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  Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Cutting mistake

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Cutting mistake
I cut two backs and no front
Elaine Dougan
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Elaine Dougan  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/20/09 5:21 PM

After a long time spent making what I hope is a pants pattern that is going to fit I have messed up on the cutting. I cut two backs. I do not have enough fabric to cut out new fronts. When I place the front pattern on the extra cut out backs they do not fit. They are about an inch short in the legs and there is not enough fabric for the fly front. Does anyone have suggestions for fixing it? The only thing I can think of is to put the zipper in the back or the side and add a false hem. Is there any way of saving it and still have a fly front? I think I read somewhere that someone used a sewn on fly front. I do not know how this works.
fly front

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Elaine

katlew03
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katlew03  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/20/09 5:29 PM

It doesn't look like you have enough fabric for a seam allowance or you could just cut out a separate fly front and add a seam allowance to it and the pants front -- if the grain lines up when you lay the new pattern piece down on top of your fabric. If the grain line does not line up, your pants would not hang correctly. If you can add a fly, you would then sew both pieces together along the center front and treat them as one -- except you would have to press the seam really well so it wouldn't look bulky.

Have you checked the length to see if they will be too short. If they are about right, you could face the hems or add cuffs so that the bottom edge would be hidden in the cuff -- but only if they would look OK with the style of the pants.

Back to the fly. You may have to make a fake fly by just stitching the front to look like a fly and adding a zipper in the back or side.

------
Total fabric on hand: 1/1/12 1598.9823 yds.
Sewn in 2011: 224.771 yds
Fabric Stash Contest goal: 100 yards
Goal for 2012: 400 yards

Annette Wright
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Annette Wright
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Date: 11/21/09 0:14 AM

Capris

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Annette
http://needlesnails.blogspot.com/

Sewinglady1947
Sewinglady1947

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Reply to Elaine Dougan
Date: 11/21/09 6:59 AM

Just the other day I was cutting a knit top without any extra material and was putting it together. I noticed something wasn't right and I had two fronts. This is after years of cutting and sewing. I just put it back for a child's top.

Ann B.
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Date: 11/21/09 8:57 AM

Maybe you could just skip the fly front and do an invisible zip on the side.

Tom P
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Reply to Elaine Dougan
Date: 11/21/09 11:14 AM

It's easy to change to separate fly pieces. And the seam allowances only need to be 3/8.

For the top side of the fly, you basically just trim the front pattern piece at 3/8 past the fold line. For the fly piece, cut the foldover part plus a 3/8in. seam allowance. When you make up the pants, just stitch the new piece on, understitch the fly, then follow the instructions from the pattern.

For the other side, trim the front pattern the same as the other side. When you make the pants up, press under the 3/8" SA, then edgestitch on the zipper tape, and fly facing.

My description may not be that clear, but it's really not hard. If you like, I can post some pattern instructions that show it (potentially) better.

If you have trouble squeezing out the SA for the cut on fly, you can borrow some from the SA on the hip seam.

Elaine Dougan
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Reply to Tom P
Date: 11/21/09 4:31 PM

Quote:
For the top side of the fly, you basically just trim the front pattern piece at 3/8 past the fold line. For the fly piece, cut the foldover part plus a 3/8in. seam allowance. When you make up the pants, just stitch the new piece on, understitch the fly, then follow the instructions from the pattern. For the other side, trim the front pattern the same as the other side. When you make the pants up, press under the 3/8" SA, then edgestitch on the zipper tape, and fly facing.

Thank you, Tom. I kind of understand what you are saying but not completely. Further instructions would be appreciated.

------
Elaine

Tom P
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Reply to Elaine Dougan
Date: 11/21/09 10:40 PM

I'll see if I can get some pattern instructions posted tomorrow.

Tom P
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Reply to Elaine Dougan
Date: 12/4/09 6:31 PM

I'm so sorry about the delay. I'm sure you've already got this resolved by now, but on the off chance that you got sidetracked by Thanksgiving like me ...


Try this link for my preferred fly instructions

Elaine Dougan
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Reply to Tom P
Date: 12/4/09 8:25 PM

Thank you again. I just put the pants aside in the "needs to be fixed" pile. When I am thinking clearly, I will give your fly instructions some attention. I am one of those people who has to have the garment in front of me while I follow the instructions step by step. Just reading and trying to visualize seems to be too much for my brain. I think I will make a sample fly before I try on the real garment.

------
Elaine

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