Date: 11/19/09 6:38 PM

I am making a jacket out of corduroy, the pattern calls for fusible interfacing but I have read that you should use sew in with this fabric. Is that the case? Also, if all I have is fusible can I use it is sew in and just sew it in?
Are there any other tips, tricks or no-no's I should know about working witht his fabric? Thank you :)

Reply to kevsmom99
Date: 11/19/09 8:06 PM

You can use a firmly woven cotton or cotton blend fabric as interfacing. Make sure all of your pieces are facing in the same direction because corduroy has a nap. If you don't, part of the garment will look lighter and the other part darker. Also, run your hand down the fabric to determine which way you want the nap to go, I believe the smooth side should go downward.

Also, when you press, you should do so from the wrong side with a folded towel under the nap. You might want to apply steam with the iron raised above the surface and press downward with your fingers rather than resting the iron on the fabric. Another method is to place a strip of computer paper between the seam and body of the fabric to keep the edge from imprinting on the right side of the fabric. You should also grade your seams so they don't become too bulky. You may have to pound your intersecting seam if you have a lot of fabric -- again use the towel.

It's been awhile since I've made anything with corduroy (although I am getting ready to make DGD some dresses and jumpers from light weight, tiny wale corduroy in the next few weeks) so I may have forgotten some of the things to watch for. I would recommend you Google "sewing with corduroy" or check the Threads website for further information.

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Total fabric on hand: 1/1/12 1598.9823 yds.
Sewn in 2011: 224.771 yds
Fabric Stash Contest goal: 100 yards
Goal for 2012: 400 yards

Reply to kevsmom99
Date: 11/20/09 0:38 AM

You need to be careful to not press the nap too flat when you're making the garment. If you're going to machine wash it, I think there's really no problem. If you do press the nap flat, you can help it back by steaming and using a soft brush against the nap. You can place a terry cloth towel over your ironing board, or self fabric. Anything other than a needle board, though, and the nap will flatten out if you press long and hard enough.

Make sure to cut out all the pieces with the nap going the same way. I usually like the nap up, but it can go however you want. You can even alternate nap up/nap down on adjacent pieces for effect if you want.

The first corduroy pants I made, I had to recut a couple of pieces because of the obvious right and wrong sides. Be careful for anything you have to cut on a single layer or just one piece.

It kind of tends to ravel, and for the pile threads to pull off at a cut edge. You'll get more lint around your machine and work area, and the coat will continue to shed lint if the seam allowances aren't finished well or the jacket lined. I would either bind the seams or line it. WIth pants, a few stray clumps of corduroy just end up on your underwear, and noone will ever see.

It does get bulky. If there are pockets, I'd try to find a way to eliminate the facings. You also might want to trim the seam allowances in hem facings or where seams cross.
-- Edited on 11/20/09 0:42 AM --

Reply to kevsmom99
Date: 11/20/09 12:47 PM

You can use fusible interfacing on corduroy. You need to be careful not to press the nap out. Pressing with a piece of cord under the piece you're pressing will help.

Lots of cords tend to stretch; the interfacig wll help stop that. sew-in interfacing doesn't work as well for that as fusible.

Reply to kevsmom99
Date: 11/22/09 2:36 AM

Thank you all :)

Date: 11/22/09 2:08 PM

I have a lot of garments in curduroi and I used fusables , but I wash both interfacings and fabric before. for reducing bulk for pockets, inner yokes etc I use quilters cotton ( used to be an obssesive quilter)
I just finished a skirt and know the lint thing...give the garment a good shake outside a couple of times

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www.karinskammare.blogspot.com

Date: 11/22/09 2:16 PM

I was once told that the correct way to cut curduroi ( and velvet ) is that the smooth feel should go from bottom and up, this way you get a richer color. but I dito to what Tom says here

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www.karinskammare.blogspot.com