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Message Board > Fabrics and more... > Cutting pattern on crossgrain ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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Cutting pattern on crossgrain
ekFitz
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ekFitz
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Date: 12/4/09 10:40 PM

I bought some beautiful striped "kashmere" cotton flannel today. I didn't realize until just now that the stripes are along the crossgrain. I'm making S2543 for my mother and I need the stripes to go vertically. This would mean cutting the pattern pieces on the crossgrain, however, which I've never done before. Should I expect to have any issues or do you all think this should work? It's a pretty tightly woven flannel, so I'm thinking it should be fine, but I'd like some input before I actually cut it.

Thanks!
Erin

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My sewing blog - www.gravamenofthestitch.com

kkkkaty
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In reply to ekFitz


Date: 12/4/09 10:44 PM

I did the same thing a while back, to my disgust, so I look forward to seeing what kind of answers you get!

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Nancy K
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Date: 12/4/09 10:57 PM

Go ahead and cut it on the cross grain, it's done all the time. You'll even need less yardage that way too. I have had fabrics that have stretch on the length wise grain and I've cut them on the cross grain so that the stretch goes around the body. Since this is cotton flannel make sure that you prewash it more than once. 3 Times is my choice.

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Janie Viers
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Date: 12/4/09 11:18 PM

I only worry about not using the selveged edges folded to meet rather than the cut edges meeting when I am making an item with fullness. I know that cutting from selvege to selvege strips creates fuller ruffles than fabric cut along the selvege does.

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ekFitz
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Date: 12/4/09 11:27 PM

Thanks for the info. I'm glad to know that the cross grain shouldn't be an issue!

I was planning to wash the flannel twice, but I'll throw it in for a third time. I'm also making this for my father out of a very heavy flannel and am alternating the two fabrics between the washer and the dryer. Hopefully I can get both fabrics washed and dried completely tonight. I really want to get both cut out tomorrow and at least one completed by Sunday night.

Erin

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MsMaryO

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Date: 12/5/09 9:11 AM

Hi Erin,

I love those cotton "Kashmere's". There were a whole bunch of them at Mill End store in Portland. Their washed sample was still as nice as the unwashed yardage. I was surprised because I thought it would pill like crazy if it was washed.

I recently cut a pair of pants on the crossgrain and I wasn't happy with the results. They were a wool gabardine but had more stretch in the lengthwise grain than the cross grain. Maybe it's just me, but I feel like I'm wearing sideways pants when I wear them...

Let me know how it comes out for you.

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Sharon1952
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Date: 12/5/09 10:29 AM

Cutting on the crossgrain is not an issue. I do it all the time and have had no ill effects. Except, for one fabric that had an invisible "nap." I cut pieces in both directions and it was sort of noticeable when the light hit the finished jacket. I chalked it up to artisitic talent! I still wear it.

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SheBear0320
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Date: 12/5/09 11:34 AM

I've cut on the cross-grain quite a bit and as long as you are aware of the fabrics properties (i.e. what kind of stretch there is both lengthwise and crosswise, nap, pattern direction, etc), you should be fine.

I'm always on the look-out for fabrics for men's skating pants. I found this fabulous pin-stripe fabric with the pin-stripe on the crossgrain. There was significant stretch on the crossgrain but very little on the lengthwise grain. Since men's skating pants require more stretch on the length of the pants with at least a little stretch around the body, this fabric worked perfect for pin-stripe skating pants but on the crossgrain. They hang beautifully and move just the way the guys want them to.

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Sheila
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ekFitz
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In reply to MsMaryO


Date: 12/5/09 2:38 PM

Funny you mention Mill End - that's exactly where I bought this - at the Milwaukie store! I can't shop at any other store these days (except Josephine's when I need thread or a notion).

Hopefully the coat will turn out okay on the crossgrain. There really isn't any stretch in the fabric, so I think it will be okay. I'm also lining the coat with a flannel backed coat lining, so maybe that will help it keep its shape.

Erin

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Natalie D.
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Date: 12/5/09 2:45 PM


I've always taken issue with sewing books (most of them) that say to always cut on the lengthwise grain or that fail to explain the salient facts about grain (99.9%). You know... like women (most people who sew) are too stupid to comprehend the details so just give them a simple rule. Bah! We can make better choices if we understand the process.

When fabric is woven, the lengthwise yarns (the warp) are stretched pretty taut on the loom (mostly) unlike the crosswise yarns (the weft) which are usually far more relaxed during the weaving process. Then the fabric, still stretched on the warp, is wrapped in bolts or rolls. Since the weft was not stretched (usually), it remains relaxed and a bit stretchy. But, the lengthwise grain--- the warp--- may still be stretched and may "relax" only after being removed from the bolt. So, for that and other reasons including the density of warp yarns versus the density of weft yarns, the warp is usually far more prone to shrinkage than the weft.

Generally, we lay out pattern pieces on the warp because (1) of shrinkage; and, (2) it is preferable to have more stretch around one's girth than on the vertical plane. All fabrics are different, however, and the type of weave plays a role as well. For instance, I would be unlikely to lay out a fitted jacket on plain weave woolen weft because the fitting may turn out to be a problem.. ie- no give. OTOH, if it is a loosely fit pattern, then all might be fine. You have to judge each fabric and pattern individually. I hope this helps a little.

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"The louder he talked of his honor, the faster we counted the spoons" Ralph Waldo Emerson

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