Date: 10/28/09 7:58 PM

So I am making Jalie's City Coat. I made a muslin size X, it fit okay but I needed a bit more room so I went up two sizes so I could fit regular clothes under it.

I cut it out before I had made my Tshirt and learned SOOOO much about fitting my body. Since this is a muslin I thought I would just sew it.

Now I am at a stage that maybe I can make some alterations. I have just gotten Fit for Real People and the Jacket book by the same authur. I am really working hard to understand this but I am having trouble seeing my body in the book. I know I have to work thru stuff but at the moment I have a coat issue to solve.

Here is what I think. I think the back needs to be taken in but I am not sure where the shoulders should be...does it look like a 1/2 inch in or a full inch???

I still have sloping shoulders and will lift that a bit too.

Anything else. This is a boxy coat but then again, I am a bit boxy

Back of coat
Side View I
Side View II

Any and all help welcome. I am looking forward to the day when this makes sense :)

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Date: 10/28/09 8:31 PM

Looks to me like you may need a rounded back alteration as well as sloping shoulders. I also think you went up too high with your sizing. Are you trying on your muslin with all the type of clothes the coat will be worn over?

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

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Reply to stretch queen
Date: 10/28/09 11:27 PM

I think your coat is made for shoulder pads. This shows in your upper shoulder area on both the back and the front, and will also extend the shoulders to allow for the thickness of the pad. Try folding up a washcloth and rest it on your shoulders and you will see what I mean.

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"Well-behaved women seldom make history"--Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
Living life vicariously with seven sewing machines...and counting...

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Reply to stretch queen
Date: 10/29/09 1:01 AM

I would agree that you need a rounded shoulder adjustment. On your side seam picture, from the neck to the bottom of the armhole, you have a fold that is the fabric straining to be set free. The back is pulling on the from a little and is trying to force it to the back. Also, in the back picture, the yoke seam is not level, another sign that the back is pulling up to go over your back.

Patti

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FABRIC FASTING

Stash yardage: not yet counted

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Date: 10/29/09 1:21 AM

Any chance you're a petite? It looks to me like the hip is hitting you too low.

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Reply to unfinishedprojects
Date: 10/29/09 4:40 AM

Yes I think I am petite. I say I am 5' 4" but really 5' 31/2" I really sit in both camps. I usually buy regular clothes though and only go petite in pants.

Hmmm so much to learn so many clothes to sew. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

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Reply to solosmocker
Date: 10/29/09 4:42 AM

Solomoker,

yes I have tried it on with a sweater. I also make a quick flannel muslin of just the front back with no sleeves in the size x and didn't like the ease I had. You may be right in going up to high. I thought bigger would be better in that at least I can make it smaller.

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Reply to stretch queen
Date: 10/29/09 10:01 AM

This city coat pattern is a bit slouchy and boxy, a more casual shape than the usual wool coat patterns we see in the big pattern companies. It is also made for medium to heavyweight stretch fabrics and it is unlined. Things to keep in mind when considering fit.

Before you make any alterations it might be good to staystitch around the neckline and then clip the curved edge to the seamline so the neckline will sit where it is meant to be. Without clipping that curved edge the neckline is quite a bit smaller than it will be after sewing on the collar.

I suggest trying a shoulder pad in the muslin before doing any shoulder alterations. Something not very thick but fairly wide just to give a touch of structure over the shoulder. You can easily make such a thing yourself. For muslin test purposes just about anything will do, even fabric folded up to the right shape.

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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

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Date: 10/29/09 11:34 AM

Shoulder pads would probably help, but since I don't have this pattern, I cannot be sure of the design: Does this pattern in fact have a dropped shoulder? If not, the back view of your photo suggests to me that the shoulder seam could be a full inch shorter. Those sleeve heads should not be way down there over the curve of your shoulder.

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Date: 10/29/09 12:14 PM

Thank you everyone for your great input. I have gone back to my muslin that I made in size X out of flannel. I made this quickly instead of tissue fitting. It didn't have sleeves so I pinned the sleeve of the "good" fabric to it and the fit is sooo much better. I will post pictures as soon as I can get some cooperation from my 6 yr old son!

I think there were many ideas that might help. One that I cut too big, second that the fabric is suppose to stretch (I do have stretch in this denim). I am researching the FBA since my high bust is a good 3-4 inches smaller than my bust.

I need more room in the hip and that might indeed be a petite thing but I am tackling on issue at a time. I think for now I will just grad out the sizing from the top to the bottom.

The shoulder thing I think is sloped shoulders and I put a wash cloth in as a shoulder pad and that helped a bit. I really feel like I haven't learned enough to recognize some of the issues.

I have a new appreciation for all those who do regular adjustments. I know I will get there and I am trying it one step at at time.

I ripped out all the seams of my coatand will recut, resew and repost. Onward as they say.

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