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Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > "Betty Haynes dress" from White Christmas ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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"Betty Haynes dress" from White Christmas
megplebani

megplebani
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Date: 3/12/10 10:47 AM

I love, love, LOVE, the black velvet gown that Rosemary Clooney wears in White Christmas during her "Love didn't do right by me" performance. Here is a So-so picture but it's all I could find. I suggest youtubing the performance to see the entire gown in action! I believe Edith Head designed the gown and personally, I think the neckline is the highlight of that gown (in addition to the rhinestone "butt pin" ).

Thus, in an effort to challenge myself, I want to recreate that dress. I'm going on a cruise in four months and I think if I can make the dress in a different color, non-velvet fabric for the formal night, it will be stunning. I'm thinking a rich purple or deep ocean blue dupioni maybe...??

I'm starting with Vogue 2931 to get the basic mermaid style (although I'm shortening the train and adjusting for my 5'1 frame). I'm merging the lower pieces of that pattern with the bust and back pieces of Vogue 2964 to give me a starting place.

Obviously the actual neckline needs to be redrafted to create the jagged look. That part is easy enough between my tracing paper and draping on my dress form. But how would I stabilize it? Just twill tape? That seems like it would be too bulky. I'd be hesitant to also use a sew-in interfacing also, because wouldn't it make the entire neckline too stiff? Obviously being VERY much so on the bias in so many different ways, the neckline needs to be stabilized somehow.

Any suggestions would be very welcome

------
Megan
Owner, La Robe Couture

Jatman
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In reply to megplebani


Date: 3/12/10 11:28 AM

Oh, how exciting! Will you keep us posted as to how it's coming? White Christmas is one of my all time favorite movies - love the clothes! I don't have to look this gown up as I have seen the movie so many times I remember it! I read somewhere (and where I don't remember) that the 'butt pin' was an after thought. I can't remember if it started out on the front of the gown or came from another costume but letting the neckline speak for itself in the front and highlighting the back made both views of this gown really memorable.

You picked a good starting point. This will be stunning in either color you have picked!

JT

EleanorSews
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Subject: Betty Haynes dress from White Christmas Date: 3/12/10 11:32 AM

I think you could stabilize the neckline with a lightweight interfacing that extended into the seam line. In fact, it would probably be better to do so because twill tape would only stabilize the edges and that is likely not to be sufficient.

You might want to test a few different options to see what provides the desired effect.

As for color, either would work. This gown has always been a favorite of mine.
-- Edited on 3/12/10 11:33 AM --

------
"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

jannw
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In reply to megplebani


Date: 3/12/10 12:34 PM

Doesn't the neckline need to be somewhat stiff in order to preserve the points on the jagged edge? I'm thinking that if you bent over or sideways, the points might crumple otherwise...

It is a beautiful dress and I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with..

------
2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012-26 January
5yds..
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

Jatman
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In reply to megplebani


Date: 3/12/10 12:42 PM

I can't get it to enlarge but here is a full view from her website:
and up close:

Unfortunately, no 'butt pin' shot!

JT

fwbean472
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Subject: Betty Haynes dress from White Christmas Date: 3/12/10 5:52 PM

I love that dress! White Christmas is my favorite Christmas movie. I love Danny Kaye, too. I can't wait to see your version of the dress.

Alathia

cmarie12
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Date: 3/12/10 7:24 PM

At first I thought you meant the dress from the number Sisters...but this one is beautiful too! Good luck with getting your version made!

------
Carolyn
My blog: http://sewingfantaticdiary.blogspot.com/
"I've always maintained that freedom of speech does not mean freedom from responsibility. Choose your words carefully ~ Susan”

SewPaula
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In reply to megplebani


Date: 3/12/10 8:02 PM

oh wow, I love that dress and the movie. I can't wait to see your progress on it.

------
Paula
sewpaula.blogspot.com
If I were a sewing machine, all I would have to do is lift up my foot and all my tension would be gone.

nancy2001
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Subject: Betty Haynes dress from White Christmas Date: 3/12/10 8:17 PM

Rosemary Clooney looked beautiful in White Christmas, and your dress will be spectacular. I agree that you should interface the neckline.

------
The essence of life is statistical improbability on a colossal scale.
Richard Dawkins

megplebani

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Date: 3/15/10 11:29 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions and support! I spent the better part of yesterday pinning (and repinning and drawing and cutting and taping) the pattern pieces from from the two patterns together, and then shaping the neckline. I'll edit the post tonight to add photos. I think I spent two hours watching the video of her song on YouTube, pausing it, and then trying to redraft the neckline on the pattern pieces based off of the video. However, I think I finally got it. (again, pictures are forthcoming).

So based off of suggestions, I'm definitely going to interface the neckline. Using twill tape would be way too bulky around some of the curves.

Now how about boning? My gut is telling me to do a corselette (a la Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture book), even though the gown isn't strapless. This would accent the hourglass figure of the gown, and wouldn't cause any bulkiness due to the bones in the high hip area. Plus it would give additional support to the neckline to prevent any stress from the weight of the gown. However...I'm used to using a corselette on a strapless gown. How would it attach to the neckline area? Or is there another way to have the boning structure and waist stay without it appearing bulky from the outside of the dress?

My next challenge afterwards will be to factor in the zipper. I think I might need to put a side-seam zipper in, because I think a back zipper would interfere too much with the neckline. I'm not a big fan of side zippers though (can't stand seeing the dangly zipper pull). The neckline doesn't come to an exact V in the back, there is a slight upward point where the top of the zipper would be, so it would look too bulky with the zipper pull up there. Unless I inverted it? Kept the neckline smooth and only opened the waist-section of the dress up with the zipper? How would that work with the corselette then??

So many questions! Thanks for your help.

------
Megan
Owner, La Robe Couture

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