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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > adding a chiffon overlay...need some tips!!!

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adding a chiffon overlay...need some tips!!!
callieann
callieann
Advanced Beginner
MN USA
Member since 1/4/10
Posts: 10
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Date: 1/4/10 9:56 AM

Hi all!!
I'm new here, as you can probably see. This seemed like the best place to look for advice when it comes to my sewing projects, so here I am!!
Here's where I need some help...I'm making a bridesmaid dress using Simplicity 3823 pattern. I'm using crepe back satin, and want to add a chiffon overlay. The pattern does not call for an overlay, but the bride likes the flowy look that it adds, so I'm going to attempt to do it. I've never worked with chiffon before, so I'm looking for any advice on how to handle it (cutting, sewing, etc.), how to approach the overlay for the skirt, and any other advice would be much appreciated!! Thanks!!

candicer
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candicer
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GA USA
Member since 9/26/07
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Date: 1/4/10 10:29 AM

Hi callieann! I hope my advise here helps! I just finished a dress with the same fabrics so I feel like I have fresh advice. First - both fabrics can be a bit slippery towork with. Fortunately - your pattern calls for more/smaller pieces than the one I did so it should be easier for you! Most important - use a rotary cutter. Do not pin your fabric (the chiffon atleast) - use weights. If you don't have fabric weights you can use cans of tuna fish or other smallish but weighty items to hold the pattern down on your fabric. After cutting out your fabric, you will need to sew the 2 fabrics together for each pattern piece, around the edges- inside the seam line (at about 3/8 " from edge). However, with the skirt pieces, sew the chiffon skirt and crepe skirt seperately, then attach them together at the waistline, before gathering. This keeps the chiffon free to flow on it's own. Truelly - with chiffon, the most important point is in the laying out of the fabric and cutting it. It can be so difficult to work with. Just make sure it is flat (no ripples or bumps) and that the pattern is layed out on grain. Oh - also - let the dress hang for a day before hemming.The chiffon has a tendency to stretch a bit.
Hope I haven't forgotten anything, and if you have any more questions -just ask! Good luck - and post pics for us to see the finished piece!

tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
Intermediate
BC CANADA
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In reply to callieann


Date: 1/4/10 10:54 AM

Welcome callieann - there are several good threads here about working with chiffon and probably some stuff in the tips and techniques area as well. Starching your fabric can make it much easier to work with and wash away wonder tape and/or washable paper glue can help keep your fabric behaving better as well. Good luck and let us know how the finished project works out.

------
http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

callieann
callieann
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MN USA
Member since 1/4/10
Posts: 10
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Date: 1/15/10 4:34 PM

Thank you both for the advice...I really appreciate it!! I'm going to wait a little bit to start on this project, see how I do losing weight before this wedding. I also wanted to find a 'warm-up' project to do. I haven't done any sewing since Halloween costumes, and don't really feel like jumping right into this. Thinking about doing a christening gown for my new baby girl, or maybe an Easter dress for me. We'll see. Definitely check back for updates on this project!! I'm pretty excited about it!!

Cowtown Karen
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Cowtown Karen  Friend of PR
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TX USA
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In reply to callieann


Date: 1/15/10 7:50 PM

Hi, callieann,

Candicer posted some great advice.

I would add that you will need to do French seams. It helps greatly, I think, to hand-baste before you machine-stitch, because chiffon can stretch when you machine-stitch those side seams (because they're usually on the bias).

Also keep in mind that needle holes can be a problem if you have to remove stitches.

When it comes time to hem after you have let the dress hang as Candicer said, make sure your hem is very narrow. You do this by turning up the hem about 1/4" or so, stitching close to the edge, trimming the excess, then turning up the hem again as narrowly as you can and then stitching over your previous stitching.

Happy sewing!
Karen

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Shop: FancifulFabrics.etsy.com
Blog: fancifulsewing.wordpress.com

callieann
callieann
Advanced Beginner
MN USA
Member since 1/4/10
Posts: 10
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Date: 1/18/10 11:50 AM

Ok...here's another question for you all. Is it possible to put the top of Simplicity 2442 onto the skirt of Simplicity 3823? The top of 2442 is the style halter I've been looking for, but I like the full skirt on 3823. Is this a doable thing? If so, any tips or suggestions on making it work?

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