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  Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > hemming a wedding gown with sweep style hem ( Moderated by JEF)

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hemming a wedding gown with sweep style hem
jeanau
jeanau  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/7/09 11:23 AM

I am going to hem my future daughter in law's wedding dress this weekend, and I just want some reassurance that I am approaching this the right way. The gown is not particularly full and has a small sweep style train. She is very short, so I have to hem the gown about 6 inches. It will not affect the shape of the skirt much at all. But, I would like to keep most of the sweep train as it is. My thoughts are to hem the full amount in most of the front, tapering as I go to the sides and onto the train. Eventually the true back of the train will be the original length. I will do this gradually so that it does not have a drop or angle anywhere in the hem. Am I thinking this our correctly? Thanks for helping out!

MarthaA24
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Reply to jeanau
Date: 11/7/09 2:54 PM

Your thinking sounds very much right on. The tapering probably will start around the side seam.

I don't know what kind of fabric it is (some fabrics you don't want any extra pin marks or bastings or anything that could create little holes and show, can test in area to be cut off), but if there is a way to pin it or baste it where you think the hem line should be and then have her put it back on and perhaps walk just a little it should be obvious if any changes were needed to the hem line.

I made my DD wedding dress, but this is what I did in doing the hem and in doing it this way I did make just a few changes from just the pinning it while she stood. This dress had a fair amount of fullness at the bottom, which didn't make it any easier in getting the hem just right.

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Martha

c schirmer
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Date: 11/7/09 3:10 PM

As someone who alters alot of wedding dresses I'd say your on the right track.
Have her wear the right foundation garments including petticoat & shoes.

If any other alterations are needed be sure to complete them before marking the hem. A bad fit, especially in the hips, can really affect the length.

Sometimes it is easier to shorten the train little (one hem width)than to try and blend the alteration in to the original.

I always have the bride walk back & forth a few times to make sure the hem is not catching on the carpet.

How are you going to bustle it for the reception?

jeanau
jeanau  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/7/09 4:04 PM

Thank you very much for your responses and assurances that I am on the right track. I have hesitated pinning the whole hem and then having her try it on because of pin holes. I did buy some very fine pins and perhaps they would be ok to use. The train is very small/short. It is almost more like a puddle of fabric in the back. They are having a simple outside reception in Guatemala at lunchtime with no dancing, so there is no worry about any bustle. Again, thanks!

jeanau
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Date: 11/7/09 4:05 PM

PS - the hem is only a very small (about 1/4 inch turn over of the fabric.

Franksdottir

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Reply to jeanau
Date: 11/14/09 0:51 AM

Oooooh, I am SO glad you asked this! My daughter is getting married in August and I am obsessing about her dress which I am making for her at her request. (No one else on Earth could get me to do this.)

She is also very short, and I have been thinking along these same lines. In her case, I think I will hem the underskirt a bit more, and allow the overskirt to train out a little, does that sound sensible?

------
Barb

rag doll
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Date: 11/14/09 6:22 AM

So glad this has come up. I'm about to hem my daughter-in-law's dress and she only needs a hem width off the bottom. I was going to cut the existing hem off and then re-hem. I had thought ,that as the dres only really needs to be shortened in the front, I would blend to the train. After reading advice on this thread I think it would be easier to just hem the whole lot to save the blending. I must admit that ithe blending issue was worrying me a little . I notice that the hem was sewn with a proffessional rolled/narrow edge foot. I have one but wonder if it would be easier for me to just do a "manual" narrow edge. What I mean is just the same look as the rolled foot gives but 3 times the work!! I'm not sure if I can trust myself to get around the whole gown with the narrow foot without a hiccup. What do you think?

jeanau
jeanau  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/14/09 1:02 PM

Here is an update on hemming my daughter in law's wedding dress. I finished it last night. I took off the total desired amount on the front of the dress (5 inches). Then, I blended and curved starting at the side seams all the way to the middle of the back ending up at 2 1/2 inches. I made sure that each side lined up when the train was folded in the middle. I measured and drew with a beige chalk pencil. I took off the total amount all the way around on the underskirt. I then measured, pinned, and hemmed on the machine 1/4 inch rolled/folded hems for the underskirt. For the overskirt I hemmed 1/4 inch on the machine, and then hand hemmed the finished/final hem. It turned out beautifully. I will press it today. To do all of this work, I used fine pins, fine thread, and fine extra sharp needles for the machine work. I hope that she will be very pleased! Good luck!

sewinglady4u
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Reply to rag doll
Date: 11/14/09 10:00 PM

I've never liked the rolled foot myself and will always use the "manual" way to do baby hems. They always turn out very professional looking without any puckering. I worked with gals who could run gowns thru the rolled foot like nobody's business, but I never quite got the hang of it.

------
Consew 7360R, Singer 14U overlock, Necchi 521, Pfaff 900, US Blind Stitch 718-2, Singer New Family 12K treadle

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