Date: 7/23/09 4:23 AM

I'm making my 19 year old daughter a dress and I need to take in the side seams 1/2 an inch more under the arms, tapering to the regular seam allowance at the waist. What is the corresponding alteration that I need to do to the sleeve pattern piece? If it's a pivot/slide thing, could you please explain what I need to do?

I tried drawing a rather poor drawing in Paint to illustrate: The red "stitches" are what I need to do to make the bodice fit my dd. I just don't know what changes I need to make to the sleeve piece.

Thank you!
Ruth

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Ruth
www.sewchic.blogspot.com
www.sewchic.etsy.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/callmeruth/

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Date: 7/23/09 7:30 AM

I would'nt mess with the ease in the sleeve cap, I would try taking it out of the underarm seam and see itf that works, It's not a huge adjustment. Good Luck!

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Reply to callmeRuth
Date: 7/23/09 8:40 AM

Whenever I have to make an alteration like that, I just re-cut the armscye.

This is probably the totally wrong way to do it, but if I am fitting as I am sewing, and end up taking the sides in like what you have illustrated above, I just take the pattern piece, lay it on the fabric lining up the piece with the shoulder seam and side seam. Then I cut out the armscye. It's generally a little "eyebrow-shaped" piece that comes out of the curve of the armscye.

A more experienced (or less lazy!!) sewer might have better advice!

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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

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Reply to callmeRuth
Date: 7/23/09 8:51 AM

Taper the underarm seam the same way. It's a quicker fix. (I used to do this alot before I started using my TNT patterns) Make sure, though, you try this out in muslin, because she might have some FBA issues, which will show up when she raises her arms with the sleeves attached.

Is the reason why you are taking it in because the armhole gapes?

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"Well-behaved women seldom make history"--Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
Living life vicariously with seven sewing machines...and counting...

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Reply to callmeRuth
Date: 7/23/09 10:01 AM

P/S method:

Trace piece to be altered onto a worksheet. do not remove pattern piece
mark SEAM line intersections @ shoulder/armhole
draw SEAM line @ bustline/armhole

now, lift pattern @ bustline/armhole cutting line, mark 1/2" decrease on worksheet below

replace pattern on worksheet
place a pin in the shoulder/armhole seam intersection, pivot the pattern cut edge (in) to meet the worksheet butstline 1/2" decrease mark, now trace the new armhole. keep the pattern at this position.

move the pin to the bustline seam line, then pivot the pattern from this pin to the waist, trace along pattern to meet the waist.

the armscye will remain the same shape, and you will not need to alter.

------
DW: I'm going to cut out my patterns tonight.
DH: Oh Really?! I've wanted you to cut out your patterns for years!
(actual conversation)

We are all stardust.

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Date: 7/23/09 12:56 PM

Thanks for the replies! Yes, I am making a muslin, and I just am not sure what I am doing. I choose the pattern size based on my dd's measurements, but the dratted thing is too big. On the muslin I pinned out 1/2" at the center front fold, pinned out 1/2" under the arms (like my illustration above). Doing this makes the whole bodice fit right.

But

I haven't sewn the sleeves in the muslin yet, and I'm afraid that my alterations will mess up the armhole ease, etc.,

Is it an acceptable alteration to take out from the center front?

I'll post pictures of the muslin when my daughter comes home from work this afternoon. I sure would love to learn more about fitting patterns.

I'm making McCalls 5804--the view in the blue floral:

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/itm_img/M5804.jpg
-- Edited on 7/23/09 12:57 PM --

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Ruth
www.sewchic.blogspot.com
www.sewchic.etsy.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/callmeruth/

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Reply to chloeE
Date: 7/23/09 1:05 PM

I'm going to try this. I attempted something like this (following instructions in Fitting Finesse, but whatever I did seemed to make the bodice piece wider across---from side seam to center front. I may not have done it right....

Quote:

P/S method: Trace piece to be altered onto a worksheet. do not remove pattern piece mark SEAM line intersections @ shoulder/armhole draw SEAM line @ bustline/armhole now, lift pattern @ bustline/armhole cutting line, mark 1/2" decrease on worksheet below replace pattern on worksheet place a pin in the shoulder/armhole seam intersection, pivot the pattern cut edge (in) to meet the worksheet butstline 1/2" decrease mark, now trace the new armhole. keep the pattern at this position. move the pin to the bustline seam line, then pivot the pattern from this pin to the waist, trace along pattern to meet the waist. the armscye will remain the same shape, and you will not need to alter.

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Ruth
www.sewchic.blogspot.com
www.sewchic.etsy.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/callmeruth/

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Reply to callmeRuth
Date: 7/23/09 4:33 PM

Usual alterations are at the side seams for width or (sliding pattern up and down along grainline for length alterations).

If you took out 1/2" from the CF, then you have changed the starting size of the pattern, and therefore the armhole may be too deep and subsequently the sleeve may be too big.

It is important to start with the size pattern that fits the neck and shoulder first.

How did you choose the size you are working with?

------
DW: I'm going to cut out my patterns tonight.
DH: Oh Really?! I've wanted you to cut out your patterns for years!
(actual conversation)

We are all stardust.

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Reply to callmeRuth
Date: 7/23/09 7:09 PM

If this is the muslin, can you move down a pattern size and make it from that instead, adding width in the waist/hips if necessary?

I have never been able to make a pattern according to my measurements -- they would swim on me -- especially from the underarm up. I usually can counteract that by going down 1-2 pattern sizes and increasing width where needed in the side seam from the bust down.

Plus if you're sewing for a 19-year-old, they don't like a lot of ease in most of their clothes.

When I've had to make the adjustment you're talking about, I just taper the sleeve seam correspondingly, as Beth says. It's quick and it works (not sure if it's the correct way, but I doubt most of my adjustments are, though I do try most of the time. ).

That dress will be so CUTE!

Sally

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Date: 7/24/09 0:41 AM

Quote:

I have never been able to make a pattern according to my measurements -- they would swim on me -- especially from the underarm up. I usually can counteract that by going down 1-2 pattern sizes and increasing width where needed in the side seam from the bust down.

This is what I should have done from the first. I chose the size based on my dd's high and full bust measurements (not much difference between the two). But the pattern was big. I probably should have measured the actual pattern pieces.

Anyway, I remade the muslin and finally got a good fit. I did raise the armholes to give more freedom of movement, and I also did a full arm adjustment which I discovered my daughter needed.

I started the dress from "real" fabric, and what do you know---my iron died. Aurghhh!!! I would stay up all night sewing because it's my quiet time, but now I have to wait until I can buy another iron. Any suggestions on that? This Black and Decker is only 4 months old! Okay, off topic. :)

Thank you all for the comments and suggestions. I read them all and found them useful. I'm learning about fitting, and I'm so grateful to have sewing buddies at PR who are so willing to help.

Ruth

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Ruth
www.sewchic.blogspot.com
www.sewchic.etsy.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/callmeruth/

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