Date: 11/1/09 11:53 PM

This is Simplicity 2700 "Amazing Fit" pants. These are my first attempt at tailored trousers; I am hoping that these will be my entry into the wool contest.
Here are the photos:
Sim 2700- first try

This pattern includes 3 styles- Slim, Average, and Curvy. I chose to start with 12 Slim. I did this primarily because crotch depth is usually too long in the front for me in many RTW pants, and the slim cut had a significantly higher crotch curve than the other cuts.
They are a little snug- I think that I need a small amount more ease throughout the whole pant (except the legs). Once I looked at the photos, though, I see a few other problems:
wrinkles across high hip on back, wrinkles below bottom, and the dreaded wrinkles in the crotch area. The crotch wrinkles are my biggest problem with RTW.... I am beginning to think it is because my front thighs are very muscular and protrude a bit. I can see this in the side view.
Any suggestions? Should I just go up one size or alter from this size since it is close?
Thanks!

------
Raye Ann

Next page>>

Date: 11/2/09 0:40 AM

Looks like there is no crotch ease in the back. Remove the stitches in the back crotch and inseam and put the pants back on. You will see where you have to fill in with fabric.

I suspect you need a longer crotch extension in the back and a different shaped back crotch curve... less scooped.

Next page>>

Date: 11/2/09 0:44 AM

For the front, pull up the pants a little bit. If that makes the puff go away, then lower the waist band.

I think if you let out the side seams about 1/4 inch on each side, you will eliminate some of the other horizontal lines.

Next page>>

Date: 11/2/09 0:49 AM

caveat: am new to fitting
looks like you need more room around your derriere

let out the side seams in that area, and see what happens (the side seam looks like it is pulled to the back a bit)

you might also need more room in the back inseam (extend the point horizontally)

------
http://strickeritis.blogspot.com/

Next page>>

Reply to Raye Ann
Date: 11/2/09 3:07 AM

Not a bad beginning at all, but your profile shot does show indeed that you have muscular thighs. For the pants to hang smoothly there, you need a "fall" from the waistband that is straight down in profile. The pants pull in at both the front and back crotch, indicating that the bottom of the crotch curve, the part that you actually sit on, is not long enough front to back.

However, the pants are also a tad too snug overall. I think one could almost make out any tags on the underwear, actually. If this were my muslin, I'd go up a size, or trace my pattern between the current size and the next size up. On the third hand, in my experience Burda pants have the most realistic sitting area, and at this point, I am pretty sure I'd get myself a similar Burda pattern, measure myself according to the chart that's usually on the pattern pieces, circling my 'size' at each region, and start fresh.

One more thing: You might have a bit of a flat bum. The wrinkles under your seat indicate this possibility, and the cure would be one of Debbie's Fish-Eye darts.
-- Edited on 11/2/09 3:13 AM --

Next page>>

Reply to Raye Ann
Date: 11/2/09 8:05 AM

You definitely need to remove excess fabric below your butt, and above the knee. If you run a line down from your butt to the floor you'll see that your calves extend past your rear end. One method to see if this is enough for you is to widen the back leg from the knee down on the inner and out seam back piece only. If this is not enough pin out a fisheye below the butt until they hang smooth. There is a good tutorial for a flat butt, but it that you migh try before doing a real 'fisheye'. It is Ann Rowleys method You also need to scoop out some from the back crotch, 1/4" at a time. The front crotch is always an issue that is harder to solve, at least for me. I pin fit a paper pattern ala PFRP after countless muslins, and the thing that I noticed, and you wouldn't notice this in the muslin, is that the df crotch was the wrong shape. It didn't follow the center of my body all the way to the crotch, which it must. I the paper pattern the seam line of the crotch must touch the body. In fabric it will be longer. here This is a link to Sigrid's compilation of internet tutorials, fitting page. If you scroll down you'll also find Debbie Cook's fisheye tutorial.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Next page>>

Date: 11/2/09 1:02 PM

SewSally, Lara, Elona and Nancy K,
Thanks so much for the input. I knew that they were snug, and thank you for all of the other suggestions of alterations. I am going to make another muslin 1 size up, still in the slim fit and see how many problems that alleviates. I have looked at the tutorials posted and will see what applies once I have more ease in the pants. I will repost the progress!
Thanks again,
Raye Ann

------
Raye Ann

Next page>>

Reply to Raye Ann
Date: 11/2/09 2:40 PM

First of all, I'm not expert on fitting, but that may be because I don't usually have to do a lot of it, but personally I think you have a great start. In fact, at first glance, I really only think the front crotch needs to be shortened. The rest looks pretty darned good!

Have you considered using the same size but just using the regular or curvy fit instead? If you move up a size you are likely to have longer/deeper crotches, and depending on how much ease you like there, you might have to make more adjustments than just moving to the regular or curvy fit (which would accommodate a more muscular thigh, I would think).

I have this pattern, and possibly I don't quite know the definition of "trousers," but these pants seem to be more casual in style than trousers would be, and thus would also be more fitted also. I think of trousers hanging basically from the waist and not really fitted at all, whereas more casual pants would be fit a little closer to the body, like these, especially with the lower contoured waistband.

That's just my 2 cents, but I tend to be a minimalist when it comes to fitting and do the least amount of adjustments necessary in order to avoid overfitting something, and sometimes one adjustment leads to another, when in reality maybe none is needed at all.

Next page>>

Reply to Sallygirl
Date: 11/2/09 5:07 PM

Thanks for the input. I compared the slim, average, and curvy fits by measuring the flat pattern piece. Not only did the average and curvy have more ease at the waist and hip than the slim in the same size, but the crotch was significantly deeper in both as well. I had already decreased the SA in the 12 about 1/4" in several places, so I thought maybe going up one size would be better. Not sure, but will try it.
I don't know if I am using "trouser" vs. "pants" correctly- but what I am going for is a very fitted nice pair of wool pants that look like styles from JCrew or Banana Republic(where I usually buy from). They will be worn for work. Nice JCrew pants, unless bought on sale, are well over $100- and I still have to compromise on fit. I usually need the RTW8 for the waist, but sometimes crotch is too long. Sometimes I can wear the 6 through the crotch and hips, but waist is too tight.
I will post again as soon as I get the next muslin together. I think I will have to make an adjustment for the extra fabric under the bottom area and for the prominant thighs and calves.

------
Raye Ann

Next page>>

Reply to Raye Ann
Date: 11/2/09 6:57 PM

That's good to know about the comparisons. That's one of the reasons I haven't tackled them yet -- knowing which category I fit in. I'm small but also have curves so not sure where that puts me. I also have a short front crotch and longer back one. I am probably considered average by pattern standards, but I just haven't taken the time to make the comparisons to decide which one I would use for when I DO get around to them. It's a great pattern and reminds me very much of the type of pants I buy at Ann Taylor Loft. I look forward to seeing yours. Even your muslin looks quite promising! I just finished Vogue 1051, and that is the best-fitting pants pattern I have ever attempted. If you haven't tried that one, it's well worth it.

Next page>>