Date: 11/19/09 7:38 PM

After repairing a Kenmore 1040 back to its glory, I am pumped. I've not only caught the bug of acquiring vintage sewing machines, but I'm also addicted to repairing what I've acquired.

I don't know exactly what the differences are between repairing and refurbishing. I can't say that I refurbished the Kenmore 1040. To me, refurbishing a SM involves so much more. Perhaps it involves the removal, inspection and total cleaning of certain parts, like the gears, motor and electrical wiring. I didn't do any of that to my Kenmore 1040.

It was making a lot of noise. The upper and lower tensions were ugly. And it was just filthy. How can the previous owner not have given this fabulous machine the attention it needed?

So I got rid of the noise, fixed the tensions and cleaned it all up real shiny and pretty.

I sewed one project with it so far. It's lovely, just lovely.

I've only had the 1040 for two weeks now. I'll give myself a little more time to get to know the machine before I write a thorough review. When I do that, I'll edit my review on the Kenmore 1060 to reflect my experiences with the 1040.

Today, my Singer 301 is getting a lot of attention.

In my adventures, I discovered a few tools that have been very helpful. One of these tools is a dentist's tool, one of those metal probes. (I hope okie2thdoc is reading this... she can definitely enlighten us.)

Other tools that also prove useful are:

long BBQ bamboo skewers,
bamboo toothpicks,
long handled, sharp pointed tweezer,
small head toothbrush,
cheap paintbrush with plastic bristles cut to a short length,
Craftsman professional screwdrivers,
clean popsicle sticks, and
waxed tissue wrapping paper cut into long strips.

I'm not sure if all tissue wrapping paper are the same. I prefer the kind that have a smooth, waxed surface. It seems stronger, leaves no lint, and are very crushable. I wad it up nice and small, and push it against metal with a popsicle stick. Or I wrap a length around shafts and floss with it. It's perfect to wedge and clean between tensions discs, too. I did dip the tissue a bit in some rubbing alcohol.

I try not to use Q-tips as they leave a lot of lint behind, especially when they touch rough surfaces. Removing Q-tip lint is more annoying than removing old, icky grease.

I used to wash with a mild mix of vinegar and water. No more. I found that my Singer 301 hates this mix. Cleaning the surface with sewing machine oil, facial cotton pads, and elbow grease give excellent results.

I decided not to mess with kerosene to clean the gears. After reading plenty of comments, I decided that I will just remove as much as I can without the use of any cleaners. So far, that dental tool I mentioned earlier and that waxed paper gave excellent, clean results.

I've been looking for the best stuff to use on filling a crack on the plastic base of my 1060.



My concern is the stuff's long term effects. Will it hold? Will it dry clean or sticky? Will it make the crack even worse under stress?

This crack is found on both my 1060s on the very same spot on the plastic bases. So, I think, it was not a good idea to make the base out of plastic, especially when it gets a lot of stress.

Any recommendations?

The next problem to tackle is the burrs found on needle plate holes. I have three needle plates with holes that need smoothening. I'm looking into affordable vice grips and fine crocus cloth.

Any recommendations on those, too?



-- Edited on 11/19/09 7:59 PM --

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Her needlework both plain and ornamental was excellent, and she might have put a sewing machine to shame. ~James Edward Austen-Leigh, about Jane Austen

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Date: 11/19/09 8:55 PM

I like this web site for information on sewing machine repair and troubleshooting: SewVacDoctor

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Date: 11/19/09 9:13 PM

For cleaning up old grease--and for cleaning the exterior of the machine as well (I'm talking machines with enamel paint finishes, not black beauties with decals, etc.) I like to use Simple Green cleaner--undiluted to clean old grease from gears and innards--and diluted to clean the exterior of the machine.

NAAYY.

I learned about Simple Green virtues in cleaning hard core grease by using it in a letterpress printing class to clean up oil-based inks. It works as well as flammable solvents but is safer and is supposedly non-toxic.

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I am going for a level of perfection that is only mine... Most of the pleasure is in getting that last little piece perfect...Inspiration is for amateurs. The rest of us just keep showing up and doing the work.

Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer

Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage

St. Augustine

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Reply to tlmck3
Date: 11/20/09 3:27 AM

Have you ever tried to twist a presser bar back into position?

It looks as if the presser bar on my 301 is twisted slightly off center, more towards the right. The presser foot doesn't look like it's sitting correctly on top of the feed dogs. So the needle hits it ever so slightly.

