Date: 11/5/09 3:06 PM

I am also considering a new machine, with similar, though not exaclty the same needs as gloucester. I read all of the posts and replies, but still seeking some guidance. Like her, I do not need a lot of stitches. I sew clothing for myself, and sometimes quilted, on my 20 year old Singer. I've probabaly completed 10 items this year and about 20 last, about 6-8 of them knits. I do not have the machine model number here at work, but it is non-computerized and was purchased for $200 or so in 1988. It is a fine basic machine and I am not unhappy, EXCEPT when I try to sew stretch knits, when no matter how much I try to adjust tension and use their "speciailized" stretch stitches or all of the other tips for stretch fabrics I have read, I still get poor results and lots of broken thread, skipped or uneven stitches or funny (puckered or just not great looking) seams. Before I read gloucester's thread, my question was going to be is there a "cheapie" serger or coverstitch machine that is recommended to solve my frustration (I don't really know the dfifference, actually, betw. serging and coverstitching but I've seen both terms used on knits)? I have about $300 to spend, so on a very tight budget. I do not mind if it is used vs new. After reading her thread and the responses, I wonder if a regular machine with adjustable tension would get better knit results and also maybe give me some new features, i,e blind stitch and/or auto buttonholes (although my current machine says it will do it, I have yet to get it right, and I do pretty good buttonholes on it, but they are strictly a manual 4 step process). I'm in No. California so am not far from major markets, but I do not have a relationship with a sewing machine dealer. Thoughts? Recommendations? Should I just be taking a pattern reiview course on sewing with knits rather than blaming my equipment?

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Date: 11/5/09 4:12 PM

Don't feel bad. Yes, it is possible to sew knits on a sewing machine and maybe a course would help you do it better BUT - getting a serger would help too! BTW - a serger cuts the fabric, sews the seams, and covers the raw edge at the same time, the coverstitch produced the double/triple needle straight stitch with zigzagy stitches underneath and no cutting involved. If you look a the hem of a RTW knit shirt, I can almost guarantee you'll see a coverstitch hem.

I vote for the serger since it is in your budget and you'll find lots of good uses for it once you start using it.

JEF

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Reply to another nancy
Date: 11/5/09 4:19 PM

I second the vote for a serger. There's a reason ALL rtw knit items are sewn on a serger: it just works better.

If you don't want to spend money on another machine, try using different feet on your sewing machine and see if you get better results. I especially recommend trying a roller foot because you will get less distortion on your seams. Use a narrow zig-zag rather than a stretch stitch. I haven't tried using a walking foot with knits, and some of the forward/reverse stitches may cause a problem with this foot, but it's worth a try. Also, if you can, lighten the pressure on the presser foot.

If you are getting skipped stitches, you are using the wrong needle, or a bent or otherwise defective needle. Use a ball point needle and polyester thread. Schmetz makes a "stretch" needle, but I understand that these can damage some machines.

-- Edited on 11/5/09 4:22 PM --

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Date: 11/5/09 4:21 PM

Speaking of equipment, do you use needles made for knits in your machine? Have you considered changing your brand of thread? I don't sew with knits myself; just thought those were things you could look at before purchasing a new machine. There are people who feel you don't need a serger to sew on knits. Aso the size of your needle and length of stitch may need to be changed. Do you use a narrow zigzag for knits?

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Date: 11/5/09 4:22 PM

Something to consider as well is the book: Sew U Home Stretch: The Built by Wendy Guide to Sewing Knit Fabrics
by Wendy Mullin. It's available used on Amazon for $7 plus shipping.

She walks you thru sewing with knits on a serger or with a sewing machine. My DD (age 31) is a novice sewer who does not sew that often. She thought it was really helpful for getting nice results with knits on her sm. There are lots of tips/hints for getting better results with a sm.

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

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Reply to another nancy
Date: 11/5/09 5:25 PM

Hi, Another Nancy.

I sewed a lot of knits back in the early seventies when they were all the rage, ballpoint needles not that readily available, if at all and affordable sergers had not hit the home market.

My machine was a Singer Golden Touch 'N Sew.

Ann Person's Stretch and Sew method was popular back then and was exactly that - stretch the fabic as you sew - never got the hang of that and still use the zig-zag even though I have a TOL serger and sewing machine.

Have you made samples to go by? I would try wash away stabilizer to temporarily stabilize the hems as you stitch, or you can use tissue paper on the side next to the feed dogs.

A double needle will give the look of a coverstitch.

Make the samples and stitch or pin notes to them as to the settings, needle and any other technique used - I have to do this because of occasional bouts of "CRS"!

Visit dealers an try out the sergers, including the threading.

You may decide to save your money until you can get the machine that is the easiest to use and has all the features you want.

