Date: 11/13/09 10:51 AM

A week ago I was hired to make a Ghost of christmas past dress. Original plan was a white satin dress with chiffon flowly sleeves. The hem was to be 1 inch off the floor so it wouldn't get too dirty. We would then add gold accents by using a golden rope belt.
When I was given this job it was to go on a 14 year old 34B, 5'2". I made the white satin gown to fit her. Then she dropped out and they brought in her understudy. She is 5'4" 34C (I actually think she is more a 32D from her measurements, but she is convinced she is a 34C). This left me with a couple problems.
1) The dress was 6 inches too short. Originally Girl A was to be wearing ballet slippers and it was an inch from the floor. Now the actress is in 2 inch heels and they don't want her feet showing.
SOLUTION: We are adding an under skirt of a contrasting gold to fill in the gap, and also protect the white satin from dirt.
2) The original bodice was a 34B, but it now needs a 34C. As it is princess lined I can't easily replace the front. Currently the shoulders seem to be set too wide, and there is a gap at her neck of about two inches that tapers to middle of shoulder blades. It seems to me that it is point to really needing a FBA, but that isn't possible.
SOLUTION: I was thinking if I took in the shoulders an inch and tappered in the top of the bust line I might be able to coax the bodice into fitting properly.
3) Girl A was a waife, while the understudy is healtier in the waist.
SOLUTION: As this dress is princess lined I could most likely coax an additonal 1/4 inch out of each seam and make the dress at least an inch bigger.

Do any of you have any other suggestions what I can do to make this fit better?

PS: Here is a
Link to the pattern I'm making. View A.

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

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Date: 11/13/09 11:48 AM

Can't you get the stomach flu to go around for a week or so?

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I rip what I sew.

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Date: 11/13/09 12:21 PM

Could you replace just the two side panels on the front of the dress? You could put a lot more curve in the bust area AND add extra to the waistline.

I'm not picturing the gaping neckline part... I think I'd need a photo to understand that one.

Elaine

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

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Date: 11/13/09 1:44 PM

Were it me, I'd hope that there was some gathering at the top of those sleeves and in the skirt!

I'd rip out the side seams completely, and concentrate on fixing the shoulders and neckline.

To add ease in the bodice, I'd try to slip in an extra panel in the side seam to add "girth." Hence the hope that I wouldn't have to re-cut the sleeve or the skirt, I could just let out some of the gathering at the sleeve head and the skirt to adjust for the increased waist diameter and armscye circumference. Failing the sleeve gathering, I might try to insert a gusset to allow for the extra bodice girth.

ETA: oops, just saw the pattern (I made a Galadriel dress from that one!). No gathering. Go for the underarm gusset and let out all the skirt seams.
-- Edited on 11/13/09 1:45 PM --

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Date: 11/13/09 2:56 PM

I see one of the views has what looks like piping - any chance you could add say a 1/2" to 1" strip in the princess seams to imitate piping - but broader of course.

What a PITA - maybe they should allow you to start over?

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Date: 11/13/09 3:56 PM

cghipp: Sorry. Don't think I wasn't tempted though. They already have been fighting the flu at the theater. Thankfully most of us have been sterilization fiends. Not to mention the show opens thanksgiving days, so they need this dress ASAP!
goodworks1: I can't replace any panels as the fabric is a special italian satin that the designer wanted. We wouldn't be able to get more in time.
As for the neckline, it is something I had been seeing as a problem when an actress needs a FBA. It is something I have always had to take in when a FBA isn't done. Since I'm most likey going to have to unpick the whole dress I can do this adjustment without a problem.
Clin: That isn't piping it is a decorative trim that you can add on.

Could I add more curve to the bust by taking in a bit at the top of the bust? This way making a deeper cup for her to fit into? In the past, this has pulled the shoulders in a little.

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

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Reply to shanntarra
Date: 11/14/09 4:33 AM

Quote: shanntarra

Could I add more curve to the bust by taking in a bit at the top of the bust? This way making a deeper cup for her to fit into? In the past, this has pulled the shoulders in a little.

This will help the a little - but it I'd only expect this to 'increase' the cup by 1/2 a size.

Gussets under the armhole (and tapering into the sleeve) would be my quick and dirty way of doing an FBA. I've done this on a wedding dress for a stage play and it couldn't be seen from beyond 3 yards. They only take a scrap of fabric (maybe 4" by 10" long each). If this is for film work I suspect it wouldn't be good enough.

My thorough approach is in three parts - but its a heap of work:

1. Front Princess Seams: I would be to undo the princess seams down to the rib cage and use the S.A on the side fronts to do as much FBA as you can fit in (say 1/4).
Take in at towards the neckline to reduce shoulder width.


If you need more than 1/2 inch at the waist you will need undo down to the high hip to let this out .

2. Side Seams: Then undo the side seams down to the high hip. Again in the front side SA sneak in a tapered curve -about 3" long with the widest point level with her BP (giving you another 1/4 of FBA), then let out as needed at the waist.

3. Shoulders - if the shoulders are still too wide I'd put darts in the back neck line.

Good luck with this.
-- Edited on 11/14/09 4:34 AM --

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Reply to shanntarra
Date: 11/18/09 9:21 AM

An update on the dress. I spent the weekend and Monday night re making the dress, literally. I took it completely apart, and added the golden under skirt, and the golden mesh overlay.
I let out the seams out as far as I could get them which gave me about 2" extra. The director also had her wearing a long line "cosert" style bra underneath. She needed it for another character anyway. This actually made the dress a smidge too big, but it is something they can live with. Since this takes place during the holiday season having a little room for holiday weight is not a bad thing.
I took in the CB at the neckline 1 inch, and tapared it to nothing at the middle of her shoulder blades. This took out the fullness that was in her back neck line. I also took in the shoulder seams 2 inchs total. This made the armsye 2 inches smaller. I was seriously afraid that it wouldn't fit her. Turns out I was dead wrong. When she wore the gown onto the stage she looked amazing. They are even adjusting the lighting to show of the shimmer it has. It will make her look more "etherial". The girl's husband didn't recognize her. It fit her like a glove. She admited it is her favorite gown 2nd to her wedding gown. The director liked it so much he is putting her in the publicity shots for the show.

-- Edited on 11/18/09 9:22 AM --

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

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Date: 11/18/09 9:50 AM

What a wonderful job you did on such a difficult task. Enjoy your "lemonade". Good work!

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Kris

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Date: 11/18/09 10:01 AM

If anything I showed the actress & director what a real seamstress can do if given half a chance.
And you are right sor far the first few sips of my "lemonade" have been good.

Now on to my next project !

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"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

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