Date: 7/19/09 11:12 AM

I need to make a dress using a piece of Solstiss Lace for the opening of our lace show, on August 1. I was going to play it easy and safe - finish my vest, which only needs a bit of hand work, a lace shirt or a simple dress with lace overlay. Then, dang inspiration got the better of me again.

Yesterday, I cut out 3 layers of silk chiffon for the overdress - aqua, seafoam and turquoise - an under dress of deep forest 4-ply silk.



I'm embarking on a rather complex interpretation of pattern Vogue 8417 that is going to test my skills.



I made a muslin of the under dress last week. For the first time in a long time, I rolled down my pattern size to match my upper chest measurement. With the dress, a good fit at the shoulders is going to be important, and its much easier to expand a waist than to pull in a neckline and shoulder, especially one that is deep, with pleats.

For the under dress, I added 2" that I needed at the front waist by adding a 1" wedge at the center front of the bodice, pinning the neckline right at the fold and 1" in at the waist. I added 1" to the bottom of the bodice so I could draw my actual waistline by tying a piece of elastic around and marking with a pen.

I used the muslin as my pattern pieces and only had to add 1/2" at the side seams and I should have a good fit.

The overdress is a little more complex. I used a technique that I use with students to identify how the curved pattern pieces fall where on my body That is, simply, pinning them on a dress form. With all the seams on this dress, expanding the bust and waist turned out to be pretty easy. I added 1" at each of the side seam places, which is basically the bodice and skirt side seam, and the head of each of the pleat panels. Then I cut the pleats 1/4" narrower. I'll sew them with a 1/2", instead of 5/8" seam. That should add all the volume I need. I will take the time to hand baste these pieces together, not only because I'm working with 3-layers of silk chiffon, but also to confirm fit and so I can determine how I want these to tier on my body.

Layering different colors of chiffon is something I've been doing a lot of lately. It gives character and depth of color. An asymmetrical swath of beaded will angle down from the right shoulder, through center front and down the panel that crosses center front and runs down to the hip.

I cut all 3-layers of chiffon together, and tailor tacked their markings before cutting. The pieces are cut individually and I surmised that the tailor tacking before cutting would help keep the 3-layers together as I cut and sewed.



I plan to have the layers tier away as they move down. The bodice top and back will be made with all 3-layers of chiffon. I have a piece of aqua silk organza to underline the beaded. This color really helps the colors in the lace to POP, and the beaded will weigh down the chiffon, unless I support it. I'll probably support the neckline and the left side seam above the beaded with a strip of the organza selvage to help with support of its weight.

I'm dropping the aqua from the next panel. The dominant colors through the majority of the body of the dress will be the seafoam, over turquoise and the deep forest, then somewhere along the line, the seafoam will drop away leaving a swath of turquoise to brighten up the dress.

At the base and right I may have the deep forest silk 4-ply as a design anchor for the beaded, or maybe leave that as the under dress.

I haven't decided yet how to handle the last layers. So, I'm working from the top down. I'm waiting to cut the 2-bottom right over layers until I see how the dress falls on my body. I'm leaving more fabric on each layer than I will ultimately keep and plan to cut away layers as the dress comes together on my body, instead of working it out in advance.

I'll try to track as much of my progress as I can here, as well as on my blog.

I've already picked up some new techniques from a post at Artisanssquare. With 3-layers of chiffon, French Seams will be too bulky, but this technique sounds interesting. I'll post how my tests go. I'll accept any other advice anyone wishes to give along the way. As I said, this one is testing my skills as well.
-- Edited on 7/19/09 11:19 AM --
-- Edited on 7/19/09 11:30 AM --

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Susanne
FineFabrics.com
MsFineFabrics.blogspot.com

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Date: 7/19/09 10:45 PM

I'm impressed just reading what you've done so far. Can't wait to see the finished dress.

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Reply to FineFabrics
Date: 7/20/09 4:12 AM

I wonder if you have ANY idea what a marvelous time we will have here @ PR enjoying your work as you go along?

For someone like myself, just getting back into basic sewing after years away, fading eyesight, patience, etc....this sewing voyeurism is a special blessing. Thank you for sharing.

Hugs! and Best wishes.

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Date: 7/23/09 0:56 AM

Never can explain how it is that I can fit a muslin. In this case, we decided I needed another inch added to the side seams. So, I use the muslin as the pattern, cut the silk 4-ply 1/2" wide along the side seams. Make up the under dress, then try it on only to take the 1/2" back in.

