Date: 11/16/09 9:55 PM

My plan is to make a roller shade. Anyone had any luck with those shade kits available at Jo-anne fabric? or is there a better way to make them. Is it possible to bond fabric to an existing roller shade?

Thanks

Date: 11/16/09 10:04 PM

Did you know you can make one out of fabric, if your roller is made of wood? Yep. Just use interfacing to make the fabric stiffer, and use two thicknesses of fabric. Staple the fabric to the roller, and you're done!

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"Having to squeeze the last drop of utility out of the land has the same desperate finality as having to chop up the furniture to keep warm" -- Aldo Leopold
http://tree-sister.blogspot.com
"Don't cry; don't be sad; make happy"--Peggy Jones. Rest your weary body, dear friend.

Reply to Magggie
Date: 11/17/09 9:24 AM

I make fabric shades in the Swedish style. You can see a review in my stuff. I just posted the other day a review for a valance I made and there are roll up shades with it. VERY easy. What you need is your fabric, doll pins , boning rings ( 6 per shade ) cord for the pull-up action, an awning cleat and 2 large cup hooks to hang it. If you use a heavy fabric all you need to do is hem the sides and make casings on top and bottom for your doll pins. If you use a lighter fabric you can self line it or if your fabric is expensive use a less expensive lining fabric.

If I can be of any help or answer any questions feel free to PM me

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Listen with your ears-hear with your heart!

Reply to Miss Fairchild
Date: 11/17/09 1:41 PM

Miss Fairchild
if I could bother you for more detail. How do you finish the
sides? do you double the fabric by folding it or do you cut two pieces? do you use iron on stiffer ?
Thanks

Maggie

Reply to Magggie
Date: 11/17/09 9:02 PM

You make the whole shade like a pillowcase: one layer of fabric, the interfacing, and then another layer, with the sides and the bottom stitched together. The unfinished end, where you turn the shade inside out, will be tacked to the roller.

Here are some quick directions:
1. Measure the roller from the point where the fabric is going to sit on it. Then remove about 1/4"-1/2" from this measurement to allow for thickness of fabric (when fabric rolls, it takes up a little more space than the flimsy plastic you find on roller shades.
2. Then measure down your window, from the roller, to where you want the roller to end. Add about 2-3" to this number, because part of this fabric has to roll on the roller.
3. Also, add on 1/4" to the sides and top and bottom, for seam allowances.
4. Then cut your fabric and your interfacing to these measurements; you should have two pieces of fabric and interfacing. (light iron on pellon will work fine; even a nice iron-on muslin interfacing will work as well)
5. Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of one piece of fabric
6. Place the right side of the other piece of fabric on the right side of the piece that has the interfacing.
7. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew up both sides, and one end. Also, on the other end, sew in about 1/3 the measurement; do this on both sides.
8. Turn the piece right side out, using the section you left open.
9. Press again.
10. Slip stitch the opening and staple that to the roller.

If you find the roller doesn't roll up as well, because maybe the fabric might not be heavy enough, undo the opening, turn the piece wrong side out and add more interfacing. Then turn it to right side out, slip stitch and retack.

This makes a really nice blackout curtain as well, if you use thick interfacing. And don't forget how well it insulates!

------
"Having to squeeze the last drop of utility out of the land has the same desperate finality as having to chop up the furniture to keep warm" -- Aldo Leopold
http://tree-sister.blogspot.com
"Don't cry; don't be sad; make happy"--Peggy Jones. Rest your weary body, dear friend.

Date: 11/18/09 7:53 PM

Thank you I'll it a try

Maggie