Date: 11/9/09 9:40 PM

I am still really struggling to fit this Jalie jean jacket, and feeling like I should go back to sewing for my kids. I mean, a 2 T is a 2 T is a 2 T, right?

Having scrapped three previous muslins and yards of pattern tissue, I came home this afternoon resolved to start from the beginning.

So here's what I've done:
1) traced off a size R, which matches my high bust measurement if I pull the tape measure really tight, tapering out to a size T at waist
2) narrow shoulder adjustment
3) FBA, moving dart to waistline and then splitting into two so that I can hide them in the seams of the front panel
4) added and then removed a sway back adjustment
5) broad back adjustment (splitting back from shoulder to hem and adding 3/4")

I have yet to trace off the sleeve this time, which means I still have to deal with a forward shoulder and extremely full arms.





So tell me true, is this worth sewing up as a 4th muslin? Is there anything else I should do first? Or is it time to throw in the towel and sew something within my reach. Say, some nice resusable grocery totes?

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proud to be a boutique sewer for Oliver + S
www.norasroom.com

June goals: Burda 3477; BWOF 5/2010/103; Simplicity 2770; Oliver + S Popover Sundress and Ruffled Halter; Simplicity 4361; & Primrose Lane Daniel romper.

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Reply to norasroom
Date: 11/9/09 10:33 PM

This is looking better. The shoulder seam looks too far forward in the side view. Is it even with your ears?. I don't see "extremely full arms". I see normal arms but will say Jalie drafts for very skinny arms. Your last muslin you posted had really improved & looked much more comfortable. Did loosening the bottom band help that one?

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Reply to norasroom
Date: 11/9/09 10:52 PM

This looks quite good, but you have sloping shoulders and it looks like a rounded shoulder. The wrinkles at the back armhole should disappear with these alterations. The rest is really good.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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Date: 11/10/09 6:57 AM

Thanks so much for the feedback!

Julia, the shoulder seam is forward on this jacket; there's a little pencil line marking the shoulder point. I'll draw it in with a Sharpie and make sure it's in line with my ear. Loosening the back band did help with the other one, but then I wanted to try moving the FBA dart to the front panel seams versus rotating it to the side seam, so I started over.

So, sloping shoulder and rounded shoulder and I WILL get the hang of this!

Meg
-- Edited on 11/10/09 7:02 AM --

------
proud to be a boutique sewer for Oliver + S
www.norasroom.com

June goals: Burda 3477; BWOF 5/2010/103; Simplicity 2770; Oliver + S Popover Sundress and Ruffled Halter; Simplicity 4361; & Primrose Lane Daniel romper.

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Reply to Nancy K
Date: 11/10/09 8:07 AM

Well, hot d@mn. The sloping/rounded shoulders alterations were right on the mark. And I wouldn't have come up with either on my own in a hundred years. If anything, I would've guessed I had square shoulders, so the photos + your advice are very illuminating.

So, to sum up, that's narrow shoulders, full bust, broad back, sloping shoulders, rounded shoulders, and I'm reserving judgment on the need for a swayback adjustment. No wonder nothing in my RTW closet fits well!

Not to get too ahead of myself here, but in theory are these adjustments I will need to make every time I fit a bodice?

------
proud to be a boutique sewer for Oliver + S
www.norasroom.com

June goals: Burda 3477; BWOF 5/2010/103; Simplicity 2770; Oliver + S Popover Sundress and Ruffled Halter; Simplicity 4361; & Primrose Lane Daniel romper.

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Date: 11/10/09 8:11 AM

Yes, you will for the most part have to make the same adjustments to everything unless it is a very loose, unfitted garment, but I don't make those! I see your cb riding up a bit. I'd add a bit to cb bottom and blending it in to side seam. Then you are ready for fabric! This is really a great alteration job and it only gets easier. I'd keep a check list of your alterations because, like me you have a few. This way you won't forget any. Before you start sewing all those seams together, do a pin fitting for any fine tuning. Try on a lot during the sewing process. It reduces the amount of ripping you do.
-- Edited on 11/10/09 8:15 AM --

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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Reply to Nancy K
Date: 11/10/09 8:15 AM

Will do.

One quick question about the sleeve (which I still haven't cut out):

If I understand correctly, nothing I've done so far has changed the size of the armscye, just the shape of it. So I'm planning to cut a size R (same as bodice) and then do a full arm adjustment to add an inch-plus of ease. Does that sound right?

------
proud to be a boutique sewer for Oliver + S
www.norasroom.com

June goals: Burda 3477; BWOF 5/2010/103; Simplicity 2770; Oliver + S Popover Sundress and Ruffled Halter; Simplicity 4361; & Primrose Lane Daniel romper.

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Subject: Tissue fitting woes: 4th muslin Date: 11/11/09 8:23 PM

Well, I'm back with photos of my 4th jean jacket muslin. The front looks and feels great, the sleeves feel good, and I think the back will be OK also. So this is definitely progress.

But I'm still having trouble with pulling across the top of the shoulder, especially when the sleeves are attached. Could one of my many shoulder alterations have made this worse instead of better? Out of curiosity, I released the right sleeve above the notches and let out the shoulder seam, reducing my sloping shoulder adjustment by half. This made it a bit more comfortable, but in the front view picture you can see that both sides are straining equally against the pin that holds the center fronts together.

I'm not sure where to begin to fix this problem. I think I'll cry if I have to go back and trace off yet another size. Any assistance you can offer is, as always, most welcome.





Edited to add: OK, this is definitely a sleeve/armscye issue. When I release both sleeves above the notches and clip into the armscye seam allowance, the front and back fit well, including the shoulder area. Does that help to narrow it down?
-- Edited on 11/11/09 9:18 PM --

------
proud to be a boutique sewer for Oliver + S
www.norasroom.com

June goals: Burda 3477; BWOF 5/2010/103; Simplicity 2770; Oliver + S Popover Sundress and Ruffled Halter; Simplicity 4361; & Primrose Lane Daniel romper.

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Date: 11/11/09 10:01 PM

That's looking really good. Sorry,I don't know enough to help with the sleeves. At this point,in my clothes, if it is comfortable & better than RTW, I'm happy.

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Date: 11/11/09 10:33 PM

Thanks, Julia. I am really getting somewhere.

After doing some reading, I added a half-inch to the top of the sleeve cap and reshaped the sleeve for a forward arm tilt, and success!

I am ready to cut into some denim and sew me up a jean jacket. I appreciate all the fitting help more than you can possibly know.

Cheers!

Meg

------
proud to be a boutique sewer for Oliver + S
www.norasroom.com

June goals: Burda 3477; BWOF 5/2010/103; Simplicity 2770; Oliver + S Popover Sundress and Ruffled Halter; Simplicity 4361; & Primrose Lane Daniel romper.

Next page>>