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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Pants...short waisted, but big but!!!

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Pants...short waisted, but big but!!!
how to alter?
leeannz
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leeannz
Intermediate
ON CANADA
Member since 5/21/08
Posts: 6
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Date: 7/15/09 8:02 PM

To make a long story short I have constructed many pants using many patterns and styles with zero success!!!!I think my problem is this: I need a plus size pant pattern with my measurements. Retail I wear a 20... in patterns I measure about a 24. So I cut the 24 pattern and it is huge. Then I try the 22...a closer fit but it is always too long in the front (droopy crotch area) and very short in the back. Does anyone else have this issue? Where do I start with altering the pattern?

AnneM
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AnneM  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MA USA
Member since 7/30/02
Posts: 7001
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Date: 7/15/09 8:36 PM

My 2 cents: start with the smaller size. Try using the rise from a smaller size in the front, maybe even going shorter. Then use the height of the size 24 in the back. You might need to 'scoop' the back crotch seam more to give yourself extra space. One of the things I always messed up at this point was - you need to also give yourself that space back on the side seam.

Try taking the Pants Muslin class next time it is offered here on PR. I just took it. I haven't finished the pants due to some life interruptions, but the draft pair was pretty good!

------
With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.

Michelle L
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Michelle L  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MO USA
Member since 1/20/08
Posts: 1299
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In reply to AnneM


Date: 7/15/09 8:43 PM

I actually cut a different size in front than in the back. You can also add a wedge to the back crotch seam to give it some more height. I do that to cover the "junk in the trunk" and then tilt that seam so that I don't have waistband-gap. Does that make sense?

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Riesie
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Riesie  Friend of PR
Advanced
VA USA
Member since 1/23/08
Posts: 469
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Date: 7/15/09 8:51 PM

I have the same dilemma. You should check to see if you have a waistline that dips down in front, as I do (it is very common). I usually have to do what Michelle (MLoyet) suggestz, using a larger size in the back, with a wedge above the hipline AND a scooped out crotch curve, plus I have to lower the waistline in front by about an inch.

Also check where the biggest diameter of your hips are relative to what's indicated on the pattern - my biggest hip circumference is at 5 3/4 inches (side seam), not the 8 or 9 inches that's standard on patterns, which means I have to shorten the pattern that much above the hip line and then add it back in underneath the hip line - that's the only way for me to get the fullest part of the pattern at the fullest part of me. HTH

------
Marie

visit my blog: www.madewithintent.blogspot.com/
or my Etsy store: www.etsy.com/shop/Riesie

Thanks!

sewme47
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sewme47
Intermediate
IL USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 725
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In reply to Michelle L


Date: 7/16/09 0:16 AM

Michelle,
Can you provide a good resource that explains this pattern adjustment? I have tried making the "wedge" adjustment with so-so results, but I don't know how to fine-tune it. Any suggestions as to where I can learn more? Thanks!
Laura

------
A balanced diet is a cupcake in each hand.

Michelle L
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Michelle L  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MO USA
Member since 1/20/08
Posts: 1299
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In reply to sewme47


Date: 7/16/09 5:40 AM

Quote: sewme47
Michelle,

Can you provide a good resource that explains this pattern adjustment? I have tried making the "wedge" adjustment with so-so results, but I don't know how to fine-tune it. Any suggestions as to where I can learn more? Thanks!

Laura

Oh, goodness, I don't even know of one!

I never actually saw it in a book or anything, Ody pm'd me after my first attempt at pants and suggested it.

So, based on her suggestions, what I did was measure how much more "height" I needed in the back (to cover my underpants, haha) and figured that I needed an additional 2 inches of fabric back there.

Then, I slashed my pattern from the back crotch seam all the way to the side seam at a location about 1 inch above the rear curve.

I then just opened up that slash and taped in tissue into it until it raised the height of the back seam by 2 inches.

My muslin then showed that because I had raised that, I now had back waistband "gaposis." I needed for the pants to follow the curve of my bottom in towards my waist. So, I went back and drew a line on my tissue 1 inch away from the center back seam, and then tapered that down to about the middle of my wedge, and cut away that tissue that was creating the extra room and causing the "gaposis."

If that is completely incoherent, pm me and we can talk more.

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Sallygirl
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Sallygirl
Intermediate
USA
Member since 9/7/08
Posts: 361
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In reply to sewme47


Date: 7/16/09 9:11 AM

Here is a visual for that adjustment: Back crotch wedge adjustment

I have had to do that myself. I seem to have to add to the back length but shorten the front on a lot of patterns.

HTH!

sewme47
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sewme47
Intermediate
IL USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 725
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In reply to Michelle L
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 7/16/09 9:47 AM

Thanks! Not incoherent at all. Your procedure sounds a lot like what I've done myself, but it seems so "hit and miss"......so much guess work. Maybe I just keep thinking there's a magic formula out there somewhere in sewing land that will eliminate the need for numerous muslins, make my pants fit beautifully, make me look 10 pounds thinner, and make my droopy rear look perky and youthful !!
Hey, a girl can dream!!!!!!!!!
Laura

------
A balanced diet is a cupcake in each hand.

Riesie
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Riesie  Friend of PR
Advanced
VA USA
Member since 1/23/08
Posts: 469
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In reply to sewme47


Date: 7/16/09 9:58 AM

Oh, if you find that magic formula, you'll make a fortune from all of us here at PR!!!!!!!!!! And I'll be the first in line.

------
Marie

visit my blog: www.madewithintent.blogspot.com/
or my Etsy store: www.etsy.com/shop/Riesie

Thanks!

sewme47
star
sewme47
Intermediate
IL USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 725
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In reply to Sallygirl


Date: 7/16/09 10:05 AM

Thanks, Sallygirl! I think someone needs to write a book called "Pants Fitting for Big Butts" But seriously, I've seen ladies with ample rear ends that have beautifully fitting pants, so I know it's possible.

Question: when the wedge adjustment is made, it sends the top of the pants pattern out at a weird angle--almost on the bias. This seems to affect the way the pants fit when they are worn for a few hours....the pants start to get droopy. Does anyone else have that problem?

------
A balanced diet is a cupcake in each hand.

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