Date: 11/11/09 2:20 PM

I am working with a larger sized actress. The previous costumer didn't treat her very well, and is hoping I can dress her properly. She admits she is a hard fit. Here is why.
Under arm to waist : 7.5"
Nape to waist front: 24"
base of neck CF to waist 18"
Nape to waist back: 18

I tried making her a bodice last night and was nearly pulling my hair out. If I shortened the side to match her waist it was WAY too short for her tummy. but if I lengthed it to cover her tummy, it was too long on the side. HELP!

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

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Date: 11/11/09 2:33 PM

What are you making? The answer matters.

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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

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Date: 11/11/09 3:30 PM

Right now I'm looking at doing. This pattern in most likey a 22.

I was working on a basic fitting shell last night, and if I can't get THAT to fit right. I'm in trouble.

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

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Date: 11/11/09 3:37 PM

For dresses with waist seams, you should adjust so that the waist *looks* horizontal to the floor, regardless of where the actual waist is over the tummy area. For garments that hang from the waist, such as pants and skirts, she will probably have a "tilted" waist, which means you'll shorten the front, graduating to nothing at the sideseams.

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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

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Reply to shanntarra
Date: 11/11/09 3:43 PM

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-- Edited on 6/13/10 4:01 PM --

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From what others have said, the nasty message came from Fitting Woes, NOT Misc Hot Topics or the Civility thread.

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Date: 11/11/09 4:04 PM

The pattern is a jacket/bodice with a skirt. I'll see if I can't find a picture of a "tilted waist" adjustment.
The book is on my christmas list but havent' gotten it yet. Everytime I go to buy it , it is sold out at the store.

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

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Date: 11/11/09 4:35 PM

The March/April 2007 "Threads" has a great article on draping a plus-sized bodice (so, instead of using the pre-made fitting pattern). It's not online, unfortunately (though its companion skirt sloper article is), but here's the preview:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_130_050.asp
...with a link to buy the issue.

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~Gem in the prairie

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Date: 11/16/09 2:57 AM

Looking at your measurements, she's 2 and a half to 3 inches longer from the base of the neck at the front to the waist than you'd have on a standard block I think. Is any of this because of bust measurement? I'm asking because if the pattern needed adjusting to give extra bust room I'd tackle that first. After that, it might be that the pattern ends up with extra length at the front to go over the bulge, and one possible way of making that work could be to put a waist seam in the front. Then you could shape down from the side seam so you have a curved waist seam ( its usually flat across the front for three or four inches). Does that make any sense?

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Date: 11/16/09 5:56 PM

Can you tell me what the book title for FFRP? I am still trying to understand all the abreviations

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Reply to Mary Heckman
Date: 11/16/09 6:01 PM

Fit for Real People. It's a Palmer Pletsch book.

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Now blogging at http://sewwest.blogspot.com

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