Well, I do know why this happens. The muslin is very, well, its very muslin. The silk 4-ply has more give, but a whole inch. I don't think so. That is what always happens and I can never explain. The growing garment.......

Finished my silk 4-ply under dress. The pattern called for the right side of the skirt to be sewn to the wrong side of the bodice, anticipating that the bodice would act as the lining for the overdress. Since I am using silk chiffon for the over dress, I don't want the seams to show and I will use the under dress right side out. I plan to add a bodice lining. So, I sewed the under dress bodice and skirt right sides together.

We'll see if I can get DH to take a picture of the under dress on me and post tomorrow.

The pattern calls for the left side seam to be sewn up to where the zipper will be placed, anticipating that the zipper will be sewn into the overdress, and finished by hand from the inside with the under dress. Once again, since I am making a chiffon overdress, I'll probably reverse this, and sew the zipper into the under dress and hand pick the chiffon of the over dress. I left the side seam open for now.

Onto the chiffon over dress construction tomorrow.....
-- Edited on 7/23/09 1:00 AM --

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Susanne
Fine Fabrics of Santa Barbara
FineFabrics.com
MsFineFabrics.blogspot.com

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Date: 7/23/09 11:35 AM

The deep forest silk 4-ply lining for my dress is so elegant on its own - simple design, exquisite fabric. I hate to cover it up.

I might give a try at employing a trick we all use for travel, but rarely use on formal wear - layering.

I might complete the lining as a dress. Make the silk chiffon over dress, using the bottom layer of turquoise chiffon as the bodice lining. A second, albeit shear, but pretty dress that might be worn over a slip or the deep forest green dress.

Not sure how I'll get the two to work as a unit around the neck and armhole. Maybe sew the silk 4-ply crepe dress 1/4" deeper around the neck, and 1/8" deeper around the armhole. In reverse, sew the seams around the neck at 3/8" and the seams around the armhole at 1/2", so the beaded silk outer layer is a bit higher - 1/2" around the neck and 1/4" at the armhole.

Maybe selectively place ribbons with snaps, like those used to hold bra straps in place at key points - shoulder seam and center front and back. They might work as a unit and still be 2- independent dresses.

The 4-ply crepe is just too pretty to keep hidden all of the time! And its a great idea if I ever hook up with the cruise I am supposed to take. I'll make 2-dresses, maybe 3, out of one.

I've done this with palazzo pants in the past, but never with a formal gown.

I'll leave the silk 4-ply where it is at, and think about this more as I work my way through the silk chiffon layers today.

Any suggestions as to how or why this might work or not?

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Susanne
Fine Fabrics of Santa Barbara
FineFabrics.com
MsFineFabrics.blogspot.com

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Date: 7/23/09 9:21 PM

I don't have a suggestion, but you have to wear this August 1st? Don't get too complicated!

I suppose you could tack layers things together with silk thread to keep them more secure on the 1st wearing. The silk thread could be removed with few marks left behind.

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With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.

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Reply to AnneM
Date: 7/24/09 10:47 AM

The 4-ply under dress is a piece of cake, just put in a zipper, stitch the side seam, construct a bodice lining. Sew them together at neckline and armhole. Sew together at shoulder seams.... Hem.... and if my silk chiffon over dress doesn't work out, or I run out of time..... I can sew some beaded on the silk 4-ply at the last minute. I'll have a beautiful dress for the opening. That will be my fall back plan, but it won't be this dress, so here is where I'm at with the chiffon layer........

Constructed the back last night. I want the bodice and pleats to hold together through all layers as if they are one. I want the skirt to fall in layers.

There are a series of pleats and tucks. It is a challenge to work out which to make in what order, and which to sew as 3-layers, which to sew as 2-layers and which to sew independent of the others.

I'm also questioning the order of finishing the neckline, seaming the shoulders, sides and when to attach the bodice to the skirt.

After studying the pattern instructions, this is the order I chose. When I get a chance I'll post the instructions marked with my revisions so it makes a little more sense.

Finished back neck by sewing aqua and green layer, right side of aqua to right side of turquoise. Sewed crosswise pleats in aqua and green layer together. Sewed pleat in turquoise under layer. Sewed neckline pleats starting at aqua/green layer, passing over neckline seam, keeping seam finish pressed toward turquoise under layer, and followed through to end of pleat on turquoise under layer.