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"Trying to save the world before bedtime"---PowerPuff Girls

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Reply to another nancy
Date: 11/5/09 7:00 PM

You may wish to prewash your fabric before sewing as some fabrics are treated with chemicals that causes the needle to deflect from the fabric.
I use Universal needles for sewing on almost all of my fabrics for clothing because they work so well on both woven and knits. The proper size of a Universal needle is also important.
You may need to adjust the foot pressure regulator on your machine if it has one to help your fabric feed properly. Usually using a narrow zig zag stitch works on almost all knit fabrics along with the proper needle and foot pressure.
I think you will love having a serger though. Sergers are so much fun to use and make sewing so much faster, easier and they make for a more professional looking finished product.

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Date: 11/6/09 0:14 AM

I also vote for getting a basic 3/4 thread serger with differential feed. That, plus a simple vintage straight stitch SM with a buttonhole attachment has enabled me to sew most any garment. I only pull out a zz capable machine for doing twin needle hems on t-shirts.

I bought my serger, a Janome 343D, 3-4 yrs ago for $130, and it was pre-loved, like all but one of my flock of sewing machines. I took a serger sewing course at a local sewing shop, and while there were shortcomings IMO with the curriculum and teacher, I found it equipped me with enough knowledge and confidence to muddle through most challenges that have come my way.

Jennifer Hill
--
'Winds of inspiration. . .'
Quilt Canada 2010
Telus Convention Centre, Calgary, AB
April 26 - May 1 2010

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Date: 11/6/09 1:26 AM

A serger or overlock is great ,but they create a lump at the seam. It depends on the look you want. I sew for a living doing custom clothing/costuming for opera/theater and film as well as alterations for private clients. I get to see alot of really exspendive desinger clothing and many designers don't overlock because of the bulkiness of the seam. I sew all of my knits on a Pfaff 2030 with the IDT walking foot. It allows you to sew without puckering using a staight stitch. I sew Jasco jerseys the same fabric that Ralph Lauren uses in his designs with it all the time. Use a half inch seam allowance and press open. Most stretch won't ravel, although I line everything. Usually with silk jersey or silk stretch satin. If the garment is unlined you will need a serger to make it really finished. I prefer the Pfaffs with the IDT, you should take a look. Maybe at an older one. I think the new ones have to many stitches for a garment sewer. You will have to test the seam to make sure they don't break. If you need the stretch around and not up and down you should be fine. If you need a little up and down you'll have to compensate and stretch the fabric a bit as you sew, but not to much. You have to get a feel for it. It's the same thing you have to do for bias. Some people like to sew stretch with a zig zag and let it hang out. I never liked the look of this. Good luck.

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Reply to another nancy
Date: 11/6/09 2:16 AM

I have an awesome Juki M0-654DE serger. I tried knit samples on it before, and it sewed all the samples well without puckering or uneven seams at the end.

But I have yet to use my serger on an actual knit project.

I think, buying a serger or not will all depend on the designs and the types of knits that you want to sew. And perhaps, your personal preference on whether you like your knits to look very similar to ready-to-wear (RTW).

I'm not the only one here who sews knits using a sewing machine. Christina does it all on her sewing machine. And she sews fabulous, modern knits... I know. I saw her sew a pair of yoga pants on her sewing machine in under an hour. She finished, then wore it as soon as she was done. Wow!

Christina has a computerized Pfaff with IDT which keeps her seams pucker-free and even. That and the stitches she uses, one of which I think, is a narrow zig-zag.

I use a computerized Viking with adjustable presser foot pressure. As for the stitches, I sometimes use a narrow zig-zag, straight and a lightning bolt stitch, depending on the style and the seam finish I want. I prefer using a sewing machine over a serger because I prefer very clean, flat and bulk-free seams. I like inconspicuous topstitching, too, on my knits. So I also don't like using a coverstitch, though I used to own a serger that was capable of both overlock and coverstitch.

To stabilize the hem, I use a narrow, double-sided fusible tape. A fusible tape that I highly recommend is LJ Designs Design Plus Ultra-Soft Double-sided Fusible Web. Another alternative which you can find at any JoAnn's fabric store is Clover's 5mm temporary fusible web. Then I either topstitch close to the hem's raw edge using a lightning bolt stitch or--gasp!--handsew using a catch stitch.

I don't write too many pattern reviews. But here's a review I wrote on a knit top on which I used straight and lightning bolt stitches.

Another important thing to consider: your pattern. A very well drafted pattern for knits will help your sewing immensely.

Before you invest on a serger, though I'm not suggesting that it's a necessary purchase, do take a class on sewing knits. At least, you'll know if it's you or the machine.





-- Edited on 11/6/09 2:42 AM --

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http://plaidnpoplin.blogspot.com/

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