Date: 6/28/09 3:05 PM

I'm sewing this dress, view B http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8234.htm and I can't figure out how I'm going to hem the sheer handkerchief part.

I have a 2mm rolled hem foot that I'm kind of getting the hang of. It looks great, but I'm worried about the corners (and messing up half way through the long hem).

I was also considering a rolled hem on the serger, which I've never done before because I just got the serger (Brother 3034d) But correct me if I'm wrong, I'd need 3 spools of matching thread? The dress is turquoise like in the picture, and I definitely wouldn't want to use white or black or anything else non-matching. I don't think the stores around here even have turquoise serger thread, their stock is pretty basic.

I'm open to any other options as well. Thanks!

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Date: 6/28/09 3:53 PM

I would recommend doing a "Calvin Klein hem". It will look very much like your hemming foot hem from the top and have two lines of stitching under the bottom. I think you will be more successful with this than the little hemming foot. You are right that the corners can be tough. I fear that the serging will not hold well on the bias and will pull out after a couple of washings.

This link should tell you how to do the "Calvin Klein hem". If it does not work, then go to google books and look for a book called "Easy Guide to Sewing Skirts" by Marcy Tilton and searching inside the book for "Calvin Klein hem"

Easy Guide to Sewing Skirts by Marcy Tilton

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Becky

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Date: 6/28/09 4:10 PM

I would do a serger rolled hem.

Experiment with your stitch length to make sure the rolled edge doesn't act like perforated paper on your sheer fabric though.

Try a fancy thread like Candelight or Decor 6--very shiny, very pretty on a rolled edge.

Oh...on the serger rolled hem, the most visible thread is the looper thread which covers the edge. I don't necessarily match my needle thread and generally use basic colors like grey, black, white, and cream which blends with most fabrics.
-- Edited on 6/28/09 4:12 PM --

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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing (Janome Memory Craft 3000), Serger (Pfaff Hobbylock 786), Embroidery (Janome 300E)

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My blogging spot: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

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Date: 6/28/09 7:17 PM

If you are planning on washing the dress use Wonder Tape to turn up the hem both times before stitching. If you are planning to dry clean just use it on the first turn for the hem if the Wonder Tape shows through on the front. Wonder Tape doesn't come out with dry cleaning. Fabric cut on the bias stretches if you breathe on it and the Wonder Tape helps control that problem.

Don't use your rolled hem foot for anything cut on the bias. You have to hold the fabric a bit taught for it to work well which will stretch the fabric.

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Reply to Tam Lin
Date: 6/28/09 7:33 PM

Here are Burda's illustrations for making a "baby hem."

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Reply to Tam Lin
Date: 6/28/09 10:04 PM

Hi, Tam Lin! I just did a post on one of my favorite ways to do sheer hems. It is probably the simplest method I have tried and the hems are truly sheer and very very tiny. Sheer Hem Technique

There is also another method I use, learned many years ago from Threads magazine. It works best when both sides of the fabric are the same. Piped Hems

Hope these techniques help you. I HIGHLY recommend you make samples trying out the different technques and various needles, tensions, etc. Good luck!

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

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Reply to solosmocker
Date: 6/28/09 10:54 PM

Very, very cool techniques, solosmocker!

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Date: 6/29/09 0:01 AM

Thanks everyone for all the great ideas! I'll have to give them all a try, I love learning new techniques.

solosmocker, do you mean you position the folded edge a hair to the right of the needle? I'm having trouble picturing how it'll make the fabric roll... I've never worked with sheers before. I'll have to try it and find out :)

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Reply to Tam Lin
Date: 6/30/09 7:38 AM

What you want is for the left swing of the needle to be on the fabric and the right swing of the needle to be off the edge, barely. For that I find putting the edge just a hair to the right of center works. Try some samples. The starch is what really helps this all happen. I wouldn't even think of doing this without the starch. This could also be affected by the fabric used. This is much easier than it looks. The trickiest part is trimming the leftover seam allowance on the back side. For this I use regular scissors. I am a big fan of pelican billed scissors but found for me the shears worked best.

You also want to sample to make sure the starch is OK on your fabric.

Good luck and let me know how it works outs.

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

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Date: 6/30/09 8:31 AM

Samples of possible treatments / methods seems to be the key here... Let us see the end result... this discussion has been quite informative. Solosmocker, I enjoyed the link.. that was one sheer & pretty example and s well done. Thanks!

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... cleverly disguised as a responsible adult!

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