Date: 11/4/09 5:45 PM

Hi everyone.
I am currently working on McCall 5804 which I'll say up front is perhaps a bad choice of pattern. I tissue fitted the 16 pleated bodice, and it seemed too small, so I made the 18. The sleeves were TINY! The 16 sleeve had NO ease, and the 18 had minimal. I did a full bicep adjustment on the 18 and its still tight. I'm about to ditch the bodice and remake it again with the crossover bodice and sleeves. (gathers a bad choice for DD bust =(

So my question is - it this sleeve issue caused by using my high bust size (38" -16) for the bodice, when in fact the sleeve for my full bust size (42" - 20) might fit better? This is a bit theoretical as this pattern only goes to 18, but this is the first woven sleeve I've made for myself and I would like to avoid these problems in the future. I'm planning on making a woven shirt next and know that I need to start with a 16 with a FBA, but what size sleeve should I start with?

Is this a plus/busty problem? I personally feel that my arms are not particularly large or small for someone my size. They correlated with my other upper body measurements when I checked with the Ottobre and Burda body measurements some time ago.

I'll try to post some pictures tonight, but would love your feedback.

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Claire - Melbourne, Australia

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Reply to ClaireEmily
Date: 11/4/09 6:24 PM

It has to do with your bicep size. It's easier to see this in Burda where they give you the bicep size. The amount of ease varies by what type of garment you are making and your own preference. I make a size 16 in the high bust, do an fba and increase the bicep size because my biceps matches a larger size, but if I were to cut that size it would give me too much to ease into the armscye. So the best solution is to do a full biceps adjustment that doesn't increase the size of the cap. You need to know your biceps measurement and then flat pattern measure the pattern at the underarm seam line. Sandra Betzina has a chart of her ease preferences, and the point is that it is her preference, and will vary. Measure a blouse that you like the fit of and compare the two. A coat or jacket needs more ease to fit over other clothing than a blouse will.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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Date: 11/5/09 10:24 AM

I often have this problem. I would say that part of it is from using the high bust measurement, and part of it is from using a non-plus size pattern on a plus size body. (Since you posted in the plus-size forum, I'm assuming that you're a little "fluffy" all over, not just in the DD's. ) To some extent, it doesn't really matter - I just make sure to always check the sleeve width by measuring the pattern, before cutting anything out.

I'm not sure why the bicep alteration isn't working. Sounds like you just need to make a bigger alteration. If this pattern went up to a 20 you could try using that sleeve, too, although you'd need to ease in the extra length. I don't see how changing the bodice would help, because chances are that the sleeves are exactly the same for both views. If they aren't, and the other sleeve is wider, then just try it with the first bodice.

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Reply to ClaireEmily
Date: 11/5/09 10:59 AM

Claire,
In addition to Nancy's and Irene's excellent suggestions, you might consider another option. I too am very large busted (DDD-DDDD, depending on bra manufacturer) on an average sized frame, with average sized biceps.

However, I find that my breast tissue extends sideways and upwards into my armpit area, at the bottom of the armscye, and this factor can result in the sleeve area feeling too tight - when in fact, I just need some more space at the point where the bodice meets the bottom of the armscye. So whereas my high bust measurement (34") would indicate that I should start with a size 12, I always start with a size 14 (and sometimes a size 16, depending on the style).

Instead of doing the entirety of the FBA in the middle of the bodice, I do MOST of the FBA in the standard location, and then an additional sideseam FBA where I add 1/2" to the side of the bodice piece, 1/2" to the side of the back piece, and 1/2" to each edge of the sleeve at bottom armscye location (the sleeve joinder seam). I taper each of these 1/2" additions back to the original pattern piece edges at about 4 inches down from the starting location. These manipulatons give me the added room where the bottom of the sleeve joins the bodice. And if I find, after the fact, that the additional sideseam FBA has added too much space, I can just shave the seams back to a good perimeter.

