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puckering darts
blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
Intermediate
Alabama USA
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Date: 2/20/10 7:54 PM

I just made a skirt that I have made before, S2605.
This time, I added a two inch waist band to the top and this is making the darts in the back fall a little lower. The very bottom of each dart is poking out a little . I pressed them very well and it is a little better, but the pucker is still there. Do you think I need to shorten the darts a little so that they don't fall as far down on my hips?

Elona
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In reply to blessedtosew


Date: 2/20/10 8:07 PM

Hmmmm. Darts should end just before they get to the full-ish area of the body they're supposed to accommodate. If yours are too long, that could be the problem. And some fabrics take darts more easily than others. However, it might also be a matter of needing to taper the dart more gradually. In general, the last two or three stitches of the dart point should be right on the fold, just picking up a thread or so, before you stitch off the edge. Then avoid pulling the thread tight when you tie it off. Often, these two steps will cure a pucker in that region.
-- Edited on 2/20/10 8:08 PM --

blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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In reply to Elona


Date: 2/21/10 12:21 PM

Quote: Elona
Hmmmm. Darts should end just before they get to the full-ish area of the body they're supposed to accommodate. If yours are too long, that could be the problem. And some fabrics take darts more easily than others. However, it might also be a matter of needing to taper the dart more gradually. In general, the last two or three stitches of the dart point should be right on the fold, just picking up a thread or so, before you stitch off the edge. Then avoid pulling the thread tight when you tie it off. Often, these two steps will cure a pucker in that region.
-- Edited on 2/20/10 8:08 PM --

Thanks. I will try the two or three stitches on the fold.
Tom P
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In reply to blessedtosew


Date: 2/22/10 4:49 PM

You probably need to shorten them if you've lowered the waist. Also, you need to sew darts so that they have a little curve at the point. The line of stitching should be parallel to fold at the end. If you have a perfectly straight dart stitching line crossing a perfectly straight fold, then you get a cone on top of a cylinder. In most fabrics, the stitching or fabric gives a little and smooths it out. In heavy or stiff fabrics, or suede or leather, or if the dart is really wide or short, then you can get a pucker at the dart point.

JEF
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Subject: Topic moved Date: 2/22/10 10:20 PM

This topic has been moved from Fitting Woes to Sewing Techniques and Tips

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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In reply to blessedtosew


Date: 2/23/10 8:22 AM

At a recent sewing event, a lady showed me an alternate way for pressing darts that resulted in no puckers/bubbles. She suggested that I place the dart on the curviest part of the ham and hover the iron over the dart with lots of steam. I've always used a ham to press my darts, but not in this way. When I compared the results of both newly pressed darts (one done the old way and the other done with her method), there was definitely a difference. I'll try to update this post with pictures later this week.

Nancy K
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In reply to blessedtosew


Date: 2/23/10 10:29 AM

Generally if there is a bubble at the end of a dart it is too short. The best way to sew a dart is to make sure that the sewing line is perpendicular to the front edge of your sewing machine. This will ensure that you sew those few last stitches right off the end of the fabric. Secondly, make the last 1" in a smaller stitch, 1.5 is good. When I get to the end I lift the presser foot and needle and sew a couple of stitches about an 1" back from the tip to secure the thread ends. Always press the dart over a ham and lift and press, never slide the iron along or you risk stretching the dart end. To keep the dart from showing on the front, either put a piece of brown paper under the dart edge, or an envelope works well.
-- Edited on 2/23/10 10:30 AM --

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blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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Date: 2/23/10 4:56 PM

Thanks so much everyone for those suggestions.

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