Date: 11/17/09 2:31 PM

Hello Ladies,

I see almost everyone has to make the FBA.

I am B cup and these are my stats

High bust 30.25
Bust 34

There is a difference of almost 4 inches, so I guess I should be picking my pattern size based on the HB. But It just doesnt make sense that I need a FBA... can't I just reduce the seam allowances at the bust area? Will this work?

I'm crossing my fingers that I wont need too many adjustments or am I just in la la land !

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Beginner

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Date: 11/17/09 5:20 PM

All you can do is make up a test garment in cheap fabric and then decide.

Often the shoulders/neck are too big if one makes the pattern according to the full bust measurement and the cup size is greater than B. It just depends on your body and the pattern company.

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Reply to mamaore
Date: 11/17/09 5:59 PM

Firstly bra cup size and bust cup size for sewing aren't always the same, especially when so many ladies wear the wrong size bra. So don't go by your bra cup size.

Bust cup size in sewing is determined by the difference between your HB and full bust. In your case the difference is 3.75" so a large C-cup, small D-cup.

This said, measurements are only an indication. They aren't the be all and end all. You may not know how to measure correctly plus it's hard to measure yourself accurately, so your measurements may be incorrect. You may indeed be a B-cup.

As you are a beginner, at this point in your sewing I wouldn't get too concerned about FBA's. For the moment if you like, let out the side seam over the bust to give you more room if you need it. Honestly, it's not ideal. An FBA is definitely better but by all means let out the side seams until you feel more comfortable doing an FBA, assuming you need it. You won't really know for sure until you start sewing a few top patterns.

Probably the more important thing at the moment is to select your correct pattern size, then you can take it from there. Baby steps. You want to select the size that fits your shoulders and neck. After you sew a couple of patterns you will get a feel for what is the best size to start with. HTH

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

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Reply to mamaore
Date: 11/17/09 7:02 PM

Hello Mamore,

I just recently took a bra making class from a woman named Anne St. Clair. She has been making bras for over 25 yrs. It was a two day class and it was very interesting. Here is her web address if you would like to read about her and her technique.
http://ndlnookfab.blogspot.com/

Good Luck

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Date: 11/17/09 9:26 PM

When I look at myself and consider my measurements, it doesn't seem to me that I need an FBA either. But I do. Even when I was very young and not as *ahem* shapely as I am now, I always had gaps in the armscye and button popping issues. Learning the FBA is a continuing process for me, but it has made a few garments much, much nicer.

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

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Reply to mamaore
Date: 11/18/09 10:49 AM

Hi, mamaore,

I asked this very question here about six months ago, and got the very same answer: the only way to find out is to sew a fitted bodice in a woven fabric and see for yourself. When I finally did so, the drag lines from the bust coupled with the impossibility of making the center fronts meet up, made it super-obvious that an FBA was needed. I had to do it 5 or 6 times on my first pattern, with my copy of FFRP open beside me, but it makes a huge difference.

I wasn't sure about the need for an FBA for the opposite reason as you: I wear a 32D bra because of a very narrow ribcage, but there's less than an inch difference between my full and high bust measurements. To me, it doesn't make sense that I need one either, but the proof is in the fabric.

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proud to be a boutique sewer for Oliver + S
www.norasroom.com

June goals: Burda 3477; BWOF 5/2010/103; Simplicity 2770; Oliver + S Popover Sundress and Ruffled Halter; Simplicity 4361; & Primrose Lane Daniel romper.

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Reply to Sew4Fun
Date: 11/19/09 1:38 PM

Sew4Fun,

This is definitely interesting, I never knew bra cup sie is different from bust size...

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Beginner

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Date: 11/19/09 1:43 PM

Thanks Ladies,

I will start by trying out a fitted bodice, and will report back on my progress.

Any ideas on on a pattern that will be suitable for this purpose?

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Beginner

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Date: 11/19/09 3:13 PM

If you want a true fitting pattern, try McCall's 2718. (Vogue & Butterick also have this type of sloper patterns, but I don't remember the numbers.) The pattern has bodice fronts in all cup sizes, A - DD. You'll see how your figure differs from the standard fit-model figure on which the Big 4 patterns are based. From there, you can select fashion patterns with a good idea of what size you'll need and whether you'll need an FBA. Since patterns are generally fitted to a B cup, it seems to me that you will need the alteration.

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Reply to mamaore
Date: 11/19/09 5:06 PM

mamaore, Do you find that you go up a size in ready to wear to fit the bust and then find that the garment looks too big everywhere else? You need a FBA if your garment pulls across the bust- but seems to fit over the back. Example: are you one of those ladies that find that the button over your bust is always pulling open? Here is another clue, tops always seem to pull up at the center front.

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