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Her needlework both plain and ornamental was excellent, and she might have put a sewing machine to shame. ~James Edward Austen-Leigh, about Jane Austen

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Date: 11/20/09 3:41 AM

I found the answer at the TFSR website!

To put it in their terms, it's called a "swivel adjustment of the presser bar."

Great pictures, too.

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Her needlework both plain and ornamental was excellent, and she might have put a sewing machine to shame. ~James Edward Austen-Leigh, about Jane Austen

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Date: 11/20/09 5:31 AM

I found that working on vintage machines can be as exciting and gratifying as sewing a project. It is totally rewarding to have one running smoothly after cleaning/repairing. Thank you for giving such a good report, detailing the tools you used, and passing along the pdf about the presser bar adjustment.

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Reply to poplin
Date: 11/20/09 6:08 AM

Quote:

After repairing a Kenmore 1040 back to its glory, I am pumped

Don't you just love that feeling!!
Well done you and great your Kenmore has found a home it deserves.
Pretty sure there are a lot of neglected machines out there where their owners shove them in a cupboard if they're not working and all they need is a little TLC.

I got a New home Mechanical machine from a local car boot sale a while back and it too sews brilliantly. In fact I just set it up again yesterday and have just hemmed some jeans on it. It eats layers of denim for breakfast.
I love that machine.

I have used in the past a spray can of silicone bike loobe. A good clean and several oils up with sewing machine oil.
Thanks for the tool list. I must put together a little collection of bits in a box ready if I find another machine that needs my help.

Wishing you many happy hours sewing on your machine.

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My machines; Bernina 135S, Brother FS-40, Pfaff Freestyle 1522, Bernina Serger 800DL.

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Reply to poplin
Date: 11/20/09 10:29 AM

Quote: poplin

I've been looking for the best stuff to use on filling a crack on the plastic base of my 1060.

I'd suggest a good-quality epoxy (not the stuff from Big Lots) with a 5-minute or longer set time. Based on my experience with other plastics, it'll hold up pretty well.

Start by removing the base and cleaning the crack thoroughly with alcohol.

Now, figure out how you're going to clamp this for a day. A long Jorgensen-type woodworking clamp, with pads on the jaws, would likely work well. Nonetheless, make sure whatever you choose will work and continue to hold without falling off for the duration of the repair. Also figure out where you're going to put this while the epoxy cures (out of the way of rambunctious kids, dogs, etc.). Get a bottle of rubbing alcohol and a couple of paper towels handy (as a solvent for uncured epoxy). Do all this BEFORE you mix the epoxy.

Identify a tool or two to apply the epoxy. Toothpicks work well for most cracks (have several on hand), as do the tines from a plastic fork. A pin can be used to push it into the tiny part of the crack.

Then, mix the epoxy as carefully as you can (equal parts resin and hardener) and stir it for a good minute to ensure it's mixed for maximum strength. Without globbing the stuff on, coat both surfaces to be glued. Try to work it down into the crevices using a pin or the tip of the pick, etc. Gently but firmly squeeze the crack closed. (If you did it right, there won't be much glue squeezing out.) Apply the clamping force (clamp, rubber bands, etc.) so that the crack is fully closed but WITHOUT warping anything. Use a paper towel dampened with alcohol to clean off any excess epoxy.

Now, let the stuff cure at room temperature (or near a radiator) for at least a day. Gently remove the clamp and see what the results were.

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Reply to FrBasil
Date: 11/20/09 1:06 PM

Thank you!

It's going to be difficult. I'm not quite sure how I can completely remove the cream-colored plastic base and dark-colored metal frame on my 1060. The electrical wiring attached to the plug in is attached to the metal frame.



This image makes me chuckle every time I look at it.

I'm not sure how I'm going to detach the base, or if I should. Propping the machine to get the base leveled enough to apply the epoxy is going to be tricky.

I'm going to use heavy duty rubber bands. Or butt the ends of some wide elastic and sew it together... I mean, I do sew, right? ;)

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Her needlework both plain and ornamental was excellent, and she might have put a sewing machine to shame. ~James Edward Austen-Leigh, about Jane Austen

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Reply to aliann1
Date: 11/20/09 1:10 PM

Great link! Thanks.

Looks like lots of information that will be fun to read through, especially during rainy days and nights.

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Her needlework both plain and ornamental was excellent, and she might have put a sewing machine to shame. ~James Edward Austen-Leigh, about Jane Austen

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