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Interfacing lapels on men's peacoat
Does a peacoat even have lapels?
norasroom
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norasroom
Member since 4/21/09
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Date: 12/20/09 2:22 PM

Holiday sewing complete, I am embarking on a men's peacoat from a Japanese pattern book, with fantasies of finishing it by New Year's Eve for the PR contest. Hah!

My issue is this: after slogging through the Great Coat Sew Along blog, I had intended to interface the lapels with a wedge of fusible interfacing as described by Marcy Tilton in this Threads article. But after looking at the pattern and technical drawings more closely, I'm not convinced that a peacoat even has lapels. There's no roll line marked on the pattern, and it seems to me that DH might want to button all eight buttons against a cold breeze. But what do I know?

So what do you think? Let the "lapels" roll where they will? Or designate a roll line and build in a curved shape by pad-stitching or interfacing? (I will, in any case, interface the whole front pieces with a weft-insertion fusible; I'm just wondering what additional support, if any, the lapel area requires in a coat such as this one.)

Technical Drawing:

Photo of same pattern from book:


-- Edited on 12/20/09 2:46 PM --

Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to norasroom <<


Date: 12/20/09 6:18 PM

The true pea coat can be worn with or without lapels (see photos here of real people as well as models wearing the garment). DH has a US Navy-issue pea coat from the early 1960s, which I got out just now to look at. I do not see any hint of pad-stitching on the undersides, but both lapels roll out beautifully and want to do so. When I run my fingers along the area of the roll line, I'm pretty sure I can feel the outline of taping, too. Without taking the jacket apart, it's hard to be sure, but I'd bet that a little bit of shaping was in fact built in there via taping and maybe an early fusible interfacing. It could not have been much, though, because the fronts can be buttoned closed under the neck without any rippling where the roll line would be.

norasroom
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norasroom
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 12/20/09 7:38 PM

Thank you, Elona, for your thoughtful answer; this is exactly what I needed to know. Now I'm thinking I may use some fusible stay tape in conjunction with my fusible interfacing to provide a little shaping to the roll line. Maybe a second layer of interfacing in the lapel area as well? I'll play with some scraps and see what that does.

Thanks again!

Meg

gehrtm
gehrtm
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Date: 6/13/12 10:58 PM

Can I ask where you got this pattern? My twelve year-old son is wanting to make a pea coat for the, "Make It With Wool" contest but we aren't having any luck finding a pattern for him.

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