Date: 11/20/09 4:44 PM

I'm working with a stretch knit for my first time. I'm making a dress, Vogue 8511, using a stretch cotton jersey knit, 90/10 cotton and lycra, medium weight. My problem is that the fabric is puckering slightly after the needle and thread pass through it. I've tried tension adjustments and a couple different sizes and types of needles. Is there something else to try?
(The smallest needle size I have in the house is an 11 ball point--is it worth driving up town to get another size?)
Also, what is the best finish to use on knit fabrics? Overcasting?
-- Edited on 11/20/09 4:50 PM --

Reply to gladeofmelons
Date: 11/20/09 7:34 PM

Do you have a stretch stitch on your machine? It looks like a broken small zigzag. If you don't, and have a zigzag, make the zigzag narrow and the stitch length long. If you don't have a zigzag, use a larger straight stitch, and make the tension a little loose. Also, be aware and check if you are pulling on your fabric (this is so common to beginners). Your hands are on there only to guide the fabric; the machine does the pulling through.

If you are going to overcast your seams, you will need an overedge/overcast foot. This foot has a blade down the right toe, and you can zigzag right along the edge (the blade keeps the edge on place). A lot of people will suggest serging them, but I use an overdge/overcast foot on mine because I don't own a serger, and I don't like the idea of stitching breaking out, as what may happen with a serger.

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Date: 11/20/09 8:27 PM

What stitch length are you using? It shouldn't be any more than 2.5. Also, are you pressing your seam after sewing? This will sometimes remove any slight puckering that may be going on.

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Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
My sewing blog: http://nosilasews.blogspot.com/

Reply to gladeofmelons
Date: 11/20/09 8:42 PM

If you do want to overcast the seams I think sewing them together may be easier than pressing and seperating as you would a cotton. Other PR members have suggested using a Schmetz stretch stitch needle ( I have yet to get some but will)

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It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something. ~ Franklin D Roosevelt 1843
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