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Top stitching seams
myisonu
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myisonu  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/14/09 5:58 PM

I plan to triple top stitich a pants side seam. Should I serge the two seam allowances (as one) first, on the inside, then press to one side, then top stitch from the front; or, should I press the seam allowances to one side, topstitch from the front and trim the excess on the inside? The pants are in a cotton twill type fabric and are for play clothes but I still would like to have them look like they are sewn well. Would the serging interfere with the look of the top stitching? Opinions please-has anyone already tried this and determined a preference? Thank you!

Sewinglady1947
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In reply to myisonu


Date: 6/14/09 6:33 PM

I always stitch with regular sewing machine and serge leaving enough to topstitch on (as in safety stitch). Then you can press in direction you want your seams to go. A safety stitch is a serged seam with a chain stitch next to it. If you don't have the seam to topstitch on it does't topstitch good.
-- Edited on 6/15/09 12:32 PM --

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Nancy K
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In reply to myisonu


Date: 6/14/09 7:12 PM

Are you talking about 3 lines of topstitching or using a triple stitch? If the latter I recommend using a topstitch needle use double thread, set a 3.5 length and tighten your tension on top and you will have the best looking topstitching that is easier to control than a triple stitch. I agree about sewing your seam, press it together and then serge it, leaving the line of sewing as your 'safety' stitch.

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myisonu
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In reply to Nancy K


Date: 6/14/09 7:42 PM

Well, I plan to have three rows of stitching, one next to the other. I know it would be fine to do this with the seam allowance pressed under, beneath the layer of fabric I'm stitching on. What I am trying to figure out before doing it is, if I serge the seam allowances first, and press the seam allowance under as I would if I did not serge them, and then top stitch; will the look of my top stitching be effected by the bulk of the serging underneath it? (I can try a sample of course but I wanted to see what others do- I'm sure there are those who have done this, or intentionally not done this!) Thanks again.

Edited - OK I did a test and found that it worked really nicely, even with the serging behind it. I added a 4th row just to be sure I was testing over the serged part, and again- really nice top stitches. Yeah!
-- Edited on 6/14/09 10:52 PM --

tourist
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In reply to myisonu


Date: 6/15/09 10:30 AM

Yes - I regularly serge seams then press to the side and use a twin needle to top stitch. The serging underneath is fine even on french terry. On something like a bottom weight cotton or denim, my only concern would be going through all the layers, but as you have discovered, it is pretty easy to do a test run.

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myisonu
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In reply to tourist <<
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Date: 5/18/13 10:10 PM

Don't know if you are still around the thread,...but I just read this! Better late than never?... (4 years later!). Thanks for your reply! I may have read it back then but I'm surprised I didn't reply. The project I was working on at the time came out great - my son was about 9 years old and wore the pants all the time!

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