan
Date: 6/2/09 6:22 PM

I generally do a flat-fell seam, like bluejeans.

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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

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Date: 6/2/09 6:23 PM

I do what you were going to do.

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Date: 6/2/09 6:30 PM

I serge the 2 seams together leaving about a 1/2" seam allowance the whole way thru the crotch. Check out some of your RTW pants to see how they're finished thru the crotch.

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Consew 7360R, Singer 14U overlock, Necchi 521, Pfaff 900, US Blind Stitch 718-2, Singer New Family 12K treadle

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Reply to sewsally
Date: 6/2/09 6:39 PM

I'm not sure what I was going to do. What do you do?

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Elaine

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Date: 6/2/09 7:01 PM

I usually straight stitch twice, once on the seam and once inside the seam allowance about 1/8-1/4" away. Then I'll usually serge too. I feel like the extra set of straight stitching might help prevent the "ripping out" factor on that stressed seam! I don't clip, unless you mean at the fly zip area. I do clip there, and serge the seam allowances separately so they can be pressed open above the clipped area.

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When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt. --Henry J. Kaiser

http://jemimabean.blogspot.com/

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Date: 6/2/09 7:07 PM

I sew two rows of straight stitching and serge the edge in the lower area. I don't clip above it , but press it open, with the transition are just pressed flat. I trim closer than 1/2" that's little wide, Clipping will weaken the seam, though many clip one side below a front fly. Sometimes I do and sometimes I don't.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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Date: 6/2/09 7:31 PM

I stitch the seam with a very narrow zigzag (.5), trim the seam allowance in the lower crotch to about 3/8" and serge that.

Once I know the pattern fits and I can use it with minimal fitting, I finish (serge) the CF and CB seams before I sew them. That lets me put in a fly zipper without having to struggle to get a professional looking finish on all the seam allowances near and below the fly.

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Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'

"If swimming is so good for your figure, how do you explain whales?" -- Dave Barry

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Reply to Elaine Dougan
Date: 6/2/09 8:32 PM

Lemme think about this: I've been doing it so long on autopilot...

OK, once I'm sure the fit is good, I straight stitch the crotch seam with two rows right next to each other. Then I trim the bottom curve of the crotch seam (the part you actually sit on) to 1/4"-3/8", tapering out to the full 5/8" at the CB waist so that I have a little extra in case I need more ease sometime. I always do a fly front, so the crotch seam in front is 1/4", up to the clip below the fly facing.

Finally, I serge each edge of the seam separately. This allows me to press the CB part of the seam open.

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Date: 6/3/09 4:02 AM

I stitch the first row, then stitch again about 1/8" away over twill tape.

I then serge the whole seam.

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Clare

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