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  Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > HotPatterns 3 graces T-shirts - cowl neck top

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HotPatterns 3 graces T-shirts - cowl neck top
help with fit please
RuthieSews
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RuthieSews  Friend of PR
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 1/1/06
Posts: 1285
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Date: 8/17/09 6:54 PM

I measured myself carefully and compared that to the HotPatterns envelope. I am nearest to their size 14, except for my arms which seemed more like a 16.
I cut of accordingly in drapey but cheap fabric and sewed it up.
It looks like this



I will say that I have
- forward shoulders
- smallish bust (b cup) for my frame
- have to make alterations to the upper front of all tops

So the shapelessness is not HotPatterns fault.

I want the slinky gorgeousness on the envelope, and as you can see from my avatar I am not as square in the body as this current cut of the top would imply.

First up its too large everywhere but the hips, I understand that I need to tweak for forward neck and sway back and I can probably manage that on my own however not sure what to do about the front to get a neater fit whilst still keeping the cowl.

------
Sewing in Derbyshire, England
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.com/

emelle
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emelle  Friend of PR
AL USA
Member since 11/22/07
Posts: 506
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Reply to RuthieSews
Date: 8/17/09 10:45 PM

It looks to me like you have way too much fabric in the shoulder and upper bust area here. I think the size you picked is too large for you in this area.

I sewed the cowl and the loop front up and used the measurements for the upper chest as my most important measurement...happens to be a size 12 in HP, just like in most other patterns....that puts the sleeve cap in the right place and makes the neckline perfect.

Then, to accomidate a larger lower body, I extended to a size 14 at the bottom of the armscye and through the bust (I am a 36DD and did not need a fba!) and then graded out to a size 16 at the hips. I added an inverted wedge to the back piece to account for a very large rear...and shabang, a great fitting shirt. Even though I usually have to enlarge a sleeve for biceps largess, I did not in this pattern.

I find that it's most important to get that shoulder seam correct first and work from there. Yours appears way too long (too large a size chosen for your shoulder). JMO, others may have more insight.

michellep74
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michellep74  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 7/19/07
Posts: 2113
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Date: 8/17/09 11:46 PM

I agree that it looks like you could go down a size or two from the neck/shoulders to the hips.

I sewed up the cowl neck version in a VERY drapey rayon jersey, and my neck drape turned out similar to what you see Trudy modeling in the youtube video. My other gut instinct is that your fabric just isn't quite drapey enough. I'd highly recommend sewing up your "real" version in either that cotton/bamboo knit from fabric.com or investing in a rayon knit.

FWIW, I've sewn all three versions now, and as Trudy says, the cowl neck version is the most "relaxed" fitting.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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USA
Member since 12/28/04
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Reply to michellep74
Date: 8/18/09 11:11 AM

I have to agree with Michelle on this. The first thing I thought when I saw your shirt, was one the fabric isn't right for this, and two, it's just too big in the upper body.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Raye Ann
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Raye Ann  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 3/25/09
Posts: 526
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Subject: HotPatterns 3 graces T-shirts - muslin fabric choice Date: 10/4/09 2:57 PM

I am reviving this thread in hopes of getting advice on fitting and muslin fabric!
I have some gorgeous bamboo and lyocell fabrics to choose from for the finished garment. I do, however, want to actually do a muslin (i usually never do them) first to work out sizing and construction issues.
Will a basic poly-something knit give me an idea of the finished top? I know the drape will not be the same, but how close will I get?
I am also going to size down at least one size based on others comments re: fit.
Thanks!

------
Raye Ann

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