Date: 11/2/09 2:56 PM

Hi everyone

I am working with a RPL woven fabricwith stretch both ways. Stretch content is between 5 & 10 % ( Bolt wasn't labelled at store).

I have made a pant and skirt from this fabric and this has been my observation.

Although I cut the fabric in my size (based on the pattern), I have had to take in the side seams excessively during fitting ( as much as 2 inches).

The ease in the finished garments should be btwn 1-2 inches as the pant is a semi fitted burda pattern and skirt is self drafted.

I just dont get it... is the fabric growing every time I wear it or what? Could It be that my measurements are off?

Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong?

Thanks

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very new beginner

Reply to mamaore
Date: 11/2/09 7:21 PM

I have sewn a number of stretch woven fabrics. Each one has a different amount of stretch, and the lycra % is not necessarily indicative of how much they will stretch.

I fit the garment by trial and error. For instance, I am currently working on a vest. The woven non-stretch muslin fit perfectly, but the stretch woven good fabric is too big. It is a princess seam in fairly stiff fabric. The bust is too big and looks oddly inflated, practically standing out on its own! I will have to unpick the topstiching and the overlocking and take in that seam somewhat....a bit of a nuisance.

I don't know of any more precise way to approach it, perhaps someone else does.

Reply to mamaore
Date: 11/2/09 8:01 PM

Yeah it grows. Some stretch fabrics are evil and what seems to fit perfectly when you fit them are falling off at the end of the day. It really depends on the amount of stretch and how good it springs back. The less stretch the better in my mind.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Date: 11/3/09 10:44 AM

Thanks ladies, so its the fabric and not me.

Thats good to know.

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very new beginner

Date: 11/3/09 4:21 PM

I read a review where the reviewer figured in some negative ease when she works with stretch fabrics--basically going down a size.

I've noticed with my stretch jeans, they need to be skin tight when I first put them on because they stretch in the course of a day. I just made several skirts and should have included negative ease with one in particular, because now it stands away from my body at the hips--kind of odd looking. The others are fine, but would be better if I took them in even more.

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Rank amateur sewer--or is it "sewist?"

Reply to mamaore
Date: 11/3/09 6:28 PM

>>The ease in the finished garments should be btwn 1-2 inches as the pant is a semi fitted burda pattern and skirt is self drafted.

My own personal experience with this is that while 1-2" of ease may work for a non-stretch woven fabric, it is too much for a stretch woven. I personally like about 0-0.5" of hip ease in my pants. Stretch wovens seem to also work better for more fitted styles, not semi-fitted.

Btw, yes the fabric does grow as you wear it. It then shrinks back after laundering. This is part of the fabric's nature. HTH

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/
**Sew for the fun of it**

Reply to Sew4Fun
Date: 11/3/09 7:51 PM

Quote: Sew4Fun

Btw, yes the fabric does grow as you wear it. It then shrinks back after laundering. This is part of the fabric's nature. HTH

Because of this, I find the "trick" is to fit the garment (usually pants) to match the fit of how they are (would be) fresh out of the dryer. I can still button/zip and move, but they are snug until I do 2 deep knee bends.

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"I base most of my fashion taste on what doesn't itch.” ~ Gilda Radner
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http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Reply to Debbie Cook
Date: 11/3/09 8:23 PM

I've come to this conclusion too. Otherwise they are just too big to be comfortable. I am making a pair now and I am fitting them tight in the hip and waist.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com