Date: 11/20/09 9:43 AM

Hello Ladies,

I know this may have been addressed before but cant seem to find the answer after searching.

My question is 2 fold:

1. I am trying to select the right size for me in Burda Tops. This is my first attempt at a top. I have learnt from here that I should be picking my size based on my high bust measurements.

I have looked at the 2 burda patterns I have and there is no high bust measurement on the size chart..only the bust. Also there is no shoulder measurement so I cant use that as well.

In this situation how do I select the correct size to start with since its crucial that the shoulder and neck fit.

2. I am petite and I will be shortening the lengths on most top patterns. I have read here that I need to ensure the bust and waist points on the pattern tissue hits my bust and waist points when I tissue fit. But in my Burda patterns, the bust point is not marked only the waist point is marked.
How do I know the bust point?

I hope my questions make sense?

Thanks for your wonderful help as always.

------
Beginner

Next page>>

Reply to mamaore
Date: 11/20/09 10:53 AM

Quote: mamaore

I have learnt from here that I should be picking my size based on my high bust measurements.

Only if your bra cup size is larger than a B (C for Burda).

there is no high bust measurement on the size chart..only the bust.

Pick the pattern full bust size that corresponds to your high bust (if you are full-busted).

Quote: mamaore

But in my Burda patterns, the bust point is not marked only the waist point is marked.

The bust point will be about 1" from where a bust dart ends, if you were to draw a line through the center of the dart and continue it outward past the dart tip. Same for a waist dart. If there's no sewn dart, it's generally 8-9" down from center of the shoulder.

What's the pattern you're going to make?

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Next page>>

Date: 11/20/09 11:18 AM

Thanks Debbie.

My patterns are dresses actually, Burda 7601 and 7602.

7602 has a bust dart but 7601 does not ?

-- Edited on 11/20/09 11:21 AM --

------
Beginner

Next page>>

Date: 11/21/09 7:09 AM

Hi! I'm both Petite (5') AND a Burda fanatic. Aren't you lucky?

First of all, did you take all the measurements on the standard Burda size chart?

I strongly recommend taking them all. Here's the list:

Quote:

Bust Waist Hip Bust depth Front Waist length Back length Back width Shoulder width Sleeve length Upper arm width Neck

I've always selected my pattern size by Full Bust, Waist or Hip measurement. I'm a 34B/C cup so no alterations and no problem so far.

Now, there is a 2 cm difference in the torso btw Burda Standard (5'6") and Burda Petite (5'3"). They have you take it out in two places, above and bellow the bust.

Here's how to shorten or lengthen patterns

I usually just do the standard alteration shown above, though my back length is 3/8" (1cm) shorter than the Burda size I wear.

HTH but don't be afraid to ask more questions!

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com

Next page>>

Reply to lakaribane
Date: 11/28/09 3:10 PM

I am 5,2". I have only taken the measurements that I think I need.

It appears that I am only petite waist down and in my arms.
Because I didn't need to make any length alteterations for the dress 7602 that I am presently working on.

------
Beginner

Next page>>

Reply to mamaore
Date: 11/30/09 3:07 PM

Well, don't know if you made up the dress or not but you can use the Burda measurements chart for Standard and mark the reference points.

Bust is 27 cm from the shoulder/neck point etc. Maybe you could trace them all in contrast ink on a muslin and put it on to compare?

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com

Next page>>

Reply to lakaribane
Date: 11/30/09 4:16 PM

I had sown a muslim and I'm started working on my fabric over the weekend. I need to put in the facing and the sides.

I will post my results.

------
Beginner

Next page>>

Date: 12/1/09 1:50 AM

For what it's worth, the Palmer/Pletsch people have used only the high bust measurement (on everyone) for over 30 years now. They reason that it is far easier to get a decent neck & shoulder fit that way and I certainly agree. I suspect that since high bust is a better measure of bone structure than full bust, which generally includes a lot more flesh, you achieve a far better neck and shoulder fit. So, therefore, I would agree that as the cup size increases, the error of measurement increases exponentially when using full bust measurements.

For a good fit, as opposed to inadequate or great, most people have to alter the pattern at least a little. It is best that the basic pattern already fits the neck and shoulders. Personally, I use only high bust. If I used full bust, I'd have to get a pattern 4 sizes bigger than I need in the neck and shoulders.

------
"The louder he talked of his honor, the faster we counted the spoons" Ralph Waldo Emerson

Next page>>

Reply to mamaore
Date: 12/1/09 11:46 AM

Years ago, a lovely lady named Roberta Carr used to teach sewing students how to use Burda (she also did videos and books). She was in fact a Burda maven, and her motto was 'believe Burda.'

She taught me how to fit myself using Burda, and said the key is to use the Burda fitting charts. There are three pages in this link, but there is also a fitting chart in every Burda pattern. It's a line drawing of a human and there is a series of size numbers next to it. According to Bobbie, you take every measurement shown on the chart--including the all-important neck measurement at the base of the neck--and circle the closest size number at each point.

Bobbie told me that that neck base measurement is not only your neck size, but the size of your shoulder and the sleeve cap. Even though I am a C to D cup, she had me trace along the size line for my full bust ('believe Burda' again), not the high bust, and this measurement also determined the size line of the sleeve underarm. I did the same thing at the waist and hip, which were also not the same size. The result of all this was that I was gradually tapering my tracing line between sizes.

This took care of my circumferences. I am not as tall as the Burda standard, so next I had to shorten my pattern pieces. The result was a garment that fit--and without a FBA in spite of my bustiness.

I'd recommend you give Bobbie Carr's method a shot with another muslin. You may not need to re-invent the wheel.

Next page>>

Reply to mamaore
Date: 12/1/09 9:19 PM

Dear Mamaore,
You said the following:

Quote:

I am petite and I will be shortening the lengths on most top patterns. I have read here that I need to ensure the bust and waist points on the pattern tissue hits my bust and waist points when I tissue fit. But in my Burda patterns, the bust point is not marked only the waist point is marked. How do I know the bust point?

It may be easier to use a pattern with the same back length as your own. -----The back length is the distance from the base of your neck to the back of your waist. ----- As far as vertical distances this would be as close as possible to your own. It is usually easier to add width to a pattern.

Our bodies vary as far as the actual distance from the waist line to the bust line. You will have to measure yourself (your body) and set it on the pattern.
If using a pattern with the same back length as your own body:
See if the neck area requires expansion. Put a piece of string around the neck let the ends hang and measure the distance. Divide in half. If your body measurement is greater then add to the pattern otherwise not leave it alone.

You'll be adding width between the shoulders and the outside of the vertical neck band region. Measure the distance between the apex of your breasts. Divide in half.

Measure the distance from the waist line to the apex.
Measure the distance from the apex to your shoulder(center on top) Add these measurement together. This is the length of front part of your bodice.

On the pattern find the waist line. Note the center line.
At the waist line measure the 1/2 apex distance away from center and mark it.
Then go vertically up using your natural bust line measurement. From the bust line to the shoulder measure that distance. If the pattern is greater from the bust line to the shoulder then shorten if it is less then increase it.

Think of your body and the pattern as being on a grid.

------o-------|neck |------o------ shoulder

------+------|---|---|------+----- bust line

--------------|---|---|-------------- waist line

I reference from the waist line because I feel that it is the most constant position in the garment. I hope the afore will be helpful to you.


-- Edited on 12/1/09 10:10 PM --

Next page>>