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armholes too small
my first BWOF pattern
halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/10/09 11:57 AM

I've finally gotten around to cutting out my first BWOF pattern for a jean jacket. It has a front and back yoke, front and side front, back and side back to it. I had to shorten the yoke. I also shortened the sleeve cap. I've sewn up a muslin and so far it fits nicely except for too small of armholes which I expected. I'm always paranoid about making the armholes TOO big but I do want to be able to have room to wear a top underneath this jacket. I've got a question on the proper way of enlarging the armhole:

1) Do you wait till the side seams are sewn together and then cut the armholes down and if so how do I know how much?

2) Or would I extend the side front and side back pattern out at the armholes...not cutting the pattern piece down but OUT?

My previous jackets I've waited till it's sewn together and cut the armholes down a bit but I'm not quite happy with the fit afterwards.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to halleyscomet


Date: 10/10/09 12:12 PM

I'm not sure why you shortened the yoke and the sleeve cap when clearly it didn't need it if your armscye is too tight.
When you try on the jacket, the underarm seam should be 1/2" lower than your underarm with the arm in the down position for a blouse. A jacket underarm has to fall lower than that, but it depends on what you want to wear with it. Generally a jacket would be about 1/2" to 3/4" lower and a coat or outer wear jacket lower than that.
-- Edited on 10/10/09 12:14 PM --

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halleyscomet
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In reply to Nancy K


Date: 10/10/09 12:45 PM

Nancy, where the yoke gets sewn onto the front, the seam came down really low on me. That's why I shortened it. I always thought if you shortened between the apex and shoulders that you're supposed to shorten the sleeve cap that same amount. Am I wrong on this?

halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
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In reply to Nancy K


Date: 10/10/09 12:46 PM

Okay thanks Nancy but would I do this alteration before or after the jacket is sewn?

Birgitte
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Birgitte
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In reply to halleyscomet


Date: 10/10/09 1:00 PM

In tailoring, the shell is made first. When it fits correctly, the armhole is marked, and a muslin of a sleeve is made and fitted into the armhole. You mark the muslin as fitted, take it apart and use the muslin as the pattern.

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Nancy K
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In reply to halleyscomet


Date: 10/10/09 2:54 PM

Before.

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Nancy K
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In reply to Birgitte


Date: 10/10/09 2:55 PM

That's exactly what I plan to do with the jacket I am making, thanks to you.

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goodworks1
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Date: 10/10/09 7:47 PM

Am I missing part of the conversation here? I'm not sure I get what has transpired....

Generally if you think the yoke is deeper than you like you would change that by shortening it and adding the length to the lower parts of the bodice, but without changing the overall length from the shoulder to the underarm.

But since you already shortened the whole jacket with what is essentially a (an unneeded, right?) petite adjustment above the bust, then you would mark the original armscye (found by using the original pattern pieces rather than the altered ones)

Then you would use the original pattern pieces for the sleeve rather than your altered pattern.

Does this make sense? If not, what am I missing?
-- Edited on 10/10/09 7:54 PM --

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goodworks1
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In reply to halleyscomet


Date: 10/10/09 7:53 PM

Quote: halleyscomet
Nancy, where the yoke gets sewn onto the front, the seam came down really low on me. That's why I shortened it. I always thought if you shortened between the apex and shoulders that you're supposed to shorten the sleeve cap that same amount. Am I wrong on this?

This is true when you are making a petite adjustment above the bustline AND you have relatively small arms/biceps. In other words, if you WANT the bottom of the armscye up higher under your arm and you want to raise the bust point and shorten the overall length of the top, then yes, these two things are what you would do to your pattern.

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ryansmumAria
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In reply to Birgitte


Date: 10/11/09 0:12 AM

Quote: Birgitte
In tailoring, the shell is made first. When it fits correctly, the armhole is marked, and a muslin of a sleeve is made and fitted into the armhole. You mark the muslin as fitted, take it apart and use the muslin as the pattern.




B,
This is an excellent technique. I teach my students to do this with their blouses as well as jackets.

They still cut out their sleeves though. It makes much more sense to make your bodice and collar if there is one, then once you have fitted it you can make a perfect fitting sleeve.

Making test-outs and tissue fitting really are necessary and save so much pain and frustration.
D

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