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Forum > Fitting Woes > Belly fit on Pants ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Belly fit on Pants
I took out 4.5 inches, do I need darts?
newmama
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newmama  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/18/10 11:33 AM

I am making a muslin for a pair of wide-leg pants. I ended up taking 4 1/2" out of the center front, sewing the seam 2 1/4" deeper at the top and tapering towards the crotch. It feels nice on, but I'm getting wrinkles pointing towards my post-baby tummy.
photo
I've tried pulling up in the center and pinching more out, and those seem to make it worse. My thought is that this is happening, not because it's tight, but because I took all of the excess out at the center front seam (I'm new to fitting). It certainly doesn't feel too snug at my tummy. Would letting it out some at the CF and taking some of the excess back up in darts work? Am I way off?

Also, the back seems to fit fine, I didn't touch anything back there. Except I'm getting a wrinkles in the center back of the yoke, which is right at the hollow of my back (can't get a good photo, too much twisting/turning). Would a dart, or removing a wedge work there? I don't know if I have a swayback or not, but I have had fabric puddle above my bootie like some people have described. I think it's not so much my back as my protruding rear :)

I have tried looking in a few books, but I just don't have a good eye for this myself yet and was hoping for some feedback.
Thanks so much!

------
angie
http://danikate-designs.blogspot.com/

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/18/10 1:52 PM

Make a smaller size.

Restart06
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Date: 3/18/10 2:34 PM

darts can work wonders...maybe one on each side.

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There is no easy way! quote from my Grandfather
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louann
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In reply to newmama


Date: 3/18/10 2:35 PM

Taking over 4 inches from the front is a lot. You probably needed to distribute the excess more evenly around the pants. So a smaller size may be the best option.

To try to save what you have, I recommend removing the waistband and pinning in darts. Try pinning them in different places like near the front seam and towards the sides to see what works best for you. You may just need one on each side, but be flexible and try pinning more to see if it helps.

Nancy

lca
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Date: 3/18/10 4:11 PM

I would also suggest that after you remove the waistband, open up the center front a few inches and drape it to fit your tummy. Smooth the front until the wrinkles are gone. You will be able to tell if you need to add some back to the center front and if you need take the excess out as darts. You may have to reposition your waistband.
-- Edited on 3/18/10 4:19 PM --

newmama
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Date: 3/18/10 5:20 PM

Thanks all for the suggestions!

I am going to try removing the waistband, letting out the center front some and playing with the drape/darts to see what works.

I don't know if a smaller size would work, since the pants fit my backside and crotch really nicely and the side seams lay vertically along my leg. Most of my size is in my booty. If I moved to a smaller size, wouldn't that cause the back to fit differently and the side seams to lay differently? Plus I would have to let it out at my hips. I thought maybe grading in to a smaller size waist might work, but I have a high, round bottom, so I still need the room in the back. Any further thoughts?

------
angie
http://danikate-designs.blogspot.com/

Michelle T

Michelle T
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In reply to newmama


Date: 3/18/10 5:39 PM

Make a smaller size in the front and a larger one in the back.

I often have to do the opposite.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

newmama
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newmama  Friend of PR
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In reply to Michelle T


Date: 3/18/10 5:58 PM

Thanks for this idea! Do you have to make any other changes to account for the differences?

------
angie
http://danikate-designs.blogspot.com/

Michelle T

Michelle T
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In reply to newmama


Date: 3/18/10 7:44 PM

My shape is very different to yours, so any changes I make would not apply to you.

Looking at your original photo, I think part of the reason you have those drag lines is that you put the top of the slacks off grain when you took all the excess from CF only.

If you had removed equal amounts from CF and the front side seams, your grain line would be right and the fabric would not be pulling.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

petro
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Date: 3/20/10 9:12 AM

I agree with Michelle T that taking the whole reduction from the CF is responsible for much of the problem. Do the side seams lie vertically ( not pulled to the front or back?) . Is it a shaped waistband?

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