Top stitching the pleats will hold them together as a unit, but I'll wait to do this until later. I might place strings of beads at the top stitched points, and I want to confirm that I won't need to reverse the pieces on one another, as will be the case when I finish the armholes. The beaded top stitching will also help to balance the embellishment throughout the dress and hold it as a uniform design, instead of a pretty dress with a piece of beaded lace.

I'll also wait to under stitch neckline seam until after I attach to the front. I'm waiting to sew the armhole edge until I figure out its relationship in construction to the side seam, given my revisions.

Skirt is just pinned into place now so I could study how I want the skirt layers to fall -- where I want to cut away the moss layer to show the turquoise. I think it best to wait until I construct the front to make the final decision on this cut. There is no turning back once that cut is made.

I've pinned the back to the back of the 4-ply and they are of uniform size, and the chiffon is holding how I want it to hold and falling how I want it to fall.

First hurdle cleared...... Today I cut the beaded and its aqua organza underlining, and construct the front along the same lines as I did the back, except I am going to have to substitute or add, we'll see how it looks, aqua silk organza under the beaded, and add a strip of organza or chiffon selvage around the neckline edge and side seam above to beaded to support its weight without adding bulk to the seams.
-- Edited on 7/24/09 10:56 AM --
-- Edited on 7/24/09 11:02 AM --

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Susanne
Fine Fabrics of Santa Barbara
FineFabrics.com
MsFineFabrics.blogspot.com

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Reply to AnneM
Date: 7/24/09 11:15 AM

Quote: AnneM

I suppose you could tack layers things together with silk thread to keep them more secure on the 1st wearing. The silk thread could be removed with few marks left behind.

The idea is to have 2-dresses in one.

Let's say you're traveling to the event where the dress is to be worn. I will be doing this in November, when I will wear this same dress to the 50th NOGI Awards Gala in Orlando Florida. My husband is President of the AUAS, the organization sponsoring the event. I can wear the simple, elegant under dress to dinner the night before the event, then wear the over dress on the night of the formal event. I can see this working for a cruise, or if attending a wedding and you need something to wear to the rehearsal dinner.

I think snaps along the inner edge of the under dress neckline, at shoulder points, center front, center back and maybe a few points in between, and snaps on ribbons attached at matching points along the inner edge of the chiffon dress, combined with the two actually matching one another will work.

This makes me think I need to add organza or silk chiffon selvage to stay the back neck edge also. I can see the silk chiffon stretching beyond the interfaced 4-ply, and my shoulder line as well, as the day progresses.

If not, I can stitch them together, but I can't see myself doing that on the hectic schedule we'll have to keep in Florida, and its such a temporary fix.... I'd love to see this work as a concept, and we're only a week away from confirming if it will!
-- Edited on 7/24/09 11:16 AM --

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Susanne
Fine Fabrics of Santa Barbara
FineFabrics.com
MsFineFabrics.blogspot.com

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Date: 7/24/09 8:02 PM

I was just studying the lace, trying to decide how I wanted to have the pattern met at the shoulder, and decided, its too risky to cut before I construct and double, triple, quadruple check the fit of the chiffon over dress. I'm going to go ahead and construct it, leaving the pleats and seams and edging that will meet or include the beaded pinned in place, and basted by hand only if necessary. Once I am absolutely sure that everything else is in its place, I'll cut into this beaded.

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Susanne
Fine Fabrics of Santa Barbara
FineFabrics.com
MsFineFabrics.blogspot.com

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Reply to Fine Fabrics
Date: 7/24/09 8:20 PM

Quote: Fine Fabrics

The idea is to have 2-dresses in one. Let's say you're traveling to the event where the dress is to be worn... I can wear the simple, elegant under dress to dinner the night before the event, then wear the over dress on the night of the formal event. I can see this working for a cruise, or if attending a wedding and you need something to wear to the rehearsal dinner.

That is a great idea, I never would have thought of doing the double layer dress that way. You would have to finish the seams so that the seam allowances weren't to obvious, and figure out a way to keep them lined up, but I think that is a great idea.

I admire your patience to finish this. Out of all the thing that I have sew, beaded chiffon is the only thing that I won't touch again. To me it is just like sewing jello with gravel in it.

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http://beccabeckstuff.blogspot.com/

"Clothes do not exist to humiliate their owners. Please do not force garments into performing psychological tasks for which they are not designed." Tim Gunn, A Guide to Quality, Taste & Style

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