Date: 11/4/09 9:07 AM

This is the pocket I'm using although on a different coat. My coat has the same shoulder princess seams. This is from BWOF 12-2006 #115

The pieces include the pointed rectangular pocket band and a very small pocket bag. The pocket bag couldn't hold more than a chapstick and certainly not a hand.

I cannot wrap my brain around the BWOF instructions Hard to believe, I know. Do any of you experts have any suggestions? I'll be using ultra suede for the pocket band. How would you install this pocket? I'm going to do some experimenting on scraps.

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Date: 11/5/09 10:35 AM

I would try inserting the zipper in that shaped piece, and topstitch onto the front, leaving the seam open underneath it. Then you just need to worry about sewing on the pocket bags (which of course you can make as big as you want! ). Usually you just sew them onto the SA's on both sides of the opening. I think Burda likes you to sew along the seamline, which means both of the pocket pieces can be the same shape. Then you just press them to the center and sew the pocket pieces together.

Reply to cindyann
Date: 11/5/09 1:21 PM

I just made zippered pockets in my black jacket, but not in a seam. For these I made what Claire Schaeffer calls a magic window pocket. You mark the pocket so that it can be seen on the outside and use silk organza to sew the rectangle then it is cut out to within an 1/8" of the sewing line and turned inside. You understitch, topstitch the edge of the pocket to keep it in place, then attach an underpocket. It's like sewing a welt pocket without the welt. YOu could make this in the applied piece and than do the opening int the seam as explained in the link below. This is from Sew Any Pocket. I am planning on putting an exposed zipper in a seam for my leather skirt and couldn't find any instructions on how to put it in a seam and was given this link for making an opening in a seam. It could be adapted for an in seam pocket. You don't sew it to the outside, obviously and you'd need to make a leather facing for the underpocket to keep the lining from showing.

here
-- Edited on 11/5/09 1:23 PM --

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Reply to cindyann
Date: 11/5/09 3:02 PM

Hey Cindyann, I just made a BWOF jacket that had a zippered pocket on the front; when I get home tonight I'll post the instructions. They were actually quite clear and it seems that it was pretty easy...now THAT'S hard to believe!



p.s. it's this jacket, you can see the zippered pocket in the link to the "close up of details"

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Sewing is my therapy!

Date: 11/5/09 3:07 PM

Thanks everyone! I think I've figured out what BWOF wants to have happen, just not sure it's the best method. I still need to play around with it a bit.

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Reply to cindyann
Date: 11/5/09 3:13 PM

p.p.s. I forgot to mention - that is one MAHHHHHHvelous jacket!

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Sewing is my therapy!

Reply to Irene Q
Date: 11/5/09 5:29 PM

I agree with Irene. It'd be relatively easy to put a pocket in the seam with an open mouth, like a pants pocket; I'd stitch the zipper onto the patch, then topstitch that over the pocket mouth.

I'd find the pocket to be easy. it's my crappy topstitching that'd be the problem for me.

Date: 11/5/09 6:04 PM

Making a sample is always the best way to proceed when you aren't sure of the best way to do it. Make enough samples so that you are comfortable enough to make it on leather.
The same thing is true about topstitching . Practice and two feet make it much easier. I have a foot with a center flange for edge stitching and I move my needle over the clicks needed to move the needle off of center. The other foot has a flange and sews a 1/4" line or more if you move over your needle.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com