So, bottom line, in addition to gauging the total inches of FBA needed, you want to examine the shape/location of your excess breast tissue. Unlike a surgical breast augmentation where all "girth" is added to the front/middle of the chest wall, a naturally large bust distributes excess breast tissue at places you would least expect. Something to think about, Lily

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Lily

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Reply to lilyofthevalley
Date: 11/5/09 12:40 PM

Thank you for detailing your FBA steps. I still struggle with getting the right fit on top and your method might work for me. I'll give it a try. Thanks again.

L

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Date: 11/5/09 4:46 PM

Thanks so much for your replies! Nancy,I will definitely go home and measure some shirts and see what the bicep measurement is. I really need to start flat measuring patterns EVERY time I think. I think a bigger full arm adjustment might be a good starting place.

Thank you for your ideas Lily. I totally know what you mean about a full bust being not where you expect. I'm not sure that I'll need that but I'll definitely be on the watch for it. I think I need to acknowledge that my bust is perhaps lower than where the pattern thinks it should be =(

Irene - I am ditching the bodice because it is not flattering at all! So I figured I could fix the sleeves and the bodice at the same time. I had this conversion with my sister about this pattern:
Sister: It's a bad choice of pattern for you.
Me: But it looks so cute on all the real women on PR.
Sister: Did any of them have a large bust?
Me: No. oh.

I am a bit fluffy all over, actually more on the bottom half than the top. The plus size patterns never really appeal to me much and since high bust =16 (even though hips =22-24) sometimes they don't go there. I can't seem to buy a patterns that fits everywhere.

But I now think this pattern was drafted for skinny teenagers and definitely not for me. I seem to be in the no man's land between normal and plus, both in patterns and RTW. I find it hard to be self aware about what my fitting issues are but I guess I just chalk large bicep adjustment up there too.....

Thanks so much everyone, much appreciated.

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Claire - Melbourne, Australia

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Reply to ClaireEmily
Date: 11/5/09 5:11 PM

ClaireEmily, you have been given excellent advice. I do want to add one more point, before you go off thinking you need a full bicep adjustment on everything.

This particular style of sleeve is VERY fitted at the bicep. It's the style and it is drafted this way on purpose. This sleeve would be tight on anyone, even someone with average arms. I have smaller upper arms and I find this particular style of sleeve is always tight, yet I have no issues with any other style of sleeve. It would probably only comfortably fit a 17yo "miss" with pencil thin arms. This is who this pattern is drafted for.

So while you may need a full bicep adjustment on this pattern, don't automatically assume the same is true of all patterns. Personally I think it's less to do with your bust/size and more to do with the pattern and style of sleeve. HTH

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

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Reply to ClaireEmily
Date: 11/5/09 5:12 PM

Quote:

But I now think this pattern was drafted for skinny teenagers and definitely not for me.

I just looked, and it says it's a Hillary Duff pattern... so, your conclusion seems correct.

Quote:

I seem to be in the no man's land between normal and plus, both in patterns and RTW.

This is why I stick almost exclusively to patterns that give you a wide range of sizes in one envelope -- Burda, New Look, and Butterick's Connie Crawford patterns (she puts Misses XS-XL in one envelope [which covers quite a few sizes!] and plus sizes in the other). Unless they're almost giving the patterns away ($1.99 or whatever), I refuse to buy two size ranges of the same pattern -- one for my neck and shoulder area and one for the rest of me.

-- Edited on 11/5/09 5:13 PM --

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Formerly Joan1954
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Reply to Sew4Fun
Date: 11/5/09 6:10 PM

Your point seems well taken. One other thing that I've found that seems like a tight arm is really postural. In my case I need to scoop out my front armscye and lower the underarm a bit or it feels like my sleeve is tight when it really isn't.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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Date: 11/6/09 3:57 AM

I always use a larger size in the sleeves (and also in the armscye, so they'll match) than I do for the shoulders. In my experience, Burda and Ottobre have reasonably-sized bicep measurements usually, but the Big 4 tend to be much more narrow.

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